Coolant & Head check query

[silvtr1000]

I'm viewing a 1990 2.4 manual Surf this weekend. Seller (private) swears it's a good one (of course he would!). I'm confident I'll spot any problems (using a printed copy of the checklist at http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/info/faq.htm, and a bit of cop on) with the exception of head/cooling problems.

Are there checks I can do to determine head cracks?

I've read about turning on all heaters & running engine - why?

The seller will be collecting me from the train station, so overheating may show up on that drive?...

Any advice very much apreciated.


Mark

[Guest]

I'm viewing a 1990 2.4 manual Surf this weekend. Seller (private) swears it's a good one (of course he would!). I'm confident I'll spot any problems (using a printed copy of the checklist at http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/info/faq.htm, and a bit of cop on) with the exception of head/cooling problems.

Are there checks I can do to determine head cracks?

I've read about turning on all heaters & running engine - why?

The seller will be collecting me from the train station, so overheating may show up on that drive?...

Any advice very much apreciated.


Mark

Mark.

The only good way to check if there is a head crack without resorting to proper diagnosis with a pressure tester and gas tester is to turn on the heaters and go for a decent drive in it. By turning on the heaters you are doing something that is not normally done and this may well find any overheating problems.

I'm sorry to say that it can be very difficult do find heads cracked that aren't causing problems yet, starting from cold and taking the radiator cap off can help.

You may want to look around where the overflow pipe comes out of the expansion bottle and see if there is any evidence of large scale overflowing (rusty water marks etc).

However the good news is that just because it is a 2.4 doesn't mean that the head will ever crack. Not all do.

Best thing is to take it for a good rest drive with mixed roads, some traffic etc.

Hope that this helps.

Cheers and good luck

[Scuddy]

Agree with Andy

Just 'cos it's a 2.4 don't mean it HAS to crack. Like your choice I have a 2.4 1990 ssr LTD manual, bought in Portsmouth and driven (hard) overnight to Aberdeen (600 miles in 1 hit)...no hint of an overheat or the dreaded 'white' smoke from exhaust. Needle rarely strays past middle of the dial on the indicator.

Ask seller about rad flushing, if and when it was done, what went back in, thermostat changes, etc. and see if he's clued up. If he is then chances are preventative maintenance has been kept up to date

Good luck

Scuddy

[Smurf]

Heaters on?????

this will help the system to stay cool as the air coming into the car through the heaters will assist the rad in keeping the temperature down. If you want to show up an overheat problem dont turn the heaters on, once it is hot and you are satisfied it is ok then turn them on to ensure there are no air locks in the system.
Once driven let the engine cool for a while and check out underneath and all the interior toys then get a large bit of rag and gently undo the rad cap to release the pressure(it will spurt out some hot water), replace and restart the engine, if it instantly re-pressurises then you could have a problem (squeeze hoses to check).
I dont think you can be sure of no problems, i checked mine over when i bought it and the head went 3 weeks later, on the other hand many people have never had any head problems at all, think its just the luck of the draw!!
Hope it is all ok.
P.S. check coolant colour, if its muddy brown/black it hasnt been changed for some time and may well have leak stopping compound in it!!!!

[Pete]

With the engine hot and running, look in the expansion bottle. you shouldn't see ANY bubbles, (no matter how small). When you turn off the engine, look and listen for any faint sound of bubbling. Also, after the engine has been idling for a few minutes, rev up a couple of times and make sure theres no white smoke out of the exhaust. Mine ran fine for months with these symptoms, but it was early warning signs. Agree with Smurf on the heater thing. I would run it with the aircon switched on, the engine has to work harder. Good luck.
Pete

[Big Jonah]

Bubbling

Getting worried now. Had my surf back 2 weeks now after new head fitted, and can hear bubbling from the expansion chamber occasionally after hte engine is tuned off.

Any ideas????

[marky]

Take it back to them so it can be checked out

[Big Jonah]

Thanks, Pete said the same in another thread. Head has a years warrenty, so should not be a problem.

[Koi]

Getting worried now. Had my surf back 2 weeks now after new head fitted, and can hear bubbling from the expansion chamber occasionally after hte engine is tuned off.

Any ideas????

would check its filled correctly, were both heaters open when it was filled, was it filled via the rad cap not the expansion bottle. Is the level in the expansion bottle to the correct level.

[Big Jonah]

Not sure about the heaters being open. What difference would that make?

Stopped in a lay-by today to hear the bubbling, had only gone 5 miles or so.

Investigated the expansion tank to find it was at the right level, but the coolant was black and very gunky, and looked suspecially like oil.

Called the mechanic who did the head work, and took it around at 5pm today.

Sods law the bubbling didn't occur when I parked up at his garage, despite me having just done 250km @ 100kmh in a round trip.

Coolant level was normal in the expansion tank, as well in the system. He checked for any traces of CO2, but found none. Then checked the casing temp, and all four pistons were the same temp, with the exception of the one nearest the turbo, which was marginally higher, which he expected.

With the rad cap off, and the engine started, there was no imediate rise in pressure, and in fact ran for 10 - 15 mins with it off.


He couldn't really say what was wrong. Best guess was a pipe on the way out somewhere letting air in as the engine cools.

He's offered to flush the cooling system, and do a full pressure test, to see if we can identify which pipe it is.

Any ideas? I'm booked in for the flush and pressure test early next week, and will keep all informed.

[Koi]

Not sure about the heaters being open. What difference would that make?

Stopped in a lay-by today to hear the bubbling, had only gone 5 miles or so.

Investigated the expansion tank to find it was at the right level, but the coolant was black and very gunky, and looked suspecially like oil.

Called the mechanic who did the head work, and took it around at 5pm today.

Sods law the bubbling didn't occur when I parked up at his garage, despite me having just done 250km @ 100kmh in a round trip.

Coolant level was normal in the expansion tank, as well in the system. He checked for any traces of CO2, but found none. Then checked the casing temp, and all four pistons were the same temp, with the exception of the one nearest the turbo, which was marginally higher, which he expected.

With the rad cap off, and the engine started, there was no imediate rise in pressure, and in fact ran for 10 - 15 mins with it off.


He couldn't really say what was wrong. Best guess was a pipe on the way out somewhere letting air in as the engine cools.

He's offered to flush the cooling system, and do a full pressure test, to see if we can identify which pipe it is.

Any ideas? I'm booked in for the flush and pressure test early next week, and will keep all informed.

Because if you don't fill it with the heaters open then you get an air lock at this point and the first time you open the heaters that air moves. The coolant level drops and overheating happens.
If after 250kms the level in the expansion tank didn't rise then then I would say that isn't normal, it won't rise loads but you should see some expansion in there. Check hose to and in the tank isn't split anywhere.

[Big Jonah]

Thanks Koi, I'll have a look. No probs today so far, and was up to Kingston and back, no bubbling from the tank. Lots of black smoke still though.