lose wheel washers?

[Ste00]

i dunno... he jacked it up and tried to move the wheel and it wouldnt but i would think as u do that it wouldnt be clamped but it seemed pretty solid...

i dunno might try another tire place later...

[Morr]

took it to natinol tires and they checked it for free and said it was fine,

If the washers are loose it certainly does not sound fine!

with 1mm of play on each washer on ever nut, you should be able to rock the wheel when the vehicle is raised on jacks, ie slide the wheel in/out within the 1mm gap. Defiantly not good.

As kitesurf_phil mentions, a prior member had a Surf with a similar situation, but in her case the over-torqued the nuts until the gap was eliminated, this put excessive load on the studs which later failed causing it to loose a wheel while driving.

If national tyres only checked the nuts for tightness and declared it OK, than they did not check it correctly.



**edit** Tony, ya got in ahead of me again

[Ste00]

3 guys there checked it, tho one dint realise that the washer being able to move might actually mean the wheel could move

i am gonna take it into old colwyn now to another tire place... see if i can get another free check lol

[Sparky]

is it possible that the nuts are for a different alloy wheel and that they are long with a taper which is actualy wolding the wheel on a taper but leaving a gap at the wheel face?
take one nut off and see if you can tell if there is a definate contact point between wheel and nut.

[Morr]

is it possible that the nuts are for a different alloy wheel and that they are long with a taper which is actualy wolding the wheel on a taper but leaving a gap at the wheel face?
take one nut off and see if you can tell if there is a definate contact point between wheel and nut.

No harm having a look, I have seen ford wheel nuts as you describe, having a taper and a washer, altough on those the washer was also tapered and the taper on the nut did nothing, the washer still took the load. These nuts look as tho the washer is flat rather than tapered.
I still reckon the most likely scenario is the sleeve portion of the nut is too long for the rim as described above.

[Ste00]

right took it to central tires... they looked at it (didnt jack it or take a nut off) and said not to drive it... drove it to were i got it from they drove it looked at it said it was fine... took it too toyota they said they werent sure, took it to quick fit they took a nut off and pointed out its tapered (the nut not the washer) and that was holding the wheel on and that the washer was built into the nut so it could be for more than one wheel,

so basicly i have acepted that it is fine / given up lol,

[da SLUG man]

i'll have to take a pic of out wheel nut chart from work when i get back from hols.... explains the different types of wheelnuts and when to/not oil... how to tighten etc.

[seventh]

Sounds like a complete cock up to me..the taper part of the nut goes into the wheel to locate the the wheel hole centrally onto the nut. The washer attached to the nut MUST tighten against the wheel. There was never a nut designed with two fitments in mind!! To accept that it is ok is ridiculous and toyota should be able to check what the original fitment is from the vin. The wheels are what is known as spigot mounted..ie they sit over a cental boss on the hub. This can make them difficult to remove due to being tight on the spigot. Hence, movement between wheel and hub is not always noticable even with incorrect nuts fitted. As the nuts are cap nuts, they are tightening inside the cap before reaching the wheel face and tightening the wheel. The torque setting is being reached because of this and not because the wheel is being tightened correctly. I suggest you get toyota to check again and not just assume the wheels are "tight" because the nuts are..

[seventh]

Another thought on this is.. have wheel spacers been fitted because there are some on the market which have wheel mounting studs that are too long and have to be cut to the correct length. Not many people do this very well as it entails cutting 24 wheel studs accurately with a hacksaw..!! Very often different nuts are sourced to get over the problem..Just a thought, this one..

[The Hornet]

This thread is over 2 years old. He must have fixed it by now.

[TonyN]

This thread is over 2 years old. He must have fixed it by now.

[TonyN]

The wheels are what is known as spigot mounted..ie they sit over a cental boss on the hub.

Actually, Toyota alloys are centered on the sleeves on the wheel nuts, not the hole in the middle, if you have a wheel that seems impossible to balence properly, its probably because the hole in the middle isn't 100% centered and the tyre guy is using a cone on it, rather than mounting it on a plate with wheel nuts.

Normally its not an issue though.

[NiftyNev]

Actually, Toyota alloys are centered on the sleeves on the wheel nuts, not the hole in the middle

True. Another term used for this is Lug Centric and not Hub Centric as some are.

Nev

[Morr]

Actually, Toyota alloys are centered on the sleeves on the wheel nuts, ....

I thought this only applied to some Toyota alloys, eg 3rd Gen Surf, whilst others inc 2nd Gens and LandCruisers where of the more conventional hub-centric design???