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  • does this sound right?

    sorry if this is gonna get long winded, but i want to give you all the info now, as i feel that any advice will be needed, come morning !!

    couple of weeks ago, my beast did something unheard of, it didn't start! it was a cold morning, and i assumed it was a glowplug issue. the engine cranked over ok, and sounded as if wanted to fire, but wouldn't, so before i killed the batteries i called the AA. upon his arrival, he asked me to attempt a start. it took more turns than usual, but she did fire, at which point he became misty eyed as he commented on how lovely it sounded.

    ok, while he was there, he tested the batteries. this was done on what looked like a laptop. the batteries weren't isolated, and i cranked the engine with the imobiliser off, thus letting it turn over, without fuelling, the batteries checked out well, but the car had been ticking over. after a quick test on the glowplugs, he announced they were drawing the required voltage, no problem there.

    the diagnosis was this. before she started, he had noticed she was turning over erratically, as if the engine was dumping its compression every now and again, and i sort of know what he means. he said the sound was absent during the battery test, because the oil would now be sealing the rings. if it happened the next day, i should have it tested, well it didn't, so i left it at that.

    now, thats been bugging me. first thing in the morning, i turn it over a few times without the imobiliser, and it sounds just fine. hit the imobiliser, and it turns slowly, then spins faster, either at that point it catches, or slows, then picks up and fires. this morning was really cold, and i anticipated problems. radio off, heater off, then turn, sounds good, powerfull cranking, lights on dash bright. hit the imobiliser, wait for the plugs to heat, key off, let them heat again, hear the click, off, then on, and crank..sounds like the battery is really struggling, then spins like a whirling dervish, slows, then fires, clean as a whistle from the word go.

    thing is this.if my valve or valves are sticking, then oil circulation wouldn't improve things, right? if i've got a bad ring or bore on a 40 k motor, then wouldn't the compression loss be apparent on the first turns of the key, blowing a bit of blue out the rear in the process? then there is the question of why it always sounds at full compression when the imobiliser is off, but cranking without fuel? if it was a petrol motor, at the moment when the engine was cranking fast, i'd be shouting, "go on you bugger,go on, nearly" assuming the load coming of the engine was some sort of ignition going on, but i don't know if heavy diesels should sound like that, the AA didn't think they should, but then he had 10 seconds to diagnose the fault.

    the issue is this, if the consensus here is that lack of compression is the likely cause, i'll get it checked. if not, then its either battery, plugs or fuel, right? when the weather turned cold a few weeks back, i thought i was losing the rear window motor, it would hardly wind up, but now its ok, once the engine has run, is this pointing to a battery problem? is it that the extra load on the battery when the plugs are heating and the fuel pump is working showing the strain?

    tomorrow morning i'm going to have problems, its freezing like a good-un out there, and frankly i cannot afford to push the boat out, replacing both batteries and plugs, only to find i've got a compression issue, so need to take a reasonably sound gamble, if there is such a thing.

    i'll give you the symptoms again..spins fine and consistantly without dissarming the imobiliser, strong turns without fading over 9 or 10 turns. imobiliser off, glowplugs allowed time to really heat, then sounds almost dead for two turns, then normal, or even quicker, maybe back to normal before catching, but never really slow. one fired, no smoke, or not excessive, and never ever runs rough, always smooth and strong. then its ok for the rest of the day. sometimes takes 4 or 5 spins, but never a concearn. when i bought it a year or so ago, it started faster, usually one turn cycle would do it, so it has become more sluggish. any ideas??

  • #2
    I'd go to a reputable auto electrician and get them to do a battery load test. Basically they will put a low resistance across each battery with an ammeter in series and check that the batteries can deliver the oomph when required.

    I take it that you have checked that each cell has enough electrolite in it? Mine were a little low when I first got it so I topped up with de-ionised water/acid mix and she is now in her second winter without any (touch wood) problems so far.
    It could possibly be that your starter motor brushes are worn/damaged. There is a good write up on a DIY starter rebuild in the Tech Electrical section and it's relatively cheap.
    It's only a hobby!

    Comment


    • #3
      cheers kitesurf. funny enough, i was reading up on the starter motor repair kits just before reading your reply, so suitably genned up on that score. looks cheap, but fiddly, one for the pro's methinks. as for the battery cell level, sounds really dumb-arsed, but i hadn't even thought about it! my last battery in another vehicle, was one of those no maintanence jobs, so i plain forgot these need topping up, i'll look in the morning. if i remember right, the level needs to cover the metal bits, but not right full?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by mickey
        cheers kitesurf. funny enough, i was reading up on the starter motor repair kits just before reading your reply, so suitably genned up on that score. looks cheap, but fiddly, one for the pro's methinks. as for the battery cell level, sounds really dumb-arsed, but i hadn't even thought about it! my last battery in another vehicle, was one of those no maintanence jobs, so i plain forgot these need topping up, i'll look in the morning. if i remember right, the level needs to cover the metal bits, but not right full?
        Level of the electrolyte should be about 2mm above the plates.

