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  • Bleeding the cooling system

    Hi all
    My first post here but have been reading for awhile.
    I have been having heaps of problems with my 2.4 overheating and spewing out coolant and all the usual things and replaced my head gasket and shaved the head. No cracks were found so I may have been lucky. The thing still boiled on the weekend so I have to look at other probs. My rad is fairly new, new water pump, thermostat, cap. I was told I may have an airlock and after reading through heaps on this site after a search, found nothing about bleeding the system. Could someone tell me the best way to remove an airlock, basically bleeding it. Also is there a tap on the side of the block to bleed the cooling system?

    Hope I made sense.
    cheers
    Les
    Last edited by MTpockets; 3 October 2004, 16:57.
    [COLOR=YellowGreen]92 SSR-X AUTO/2.4L T/D EFI
    31/105R15 TOYO OPAT Tyres/Staun deflators
    CSA Custom Alloys
    Bullbar/spotties
    Uniden UH012 UHF/Pioneer CD[/COLOR]

  • #2
    Hi Les

    Well iam no expert
    But i hope this helps its worked on all my other trucks and cars.
    1st put some rad flush in it and give her a blast round the block.
    Drain it via a bottom hose on the rad not the rad tap which is on most surf rads at the bottom.Taking the bottom pipe off alllows more crap to come out!!
    Now take the top hose off get a hosepipe and flush the rad out with lots of water.then poke the hose in the top hose so it flushes the engine.
    SORRY FORGOT TO SAY ALLWAYS HAVE THE HEATER ON THE HOT SETTING!!
    Now connect all back up.
    And fill with hottish water and your antifreze mix,speeds things up when hot.
    Start up and let it come to the correct levels,So if pipes are like rock then am sure its air,just undo the top hose untill she hisses NO MORE as it will pop off and make a mess and burn you!!
    Just keep doing untill you are happy.
    Had a old ford took over a week to get air out.
    Well i hope this helps am sure some tech heads would say you take a diffrent pipe off,But its allways worked for me
    AnDy

    Comment


    • #3
      An old timer call Gemini who used frequent this here bar (enough of that Wild West stuff) always advised that you pull the hose off the tube which carrys coolant from the heater matrix. The 2 tubes regulating the matrix are run parallel to each other just to the left hand side of the top of the engine.

      If I remember right, the left hand one is the one carrying coolant away from the heater matrix so (with the engine running) pull the hose off it just beside the aircon unit and be happy that the coolant flows well from it before you refit the hose. That is the only way to know there is no airlock in the heater matrix.

      Worked for me!

      Before I hit the submit button, the hoses are clipped onto these tubes with ridiculous clips that you must throw into the neighbours roses and fit proper jubilee clips in their place

      Comment


      • #4
        I must try that heater beeding trick Jim, fed up of mine sounding like a small waterfall evertime I use the heater. Wish Toyota had just put some simple bleeding valves in the hoses like my previous 2 cars.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by MTpockets
          ....Also is there a tap on the side of the block to bleed the cooling system?

          Les
          If it's like the 3.0, there's a tap to drain the block but I don't think there's any way to bleed it.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by JimL
            An old timer call Gemini who used frequent this here bar (enough of that Wild West stuff) always advised that you pull the hose off the tube which carrys coolant from the heater matrix. The 2 tubes regulating the matrix are run parallel to each other just to the left hand side of the top of the engine.

            If I remember right, the left hand one is the one carrying coolant away from the heater matrix so (with the engine running) pull the hose off it just beside the aircon unit and be happy that the coolant flows well from it before you refit the hose. That is the only way to know there is no airlock in the heater matrix.

            Worked for me!

            Before I hit the submit button, the hoses are clipped onto these tubes with ridiculous clips that you must throw into the neighbours roses and fit proper jubilee clips in their place


            Thats the first thing I did with mine after changing the coolant. Also see the tech article "Burping the cooling system." I've never used that method on the Surf but it worked for me on my 1971 Volvo 145, which was a b*tch for getting airlocks.
            It's only a hobby!

            Comment


            • #7
              Cooling System Bleed Valve

              Here's one I made earlier.
              Sorry but the pictures have moved around. I think you can work it out alright.

              http://www.yotasurf.co.uk/forums/sho...ht=Bleed+Valve
              Rubblebags (Geoff).

              Comment


              • #8
                Excellent !!!
                Thanks guys, that is exactly what I was after.
                That valve mod is also brilliant. I have added that link to our www.toyotasurf.asn.au forum if thats ok. I am a moderator there and I am sure others will love that mod, as will I.
                Thanks again guys
                cheers
                Les
                [COLOR=YellowGreen]92 SSR-X AUTO/2.4L T/D EFI
                31/105R15 TOYO OPAT Tyres/Staun deflators
                CSA Custom Alloys
                Bullbar/spotties
                Uniden UH012 UHF/Pioneer CD[/COLOR]

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by rubblebags
                  Here's one I made earlier.
                  Sorry but the pictures have moved around. I think you can work it out alright.

                  http://www.yotasurf.co.uk/forums/sho...ht=Bleed+Valve
                  Kewl, i obviously missed that post Geoff! Thanks

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Rob
                    I must try that heater beeding trick Jim, fed up of mine sounding like a small waterfall evertime I use the heater. Wish Toyota had just put some simple bleeding valves in the hoses like my previous 2 cars.
                    hehe, my 4Runner does that.
                    4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by JimL View Post
                      An old timer call Gemini who used frequent this here bar (enough of that Wild West stuff) always advised that you pull the hose off the tube which carrys coolant from the heater matrix. The 2 tubes regulating the matrix are run parallel to each other just to the left hand side of the top of the engine.

                      If I remember right, the left hand one is the one carrying coolant away from the heater matrix so (with the engine running) pull the hose off it just beside the aircon unit and be happy that the coolant flows well from it before you refit the hose. That is the only way to know there is no airlock in the heater matrix.

                      Worked for me!

                      Before I hit the submit button, the hoses are clipped onto these tubes with ridiculous clips that you must throw into the neighbours roses and fit proper jubilee clips in their place
                      I stuck a garden hose on the right rubber hose with them both detached, engine NOT running and flushd it through. First air came splurting through then water get someone to turn it down to a trickle, stick the left hose back on, detach the right one from the garden hose and stick that one back on.
                      Now nice hot air coming out back of the cab.

                      If you can get the right size tubing you can make a join between garden and heater hose. I actually stuck 2 sealant tube nozzles end to end and stuck tapered ends in either hose. Used electrical tape as superglue didn't work. Lasted just long enough to do the job. Also best to get someone else to operate tap, preferably within shouting distance.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I had no issue with mine but one I read coming up to it was a simple fix.

                        most of the issue, apparently, is that the heater hoses are ABOVE the filler cap. Cut the bottom off a 2l coke bottle and with some rag to seal it, stick it on top of the rad as a funnel.

                        Then open all the heater controls to hot hot hot and start it running while you feed in the coolant. Because you now have the high point in the whole system at the filler cap the heater finds it much harder to get locked up and your air comes out the high point rather than get trapped.

                        Easy to try, maybe works for you? Like I say I have not tried it but it sounds fair as an idea.

                        Comment

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