Ignition Key Won't Turn

[Greg212]

Ignition Barrel Stuck
HI, running out of ideas on this one: Truck been running brilliantly last year – really smooth. However, I had the truck sitting for a week in the garage, then started engine, pulled it out of the garage onto the drive and turned off the ignition, stopped the engine. Tried to start it again a few minutes later and the key would not turn at all in the barrel – just felt like steering lock was sticking as is common in most cars sometimes. It was cold – just above freezing. I could get the key out so I tried the original – no better. Key goes into barrel no problem but once in the barrel there no chance of it turning. I tried WD40 into the barrel.
Truck is now marooned on the drive. I pulled off the dash covers and have been trying to wiggle the key, also with varying amounts of force on the steering wheel. I have disconnected the electrical socket that feeds into the end of the lock barrel and have even tried hot wiring it just to get it back into garage – all without success (it turns over without wanting to fire – something to do with ECU I guess)
I’m at a loss of what to do. I’ve searched threads on this site and tried all the obvious solutions (brake pedal down, auto stick fully pushed into ‘P’ position), I even jacked up the front wheels to try to release any locked in torque on the steering column - all without any luck.
Next option is I guess to start really digging into the dash to try to remove the lock barrel – any idea before I start to do this?
Greg

[Wolfracer]

Sounds like you've got a tumbler out of place. Try giving the barrel a few taps with a small tack hammer, via a lump of wood, so not to smash the casting. Plenty more WD40, then a little grease on the key....

My Driver's door would not turn to LOCK, but would open very easily. I thought it had a mechanical jam in the linkage. I WD40'd the lock, then oiled the key and after quite a few jiggles, it started to come free. It's now working absolutely fine.

Maybe if there was moisture in the lock when you put it in the garage, ( or even condensation) this could have lead to corrosion?
Does your key work fine in all the other locks?
Failing that your barrel's knackered. They are easy to take out IF you can turn to position 1, which I don't think you can?

[Tokyo drift]

I had a similiar problem but twas the other way round, the key wouldn't come out of the ignition. I ended up disconnecting the battery for half hour and hey presto it came out, have had to do that a couple of times now but not sure if it's something to do with aftermarket remote start feature.

[GBV8]

I ended up disconnecting the battery for half hour and hey presto it came out

Once you've disconnected the battery, the key should turn back that last notch and come out immediately. No need to wait.

[Greg212]

Thanks guys. I’ll try the grease/WD40 this evening. At the moment the key is just not having any kind of twisting applied to it (at all!) – feels like a mechanical blockage rather than corrosion making it simply stiff to twist, added to that the steering is locked thus making me think it was a steering lock problem, however what you say makes sense: I use the truck for taking windsurf gear to the beach – and the key usually accompanies me into the salty stuff so over the last year or two the lock has probably taken on some salt and moisture, the last week sitting in the cold damp garage has probably pushed it to seize up.
The doors lock fine, although they do all feel pretty slack. The immediate problem was trying to get the windows closed when it failed on the drive – managed to hot wire the electrics to get them to close so at least managed to keep it secure.
Thanks again all, Greg

[bryanisaoldgit]

hope

have you tried wiggleing the steering wheel while you try to turn key

[Greg212]

right so... tonnes of WD40 and some bangs with hammer but still no luck. There is a small white cube - about the size of a sugar lump - sitting on top of the lock barrel - this has two wires (green I think) leading off them. Any ideas what this does? Same for the larger black cube sitting just to the left of the barrel.
My next course of action is to break the lock! I am thinking screwdriver rammed into the lock barrel and then some excessive torque - just like the movies - thing is am I going to make things worse?
From the previous post (thanks wolfracer) it seems removing the barrel is easy IF I can get the lock to move - hence the screw driver approach.

[GRASSMAN]

Hi there,

I've also had this problem, cured it by giving the
gear selector a few a few knocks. (safety lock out)
Park or neutral,
Hope this helps.

Gman.

[Greg212]

a-ha! All sorted!! ;-} Went back outside and bashed it again - tapped just to left hand side of barrel and it turned....! Started the truck and now back inside garage. Took key out, then replaced for same problem. Similar tap in same place and key once again turned. I've now taken the lock barrel out (Wolfracer as you say real easy to get out when in position1) and will review and clean tomorrow.
So, lessons learnt:
1 Little white cube-shaped switch located ontop of lock barrel is the sensor that makes the annoying alarm tone when key in ignition and door open.
2 Larger black cube-shaped switch to left of barrel is the solenoid activated by the auto shift stick - this stops key turning unless auto stick in 'P' or 'N'

Thanks for all the help!

[Wolfracer]

Glad to be of help and that at least you've solved the immediate problem.
Please report back why it's failing, as I don't think this issue is very common, yet!

[Greg212]

Lock been soaking in lots of 3in1 oil - feels better, will replace over weekend.
I'd say it is my own doing - the key gets a lot of salt water on it, and this of course gets introduced into the barrel.
Cheers,
Greg