Replacing disks on 3rd Gen

[Johnny]

Looking to replace pads and disks next weekend due to steering vibration on braking. Can the caliper be moved out of the way without disconnecting the brake pipes ? Have read other threads, well most of them, and I will check for siezed pistons.

The Chilton Toyota Manual for 4Runner suggests you can.

All other tips most wellcome

Ta, Johnny.

[da SLUG man]

yeah, just 2 (17mm i think) bolts on back of calipers... then it just slides off the disc...

think the disc just comes straight off, no pesky screw to mash up!

easy job, but remember cos they're 4 pots the pistons are a pain to push back unless you've got 3 hands and 5 clamps!

[marky]

Never press the BRAKE PEDAL while its off the disks. As you will have big trouble on your hands.

[Rob]

easy job, but remember cos they're 4 pots the pistons are a pain to push back unless you've got 3 hands and 5 clamps!

That's why you leave one pad in while you do the opposite pistons

[da SLUG man]

That's why you leave one pad in while you do the opposite pistons

nah, leave both pads in till pistons are back!... still a pain in the ass if you're doing your mates with no tools, in the rain!

[Uplander]

brakes pads / roters swop.

Ok yer gettin good advice here from these guys.... Alus remember to clean (with spec brake cleaner spray preferably) the edges of the proud pistons before you gently -yeah very gently push them back into the caliper/s -otherwise all sorts of "crap" will poss get into the seals (not a gud thing), AND remember to check the master cylinder brake fluid level, cos this proceedure will inevitably push back some fluid out of the brake line into the master cylinder maybe even causing it to overflow almost - so watch it - especially if you or someone else has recently re-filled the reservoir. If your going to get a micrometer and check the thickness of the discs (rotors) at various points around the circumference, which leads you to want (read need) to change the disc, also do the other side too ie re-new them in pairs. When you take the calipers off, hang them up with a short length of old wire to the coil spring. This avoids any stress of the flexy hose/s, whilst you are doing the next part of the job. When you remove the discs, always ensure by cleaning properly the face on the axle - that the mating surface is really clean and totally free of any blemishes, if you forget you run the risk of poor or incorrect alignment with the new disc getting junked in a very few thousand miles and maybe a nasty shock for you...NO as said this job is a d-i-y fix if you know what to do and when to do it... For instance, how long has the brake fluid been in the car ? Most fluid ( apart from synthetic stuff) is hygroscopic - ie it is invaded by tiny particles of moisture which doesnt compress at the same pressure and also corrodes the system over time, so if you are changing discs, pads, and can get hold of a one person brake bleeding kit or a vacuum pump then renew the fluid as well...Then all you have to consider is the plumbing.....But that's a story for another night...Gud Luk, you should notice a big improvement to the car's braking ability after all this eh ?

Uplander

[kitesurf_phil]

Did my brake pads yesterday and tied the callipers up out of the way as I was changing the CV boots at the same time. If you disconnect the track rod ends too you can remove the bracket that holds the flexible brake line and tie the callipers right out of the way.


As usual I got into the job and realised I didn't have my camera handy. DOH!

[Rob]

nah, leave both pads in till pistons are back!... still a pain in the ass if you're doing your mates with no tools, in the rain!

uhh, ok! Well i didn't. will see if it makes it any easier next time....

[da SLUG man]

oh yeah, make sure you take off the fluid filler cap!!... else it wil squirt out the breather hole all over your paintwork!

[InfraRed]

Yup I did notice, manged to wash it off before any damage occurred though.

[Johnny]

Job Done !!

Had no real problems apart from driver side disk, was a bit sticky. A tap all around with a hammer soon loosened it.

Had to undo clamp for brake pipe where the ridged pipe connects to the flexible pipe to allow the caliper to be pushed out of the way.

Tools required, 2.5 ton trolley jack, axle stand, copper slip, deep socket for lower caliper bolt (Brake pipe limits access) 17mm (I think) Syringe to remove some brake fluid, a friend to give you a hand and a pair of adjustable plumbers pliers to squeeze the pistons back in.

My disks and pads all looked ok. The pistons were a little bit sticky so with the calipers still on the disk we removed one pad at a time and freed each of by firstly pushing the brake pedal in and seeing which one stuck, then using the pad sideways to block the good piston and pressing on the brake pedal to force the other piston out.

Took us about 2-3 hours and I am not a mechanic.

My Surf has no steering vibration anymore and the braking is much, much better.

Dealer quoted £330 for this job, cost me £100 for the bits. Labour was free.

Important things not to forget,

1- remove cap to brake fluid reservoir and take some out, I did not have to put any back either.

2- Don't press brake pedal with calipers off disks. Pistons come out all the way if not carefull.


Thanks for all the info , you've saved me from cocking it up!!

Johhny.