2.4 Fuel Pump Seal Location Clarification

[Surfster]

Hello - re the fuel pump leak problem, people often seem to mention if it is the top seal that it can be replaced with the pump in place. I have ordered a seal kit form roughtrax and am going to give this a bash - can I just check though - when people say the "top seal" does this mean there is a bottom seal as well? I know about the small one for the sensor on the top of the pump and the one underneath the cover on the top of the pump that is held down with the allen bolts - are there any others that could be a problem though?

I've looked at this:http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/fuelpump.htm
and the diagram on the roughtrax site next to the seal kit, but I'm none the wiser.

Diesel is dripping out under the vehicle at a pretty steady rate.

I've tried the ATF to no avail

I've been quoted about £600 to have the fuel pump taken out and sent to a diesel engineer for a refurb and then refitted, although a guy I met said he'd sell me a pump for £100. I'm just wondering if the pumps are coded or would a pump form another 2.4 "just work"? If so is it worth buying this other pump and puling it apart myself and fitting seals then paying mechanic to install it? Is it realistic to get in about the insides of these pumps yourself?

[NiftyNev]

There's a number of seals in the pump but reference to top seal means exactly what you stated. There's a couple in the sides of the pump, one in the rear distribution block and a front shaft seal. Top cover plate and the o-ring can be replaced in vehicle but be very careful with the o-ring one as it's for the speed sensor which can drop pieces of plastic into the pump from the underside of it because the nut is usually hard to undo and the plastic becomes brittle with age.

Nev

[Surfster]

So is the way to go to remove the top plate without removing the sensor, then remove the sensor when you can see the underside of the plate and stop bits falling into the pump? then replace the o ring and secure the sensor again, then replace the top seal, then screw the top plate back down again?

[Surfster]

One of the other posts mentions not completely removing the top cover due to two wires - anyone know what the story is with that? are these wires to/from the sensor?

Also I was thinking I could wedge some rag in the pump once the over is half off to stop any "bits" falling down inside...?

[puddlesurfer]

Hi, it's a simple job:

undo the multiplug on top, 32mm socket to undo the sensor (bend tabs on lock washer out of the way first) undo the 4 hex bolts lift off, change seal, put back together - all good easy

oh and you need to undo the fuel union bolt as well to get to one of the hex bolts still easy

[Domcr250]

By all means give the top seal a go – space is very limited. Most people tend to find it’s actually the O ring that’s leaking, there is one on each side of the pump. The one that normally weeps is the one closest to the block! – so that means you need to take the pump off. £600 all in is not a bad price. I’d recon on about 8 hours labour to pull the pump on and off, plus about an hour to put the new seals in.
If you can swap a cambelt then you can do a pump yourself – only advice from me is don’t pull the distributor head off (that’s the bit with all the injector outlets on it). It will spring off and all the guts will fly across the floor!
If you need to pull the pump get a new cambelt and water pump on it at the same time.

[NiftyNev]

There are a few pics of the Speed Sensor in the link below and possibly more info that will help.

http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/v...+sensor+canada

Nev

[Surfster]

well there is some coming out form under the sensor but only a dribble. There's also some coming out from the seal under the top cover but I don;t know if that's all of it. I think I'll give the top seal and sensor o ring a bash and see if that cures it - if so hey presto I've save 600 bucks! if not - as in all likelyhood it sounds like may be the case - then I guess I'd better start saving my pennies!