Power steering pump

[lummypieuk]

I have stripped down my p/s pump 60050 for reconditioning and was wondering if anyone knows the best way of finding where the seals, etc are ment to be fitted. When I took it apart there seemed to be some missing, funnily enough it was leaking. Any ideas or diagrams/pictures would be a godsent. Also whether there is ment to be any filters near the pump that I can't seem to locate.

All help would be good

Cheers

Chris Buller

[Uplander]

I have stripped down my p/s pump 60050 for reconditioning and was wondering if anyone knows the best way of finding where the seals, etc are ment to be fitted. When I took it apart there seemed to be some missing, funnily enough it was leaking. Any ideas or diagrams/pictures would be a godsent. Also whether there is ment to be any filters near the pump that I can't seem to locate.

All help would be good

Cheers

Chris Buller

Hi,
Well done, not many bother to try to fix these, usually a FEU (factory exchange unit) but fixing is best way to discover how things work..most economic option.
AFAIK there are about five different sized O rings along the vane pump shaft and a bearing * next to a snap ring / drive gear. There is yet another O ring in the port leading from the pressure union BUT careful this is spring loaded (unless spring is knackered o'course) I dont remember any filters as such, but there are over twenty components over the length or is it width / or the unit, so you need a diagram if anyone else has one, please ..The bearing * prolly has code stamped on it for identification..

Peter

[lummypieuk]

Fixed it

Well the pump is now reconditioned and is no longer leaking. I have also replaced the bolt on the adjustment for the drive belt (there wasn't one fitted) correctly adjusted that, refilled the reservoir several times after operation and it works beautifully. Cheers for all your help. I'd rather spend 25 quid reconditioning the pump than 150 quid on one that is already recon'd. At least you know it's been done properly.

Cheers buddy,

Chris

Hi,
Well done, not many bother to try to fix these, usually a FEU (factory exchange unit) but fixing is best way to discover how things work..most economic option.
AFAIK there are about five different sized O rings along the vane pump shaft and a bearing * next to a snap ring / drive gear. There is yet another O ring in the port leading from the pressure union BUT careful this is spring loaded (unless spring is knackered o'course) I dont remember any filters as such, but there are over twenty components over the length or is it width / or the unit, so you need a diagram if anyone else has one, please ..The bearing * prolly has code stamped on it for identification..

Peter

[DaveD]

That would have been a good one to do a write up on......
Where did you get seal kit from?
Any pics?

[lummypieuk]

That would have been a good one to do a write up on......
Where did you get seal kit from?
Any pics?

Hi Guys, I recently replaced my power steering pump internal seals for the 1KZ-TE engine, ($57 for the kit from Toyota) the pump had been leaking for years and was caked in an oily dusty crust. The leaking oil will be a red colour, you will need to use Dexron 2 or 3 for the job. You first need to remove the bash plate to access the lower pump nut , I found this the best way to remove and replace the pump was from under the vehicle. Clean the pump as best you can before removing it as you don’t want dirt to get into the timing case area. You then need to remove the two hoses from the pump, I found it best to remove the suction line that runs from the power steering fluid reservoir first, (don’t forget to place the oil catcher can under the vehicle) this gives you better access to be able to remove the pressure line hose, this is connected to the pump body with a large union nut and bolt, this nut size is exactly 7/8ths size so an open ended spanner will fit on it if you have trouble with the hose coming out of the union nut, its very awkward if the hose will not free itself from the union nut, you may need to give it a squirt of penetrene first. In fact I couldn't remove the bolt from the nut, I could only undo the union nut from the PS pump body. I then had to lower the pump from the engine block with the hose still attached and undo it from under the vehicle , I needed the 7/8ths spanner and the extra long handled socket to get it to undo, it was incredibly tight, this is the best way to do it if the bolt won't come out of the union nut. As I have dual batteries I had to totally disconnect the positive battery lead from the battery that runs to the starter motor so I'd have the room to get the pump (with the hose attached) out of the engine bay area and under the vehicle.

Once this is done you can then undo the two nuts securing the pump to the engine you will need a 12mm open ender and a ring spanner, its very fiddly and slow work as you don’t have much room to undo the nuts, the shorter the spanner the better. Once this is completed you can work from under the vehicle to remove the pump from the engine block.

