engine troubles....... :-(

[*Turandot*]

I have also been told by the local toyota dealer to replace the viscous fan with a uk spec one at £134 it's quite expensive and some importers are changing them as soon as they come into the country, I will fit one after replacing the head

It seems very unlikely that there is any such item as a UK spec fan. If there is any difference at all between a JDM fan and one supplied in Europe it can only be an adjustment. Sounds like a great way to take another 134 off the unwary.

If you want to uprate the fan unit a bit buy the fan from a HJZ80 Land Cruiser. It bolts onto the Hilux hub and has an extra blade so it moves a bit more air.

[stevo]

viscous fan

I have also been told by the local toyota dealer to replace the viscous fan with a uk spec one at £134 it's quite expensive and some importers are changing them as soon as they come into the country, I will fit one after replacing the head

It seems very unlikely that there is any such item as a UK spec fan. If there is any difference at all between a JDM fan and one supplied in Europe it can only be an adjustment. Sounds like a great way to take another 134 off the unwary.

If you want to uprate the fan unit a bit buy the fan from a HJZ80 Land Cruiser. It bolts onto the Hilux hub and has an extra blade so it moves a bit more air.

Viscous fan coupling temp sensor strip can be adjusted to come in a little sooner, search on this site for instructions how to do it, saves buying a new one.

[carbonman]

Ok

New headset ordered from UK Cylinder heads. Credit card considerably heavier!

What does concern me is the old cause and effect.
From talking from the guy at UK Cylinder heads he suggested that more than likely its due to the flow of water not being sufficient, i.e partially block rad or similar. He suggested that I get the rad pressure tested and completely flushed.
Assuming I do that, is there anyway of monitoring the flow of water?

Just as many others I guess a little paraniod that whats caused the first head to go, might contribute to problems on a new head.

Anyone got any comments on this?

Cheers
CM

[Guest]

Ok

New headset ordered from UK Cylinder heads. Credit card considerably heavier!

What does concern me is the old cause and effect.
From talking from the guy at UK Cylinder heads he suggested that more than likely its due to the flow of water not being sufficient, i.e partially block rad or similar. He suggested that I get the rad pressure tested and completely flushed.
Assuming I do that, is there anyway of monitoring the flow of water?

Just as many others I guess a little paraniod that whats caused the first head to go, might contribute to problems on a new head.

Anyone got any comments on this?

Cheers
CM

I still think that the main cause on those heads is bad design, waterways too close to the valves. I am pretty convinced that the overheating happend because the head has cracked rather than that the overheating caused the head to crack. Seems to have been a redesign that went wrong or a bad batch of heads. Remember that not all of the engine parts are made by Toyota, a lot are mad by subcontractors which may explain why some crack and some don't. It maybe the subcontractors ones that are good and Toyota are bad, or the other way round. Toyota engines are made by a number of sources including Daihatsu and Hino.

Cheers

[carbonman]

Ok thats cool
Obviously after shelling out, im a little paranoid!
But i have all the faith in the world in what u guys on here say and know.
Obviously I will make sure everything is in tip top condition, i.e coolant fans etc.. But always reassuring to hear from others who are "in the know"
:-)
Cheers guys

[Koi]

Ok thats cool
Obviously after shelling out, im a little paranoid!
But i have all the faith in the world in what u guys on here say and know.
Obviously I will make sure everything is in tip top condition, i.e coolant fans etc.. But always reassuring to hear from others who are "in the know"
:-)
Cheers guys

Just remember to take the oil seal (semi circle shape) off the cam end off the old head to re-use on the new head.

[carbonman]

Roger that.

Will pass on to the guys doing the work.
Cheers

[Guest]

Just remember to take the oil seal (semi circle shape) off the cam end off the old head to re-use on the new head.

Just to be specific on that, the oil seal is a semi circular blanking plug made of alloy not rubber. It has two grooves with rubber seals in it. When they are putting it back in they should also put plenty of hermetite around it to make sure of a good seal.

I know about this one cos I forgot and sent the old head back to UK cylinderheads with it on. Luckily they sent it back to me and didn't even charge the postage - damn good service. I put a huge puddle of oil on my drive and my mother in law's. it You have to take the rocker cover off again to refit it - along with all the turbo piping.

Cheers

[carbonman]

I tip my hat to you chaps.
Althought im not doing the work personally, i know my grease monkey isn't too proud to take any tips like that at all, so I will most likely print this thread off and give it to him!

Cheers
CM

[Koi]

I tip my hat to you chaps.
Althought im not doing the work personally, i know my grease monkey isn't too proud to take any tips like that at all, so I will most likely print this thread off and give it to him!

Cheers
CM

He probably will, but make sure the glow plug assembly (washers) go back as they came off or it will blow the fuse the first time you start it.

[Buckle]

Same symptoms



Hi CM

Not wanting to be a portent of doom but my 2.4 developed exactly the same symptoms as yours and it was the head cracked. It would drive for a few days ok and then all of a sudden dump coolant into the expansion tank until it overflowed.

Then all of a sudden one day it let go big style.

I didnt get the poor starting and clouds of white smoke but it did run rough for a while after start up.

What you are describing there sounds like hydraulic lock. If water leaks into the cylinders it cannot be compressed and stops the engine turning over until it is forced past the valve/ring seal. Be very careful with this as I have seen other cars bend conrods because of hydraulic lock. Had one guy put a rod through the block because of it but that was on a shogun so I didn`t care!!!!

Good luck

Buckle

[carbonman]

Well todays the day

The trucks gone in for its head job....
I have to say, UK Cyl heads supplied a pukka pack, including everything I needed to do the job.
For people who read this in the future, part of the warranty of the head requires that the rad is subjected to a flow and pressure test, but a company of their choice. Fortunatly my local company are happy to do this for free.

Once I have the outcome of the job, including the state of the head, I will post more details.

Cheers
CM

[carbonman]

UPDATE.......

For those who are interested... the heads finally come off, and its cracked in at least 3 visable places.... The new head will be going on shortly.

They have also had the radiator out, and think that that may well be why the heads gone....
Some of you will remember my trip to reading, where we went to the pingewood off road site! And I took a left where I shoulda took a right and ended up in a pretty big puddle!! (About 3ft)

Anyway.... everyone at the meet told me to make sure my rad was proper clean. Well I spent a couple of jetwashes on cleaning the rad and visiably it was looking ok. However now its out the truck, probably 2/3rds of it are still clogged up with mud...

My own fault this one really as I was told to make sure the rad was totally clean. But thought it worth mentioning to anyone who is new to off roading like me, probably the head would have gone some time anyways. But if you do go off road, make sure you do a better job of cleaning the radiator than me. And im guessing this may well involve completely removing it from the truck to get it proper clean.
A few hours of work to do this may well save you ££££ in the long run if its not cooling properly.

Cheers
CM

[Rob]

Always worth mentioning. Temp gauge goes up on mine on motorways, even on the slightest hill at 60mph. Must get round to taking the rad out and cleaning it properly!

[carbonman]

Well hopefully, the final stage in the story.

I have the truck back now, its running like a dream with its new head.

The old head has been confirmed cracked in about 3 places, 2 across from valve to valve and one crack from the valve to the injector.

So any final things I need to make sure of now?
Ive been told they don't really need running in or anything like that, so just assume normal service???

Thanks for all your help through this guys, you had the diagnosis spot on and that saved me time and money.

Cheers