Misfire problem at start up

[young-gunn]

I know I keep posting new threads but my problems just keep changing. Recently I've been having starting issues, wouldn't fire up cold very easily and now with the warmer temperature it misfires pretty bad on start up. I put in new glow plugs and it was worse so I put the old ones back in, they still tested good. Fires up nice with one glow plug cycle but after 10 seconds starts misfiring. clears up after a while but starts misfiring again. Once warmed up the truck runs and idles fine. There is lots of black smoke when it is misfiring. The starting problem appeared out of nowhere but the misfire got much worse when I adjusted the fuel pump (timing marks on the cover and pump were not even close, timing belt is lined up perfectly).

What I have done to the truck lately, in order (2LTE engine)-
New fuel primer and one way valve on tank
New injectors, truck was starting well at this point
-One month later (I had moved so almost 3000kms later) it started having troubles starting without being plugged in.
New glow plugs, problem worse, put in old glow plugs after testing them
New fuel filter and Oil/filter change
New air temp sensor
New coolant sensor (on the intake side of the block)
Found loose vacuum line, plugged into vsv, drivability stayed the same but had an idle problem when warm
EGR was blocked off with plates but I removed it completely, and made thicker plates
Deleted VSV system and hooked up vacuum hoses as per the write up I found (warm idle problem gone now)
Checked timing belt
Fixed fuel pump timing
-This is where the startup got really bad.
Disconnected batteries for 4 hours with headlight switch "On"


I'm starting to lean towards a bad fuel pump (new one was put in 4 years ago), or maybe a sensor. I can try to get photos later, maybe someone can spot something out of place?-

I'm living kind of in the middle of nowhere and it's my only way to get around. Out here there's no one that would know anything about fixing a diesel Toyota. I'm a diesel mechanic but I'm just totally stumped and stressed out.

The truck is not losing any coolant, engine was rebuilt 30,000 kms ago with a new complete head. and new turbo. Not losing any oil, no fuel leaks, turbo boosts well and spools quite quick after the VSV/EGR delete. Really need some insight on this, thanks.

EDIT: Pictures

[shokenore]

Just to be clear when the truck is warm it runs and idles ok?

What ambient temperatures are you dealing with ?

How long does it take to warm up or how long is the rough idle for?
Is there a reason why you leave it idling?
Do you have the idle up button?
What is you tickover rpm?

[young-gunn]

idles fine when it warms up.

Temp here is about 0 celcius in the morning and up to 10 celcius in the sun when I leave work.

Rough idles for about 30 seconds then runs good. A minute later, starts ilding rough again.

It's not all that warm so I usually fire it up then go take my coveralls and boots off and leave work (or in the am fill my coffee cup and get back in the truck).

I do have the idle up button, it helps a bit but still misfires for a bit then smooths out.

I haven't really looked at it, but I would guess about 800 rpm.

I currently have it sitting outside with the batteries disconnected and headlight switch on in an attempt to reset the ecu. If I get my butt out of bed early enough I'll get a video and post it up so you can see exactly what is going on.

[shokenore]

A video might be quite helpful.

You have checked for any fault codes?

[young-gunn]

Tried to take a video this morning, stuttered twice then ran just fine. Will try again when I leave work or tomorrow morning. No fault codes and I ran both tests. Just got the "not in park or nuetral" code on the drive test

[young-gunn]

Here you go

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4sg9D7Zw9ko

I was just moving the truck on the street so I wasn't ready and waiting to take a video. Will try to get one from startup in the AM.

[shokenore]

That idle does seem a bit lumpy.
The smoke looks a bit blue to me though.
That is probably worn valve seals.
You might have a bit of a worn fuel pump which is struggling with the new injectors.
Might also be worth filling up the fuel filter with injector cleaner and running that through to see if it makes a difference.
I would have a look at the TPS and see if that is set correctly.
There was a write up on here about it.

Does the air filter bang against the body work with the bonnet closed?
You could lose the long bit of tube across the rocker cover and have the air filter on a much shorter piece on the turbo side if you had the space?

[J20]

The diesel injection guy who checked my injectors told me the pump timing might need to be reset to suit the new head I had fitted. At the moment it isn't all the way there - it takes three cycles of the glow plugs to start without stalling (just the plugs I imagine), runs lumpy for the first 10 seconds or so and is a bit noisy until warm. It's also using a bit too much fuel and is still a bit down on power. But it is running!

I'll be taking it in to him for a look over when i get the time and I suspect he will adjust the pump timing. He did say to me to move it by no more than 2mm from the old mark, but I don't know how to tell when it is right except by listening for it sounding "right", ie: no knocking or lumpiness.

Maybe you have upset the timing a bit by going to the factory marks on a replacement head?

[young-gunn]

The head has 30,000 km on it, I don't imagine it would be valve seals. I've been meaning to look into the tps adjustment write up and give that a try. The filter is just on a little more crooked than usual and vibrates when it misfires, it usually rests right behind the battery just fine. I have only removed the A/C compressor a few days ago but have been throwing around the idea of putting a different intake pipe on and putting it up by the brake master with a heatshield around it.

The idle did get much worse after adjusting the pump to factory alignment. Been trying to reset the ecu but it hasn't proved anything. Starting to think a possible worn pump...

[RebelV8]

How do you adjust the timing on the pump?

Is it just by turning the pump itself? Or is there another way of doing it?

[J20]

The advice I was given was to rotate the pump up to a maximum of 2mm toward the block from the factory mark until smoke/knocking/other noises stopped, ie: it sounds "normal". I think a diesel mechanic like the OP is much more likely to know where to adjust it to than a diyer like me.

[RebelV8]

Great, at least I'm doing it right then, lol

[young-gunn]

Mine was about 4mm from the mark. I turned to be dead on with the mark and left the batteries unhooked. The problem got worse after that. It was already having issues firing up but it got worse. Here's 2 more videos I took this morning

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lm50Ck33D7o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0zr6RK-foA

I work on heavy equipment, not small trucks and a hilux isn't common here at all so no one seems to have any insight.

[shokenore]

That is a weird one.

OK
TPS sensor have you checked for correct operation?
EFI coolant sensor dodgy or not connected.
Air sensor? is this still connected?
Glow plugs maybe one is dodgy but putting enough heat into the engine to start.
Dribbling injector.
Worn injector pump.

[young-gunn]

Have not checked TPS, have been having trouble taking off the plug to do any testing an I'm afraid to break it so I left it alone for now. Coolant sensor is new, air sensor is new. Injectors are new and tested good about 2 months ago (had a problem with a spec of dirt in one new injector so I had them pop tested). Injector pump is 4 years old or so but I'm really starting to look at it as the culprit. A new one here is about $2000 in parts alone so I'm really hoping I find something else to be the culprit.