Front axle pinion seal replacement

[wiltshireflyer]

Hi, can anyone tell me who easy it is to replace the front axle pinion seal please.

Is it a question of just disconnecting the front prop and pulling the seal out with a seal puller tool, then tapping the new one in?

Anything to watch out for or special tools required to complete the job?

Thanks in advance.

[TonyN]

Technically, you could mess up the crush washer and upset the crown wheel preload if you loosen and retighten the nut holding the pinion in.

BUT...

If you are careful not to over tighten it, it normally works fine, I've done 2 or 3 with no comeback.

Quiet often if the front axle has had a big shock the crush washer will have got squashed and the pinion nut will actually be loose once you unstake it from the shaft, this is a another reason for leaks.

As above, you should rebuild the diff, but in the real world tighten it up and normally its good to go.

[wiltshireflyer]

Technically, you could mess up the crush washer and upset the crown wheel preload if you loosen and retighten the nut holding the pinion in.

BUT...

If you are careful not to over tighten it, it normally works fine, I've done 2 or 3 with no comeback.

Quiet often if the front axle has had a big shock the crush washer will have got squashed and the pinion nut will actually be loose once you unstake it from the shaft, this is a another reason for leaks.

As above, you should rebuild the diff, but in the real world tighten it up and normally its good to go.

OK thanks for that Tony. In theory and easy job then. Do you have a schematic you can post up here of the assembly? I have no book to work from. Also, preload settings on the diff would be favourable to if available .

Thanks in advance

[Albannach]

OK thanks for that Tony. In theory and easy job then. Do you have a schematic you can post up here of the assembly? I have no book to work from. Also, preload settings on the diff would be favourable to if available .

Are you going to rebuild the diff or just change the seal?

If you are changing the seal, you don't need any data as the pinion nut just goes back to exactly the same position it was in before you removed it; no torque, no pre-load...

[TonyN]

If you are changing the seal, you don't need any data as the pinion nut just goes back to exactly the same position it was in before you removed it; no torque, no pre-load...

:nod:

That would have been easier to type than my waffle, but in a nutshell thats it...

[wiltshireflyer]

:nod:

That would have been easier to type than my waffle, but in a nutshell thats it...

Great, so if I just count the threads that remain while the nut is in place now, then just tighten up to that old point, when refitting, all she be ok?

[Albannach]

Great, so if I just count the threads that remain while the nut is in place now, then just tighten up to that old point, when refitting, all she be ok?

The nut will have been 'peened' into the shaft. When you undo the nut, count the number of turns to take it off. When you re-fit it, count the number of turns when you put it back on and line up the peened bit with the groove.

If there is no peening, mark the nut and shaft.

[wiltshireflyer]

The nut will have been 'peened' into the shaft. When you undo the nut, count the number of turns to take it off. When you re-fit it, count the number of turns when you put it back on and line up the peened bit with the groove.

If there is no peening, mark the nut and shaft.

OK, will do, thanks for the advice. I nearly forgot to ask, what grade of oil is recommended for the refill?

[Albannach]

OK, will do, thanks for the advice. I nearly forgot to ask, what grade of oil is recommended for the refill?

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