Cold heater

[DMAudio]

Was having a cold heater syndrom last night (first time I've ever tried the heater to be honest) and of course no heat. There was a new 0.9 bar rad cap fitted when I got it, but when I took it off this morning about a litre of coolant came out, so obviously it's still pressurised from lasts nights running around.

So after reading a few threads on here regarding burping the system, I had her up on car ramps, rad cap off and running with the heaters on for about an hour, and all it did was push more coolant out of the filler. All heater matrix pipes are cold so it's clearly an air lock, but even up on ramps the pipes sit way higher than the filler. So figured I'd switch it off, leaving the cap off and try again later (when I've got some Hylomar and some spare jubilee clips). Only after it was switched off did the level drop enough to put some coolant in.

I've heard of people leaving the caps off overnight to let the air out, but it seems on these if the engine is running, you've got no chance of bleeding without an air valve in the topmost heater hose. Does that all sound about right? My Supra is a pig to bleed too, so guess this must be a running Toyota theme...or maybe gravity works differently in Japan...

[BUSHWHACKER]

Have you checked that the valve on the bulkhead is operating when you switch from cold to hot on the heater controls?

Does the rear heater get hot?

[DMAudio]

Have you checked that the valve on the bulkhead is operating when you switch from cold to hot on the heater controls?

Does the rear heater get hot?

Yes it does work fine.

No the rear doesn`t get hot either.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Then it's either a massive airlock or the heater hoses are full of crud.

I would pull the heater matrix hoses off the bulkhead and use the garden hose to flush the matrix out.
Also give the heater hose a squeeze, do they feel crunchy? If so then this would indicate that the matrix could be full of crud.
The rear heater is independant from the main heater i.e. it bypasses the thermostat and should warm up as soon as the engine is started. It has been know for the steel pipes that run under the floor to become full of crap that can only be successfully cleared out with a long length of stiff wire.

[DMAudio]

Ah they were indeed a bit crunchy. I'll get the garden hose out and do a full flush then, cheers for the info.

(PS: you still selling that turbo inlet pipe?)

[BUSHWHACKER]

Ah they were indeed a bit crunchy. I'll get the garden hose out and do a full flush then, cheers for the info.

(PS: you still selling that turbo inlet pipe?)

Ooh yeah, I forgot about that, I'll go and dig it out!..........

[DMAudio]

Well did a full coolant flush today and now have heat at the rear but not from the front. Will leave the cap off tonight and see if it burps properly, then tomorrow start looking at the flappy things under the dash, as I'm not convinced the heater controls work properly. None of the buttons seem to direct the air to the screen.

[Ploddit]

the control wire from servo to flaps gets kinked - only €10.

You can manually move the flaps with your head inside drivers footwell a big white lever.

[DMAudio]

After an overnight bleed and a grease of the white flappy things, we now have heat where I want it.

Many thanks for the input peoples!