Give it a thorough clean with petrol or degreaser, a pressure wash will help get it clean fast. Work on the pump on a very clean and dry surface, working at the flat plate end of the pump you will need to remove the big wire circlip, I used a small flat screw driver to pry it out, once removed I then laid the pump on its back (the flat side) and gave it a good whack down on the bench, this freed up the rear housing plate causing it to fall out, (after a few good slams) a wave washer is located directly behind this housing plate (curved side faces into pump), under the wave washer is the end plate . Make sure that you take care to ensure that all the parts are replaced back in the correct order. Located in the rim of the rear housing plate and end plate is an O ring which must be replaced, its likely that these are the main culprits of all the leaking oil, gently pry out the old O rings with a flat screwdriver and replace them. I used a tiny bit of new PS fluid when fitting the new O rings, this will aid in the reinstallation of the new O ring seals inside the PS body.

I then removed the vanes and rotor, I cleaned all the internal parts including the entire inside of the PS body with unleaded petrol, I then rinsed them off in Methylated spirits to ensure they were perfectly clean and to remove any water from within the pump body (from the pressure cleaning, metho displaces water droplets).
This is now the opportunity to check the operation of the bearing which is located on the main shaft that has the drive gear attached, if there is no binding or rough feel when you turn the shaft or if no oil is evidently leaking from this section of the pump then don’t bother removing the shaft from the pump body, you will need a specialised puller or a bearing press for this task. (I found trying to remove the front plate and pins extremely difficult, in fact I didn’t have to as the bearing and O ring seals were not leaking at this end anyway.)

Carefully replace all the parts as you found them originally, take special note of the vanes, on one edge they have a flat side, and the other side has a slightly rounded edge, the round edge faces outwards.

Place small amounts of PS fluid on these parts when you refit them, this will aid in lubrication on first start up of the engine. Refit the new small O ring under the union nut, remove and clean this entire part anyway, there is a spring and a control valve under the union nut too.
Renew the O ring that is found at the end of the suction hose, this fits into the body of the PS pump and is held on with two small bolts.

Refit the pump back onto the engine block, you may need to wiggle the pump into place to get the drive gear to mesh on with the drive wheel on the timing gear, please note that there is a large O ring seal that fits into the front of the pump (where the shaft comes out) it is slightly recessed into the PS body and should be a blue colour, the seal kit that comes from Toyota for the pump did not have a new O ring seal to replace this one, fortunately mine was OK, but I suggest that you replace this, this will be another part to order though.
Bolt everything back on nice and tight, pressure line union bolt, (this has two copper washers, make sure their in good condition too) the torque wrench settings should be 44nm for the union bolt & nut, pump mounting nuts 39nm.
I removed the PS reservoir and gave it a clean out with Petrol and a rinse with metho (allow it time to dry off), then refit and fill up the reservoir. Once everything is ready to go, jack the front wheels up of the ground, with the engine off, slowly turn the front wheels from lock to lock a couple of times, check the fluid level and top up if needed, start the engine and repeat the process going slowly from lock to lock a few more times, stop the engine and top up the PS reservoir again, it will be quite bubbly/foamy for some time, Lower the vehicle and take for a test drive, if its handling strangely it probably needs more fluid in the reservoir. Check for leaks, if all OK then you've done well, and saved yourself a a wad of cash, check the PS fluid level the next day too, when all the bubbles have had time to dissipate.

REPCO quoted me $450 for a change over only pump, this meant taking my pump to them and then they send it to the PS company who reco's it and returns it a day later, what a ****** rip off when you see how much the reco kits are. If would like an exploded diagram for the 1KZ-TE PS pump then you'll find it in the Gregory’s workshop manual No 311 Prado and Hilux Supplement, in fact this manual is ideal for everyone who has a 1KZ-TE turbo diesel engine.

Good Luck with it all ....Cheers....Nimzee
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1994 3.0 Litre Turbo, SSR-X Limited, 4sp Auto diesel, boost adjust, TJM Bull Bar and 8000lb Magnum winch, Safari Snorkel, Narva Spotties, 3" taper tuned exhaust, Pedder heavy duty shocks, Alloy side steps, BFG All Terrains.


I found this on an australian site, it's pretty good. I did get the recon kit from Toyota and it cost 25 quid. I think the job is too simple for photo's as the thing can only really be put together again in the same orientation that it came apart. Just make sure that you give the steering a good playing with after everytime you refill it. You'll be suprised how much fluid that it'll take.