rad top hose pulsates/bubbling on switch off

[Tokyo drift]

Ok, only real problem (so far) i have is my dreaded cooling system.

1992 2.4ltr Diesel Auto.

System has been bleed to the best of my ability.

Coolant seems to have been badly maintained and most hoses have that crushed ice feel to them.

After run, temp guage is about a third, sounds about right.

Heater is ok but i think it needs another flush (rear heater has been bypassed previously).

Top of rad is FAR to hot to touch but rest of rad is cool to the touch, like it's blocked maybe?

Top hose pulsates/bubbles after switch off, airlock?

You can remove coolant cap (on engine not rad btw) straight away without waiting for cool down without any bubbling over?

Coolant in filler neck sits low but the coolant tank level seems to rise quite high when hot?

New rad cap, thermostat has been tested in a pan and seems to open when the water boils.

Filler neck mating faces were realy corroded so had to sand them down but i think maybe the cap is not sealing around the bottom ring aswell as it should.

Could blockages in the system be causing airlocks to remain in the system ?

[Albannach]

Check on here for 'burping' the cooling system.

If you suspect blockages, get the thing properly flushed and replace the radiator.

Change the thermostat and radiator cap for Toyota ones.

[ptr1968]

Some radiators have a oilcooler inside, it is blocking the main water pipe (down) a bit, can easy glog Might wanna swap it.
Airlock can be in head not in radiator.

Peter

[carlpppumps]

if your rad is cold in places it means the water is not going through it in that erea if it was me i would put another rad on if it fuxx the head up you will wish you had if you get a new rad go for the 3.0 rad it is bigger

Ok, only real problem (so far) i have is my dreaded cooling system.

1992 2.4ltr Diesel Auto.

System has been bleed to the best of my ability.

Coolant seems to have been badly maintained and most hoses have that crushed ice feel to them.

After run, temp guage is about a third, sounds about right.

Heater is ok but i think it needs another flush (rear heater has been bypassed previously).

Top of rad is FAR to hot to touch but rest of rad is cool to the touch, like it's blocked maybe?

Top hose pulsates/bubbles after switch off, airlock?

You can remove coolant cap (on engine not rad btw) straight away without waiting for cool down without any bubbling over?

Coolant in filler neck sits low but the coolant tank level seems to rise quite high when hot?

New rad cap, thermostat has been tested in a pan and seems to open when the water boils.

Filler neck mating faces were realy corroded so had to sand them down but i think maybe the cap is not sealing around the bottom ring aswell as it should.

Could blockages in the system be causing airlocks to remain in the system ?

[Gazbo]

You have changed the water pump? Or checked that it is circulating? If it's ok, then I'd say blocked radiator