ATF cooler

[Apache]

Thinking of fitting one when I change my fluid because when I swapped the rad earlier this year I wasn't too impressed with the standard 'in the rad' type.

Is this type sufficient?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Transmission-O...QQcmdZViewItem

Or should I go for a rad type such as something similar to this?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/19-ROW-OIL-COO...QQcmdZViewItem

Looking from the top of the rad, which end is the flow and which is the return?

[jotto]

I can't get ebay at the moment .But I used a oil cooler rad for a MGB on my 2.4, theres a guy on ebay sells them for about £30.

[Apache]

Oddly enough, I've just spotted an 8 row one which looks like it may do the job. Its pretty cheap too!

Did you leave the water rad one in the circuit? I suppose if nothing else, it increases the quantity of circulating fluid which has to be a good thing.

[jotto]

I replaced the auto rad with a manual one and put the oil cooler in seemed to work well on the 2.4.
When I have a bit more cash I will do the same on my 3.0. Takes the heat from the transmision out of the rad and gives a tiny bit more water to keep the engine cool plus there is no oil cooler pipes getting in the way of the coolant flow

[Tallyman]

When I was sourcing mine I was told a 13 row cooler was OK if you left it in circuit with the original but if using only the new cooler on its own, then a 19 row gave much better cooling. If you're using an 8 row then I'd suggest definitely using it in circuit with the original and putting the new one in line before the original to cool the fluid before it gets to the original.

[Apache]

Maybe I ought to look for a bigger one then. I'd rather not leave the original in circuit to be honest. Wish I'd fitted a 'manual' rad too. That ATF cooler does look like it would restrict the water flow.

[TonyN]

Maybe I ought to look for a bigger one then. I'd rather not leave the original in circuit to be honest. Wish I'd fitted a 'manual' rad too. That ATF cooler does look like it would restrict the water flow.

Not enough to matter, the look at how much water flow you'll get through a open thermostat, it's less gap than out the lower rad outlet. So I wouldn't worry to much.

I'd keep the in rad cooler if there is nothing wrong with the rad, that way if you get to big a cooler, the warm engine coolant will reheat the ATF to working temperature if its actually to cool.

Run the new cooler before the in rad cooler, this will take any extreme heat out of the AFT fluid when your towing before it goes into the rad, so it won't overheat the coolant leaving the rad to go into the engine.

If I'm doing away with the in rad cooler, I fit one of these in front of the main rad...

http://www.bmracing.com/index.php?id...cat=28&pid=282

If your keeping the in rad cooler and just want a auxillery to help out then towing, the narrower coolers people get off ebay fitted in the bumper slots work fine.

[The Mighty WAH]

Kenlowe Transmission Cooler

Fitted a Kenlowe tranny cooler last weekend as my 3.0 gets a bit hot under certain towing conditions.
Complete kit is just over £100 delivered. Has all the necessary bits for mounting in various positions, including plenty of new hose, so I renewed all the hoses at the same time. Their website gives all the details.
They recommend that this cooler is run in series with the standard 'rad. in a rad' unless there is a known problem with this.
After much 'faffing' around making my mind up where to put it to get the best airflow I simply tyewrapped it to the grill in the lower plastic skirt. This is in clear air and has a good space behind it to allow the air to escape.
Needless to say I will not know the real benefit until we eventually get some summer weather.
Am towing to the MGP at Donnington next month so a good drag across the A14 and up the M1 should see if it was worth the effort.

Colin