        Does sound like a dying battery to me.

        Cheers

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by mickey
          cheers kitesurf. funny enough, i was reading up on the starter motor repair kits just before reading your reply, so suitably genned up on that score. looks cheap, but fiddly, one for the pro's methinks. as for the battery cell level, sounds really dumb-arsed, but i hadn't even thought about it! my last battery in another vehicle, was one of those no maintanence jobs, so i plain forgot these need topping up, i'll look in the morning. if i remember right, the level needs to cover the metal bits, but not right full?
          There will be a maximum mark on the side of the battery or just above each cell. Don't worry if you overfill by a little bit.
          It's only a hobby!

          Comment


          • #6
            checked the batteries first thing, and yes, the passenger side one, covered in jap writing, so assuming an origional was fine, levels all good. the driver side battery was low on cell one, and cell six..so, need to get to the motor store, will she start? she did, but only just. now topped the battery up, so hope thats done some good, tomorrow morning will tell. if its still reluctant, i'll replace both batteries, then failing that, i'll renew all the glowplugs, cant really afford it, but at least i know they'll be good for a while. thanks for the input so far..oooh, before i go, if anyone is inclined to answer a really basic question, one of the terminals is loose, can i put an ordinary ring spanner to it, or will it blow my cap off?

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by mickey
              checked the batteries first thing, and yes, the passenger side one, covered in jap writing, so assuming an origional was fine, levels all good. the driver side battery was low on cell one, and cell six..so, need to get to the motor store, will she start? she did, but only just. now topped the battery up, so hope thats done some good, tomorrow morning will tell. if its still reluctant, i'll replace both batteries, then failing that, i'll renew all the glowplugs, cant really afford it, but at least i know they'll be good for a while. thanks for the input so far..oooh, before i go, if anyone is inclined to answer a really basic question, one of the terminals is loose, can i put an ordinary ring spanner to it, or will it blow my cap off?
              Well a loose terminal will certainly not help your batteries charge properly.
              No problem using any form of spanner, just ensure that when working on the positive terminals you do not allow the spanner to contact any other part of the vehicle whilst it is also in contact with the terminal or its lead.
              Maurice
              Hilux Surf FAQ at www.hiluxsurf.eu

              Comment


              • #8
                well guys, done the top-up and tightened the terminal right up, then it was a question of waiting..really icy this morning, so was a little anxious, hardly dare turn the key, but we can stamp done and dusted on this thread, as the beast has been given a new lease of life, fired first turn, amazing..so, just to say thanks again, silly oversight on my behalf, but hey,the fifth emergency service missed it too!! anyway, i'm happy again now, cheers.

                Comment


                • #9
                  One other thing to look at to keep batteries working well. Take off each main battery connection in turn (thereby making sure you've always got power to the ECU etc) and thoroughly clean the terminal post and the inside of the connector. If you can get them bright & shiney more the better. Wire wool will work well on both or try sandpaper or emery cloth. Once clean, coat the terminal with vasaline and clamp connector back on. That should ensure good contact and allow full voltage to the starter etc and also full recharge from the alternator.

                  I had this problem years ago on an old MG1300. Pulled into a garage to fill up with petrol and car refused to restart, even with a hot engine. Cleaned contacts and restarted first time, so it can creep up on you without warning.
                  Mike G

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Tallyman
                    One other thing to look at to keep batteries working well. Take off each main battery connection in turn (thereby making sure you've always got power to the ECU etc) and thoroughly clean the terminal post and the inside of the connector. If you can get them bright & shiney more the better. Wire wool will work well on both or try sandpaper or emery cloth. Once clean, coat the terminal with vasaline and clamp connector back on. That should ensure good contact and allow full voltage to the starter etc and also full recharge from the alternator.

                    I had this problem years ago on an old MG1300. Pulled into a garage to fill up with petrol and car refused to restart, even with a hot engine. Cleaned contacts and restarted first time, so it can creep up on you without warning.
                    So true. I'm a second call radio technician. The amount of real !!!!!!! jobs that are referred to me because peeps didn't check the basics first. ( PSU voltage, is it connected to anything, is it recieving, is it transmitting blah blah)
                    The above observation is from the same person (yours truly) who wasted two days with a multimeter proving that all the ignition/electrics were alright on his Zook and then replaced the points and condenser. ( The first thing recommended by the manual) Bugger me it worked! I am a pro radio tech and an amateur car mechanic. Isn't learning fun?
                    It's only a hobby!

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