Hilux running lumpy

[quirky292]

Hey people,
My Hilux is running very lumpy, i thought i just needed a good run after being laid up for 6months. But no, its fine on idleing and starts fine, but when driving as soon as you go above 2100rpm its seems very lumpy. Also seems stuck for power aswell, but the turbo is whislting as normal and the light comes on as normal aswell.

We have a watch on both font wheel bearings on the MOT, Will this affect it moving?

Do the injectors need cleaning? Does it need Redx? or just a good old run?

Thanks for help people, its just got me puzzled

[Chainsawdude]

Possibly the fuel has gone "off" with it sitting for so long?

[quirky292]

Thanks for reply, there was a little bit left in the tank but we have since put about 40litres in. Im sure the old fuel would have cleared by now wouldnt it?
THanks

[kit05]

replace your tps

[quirky292]

Okey Thanks Kit05

AS im a newbie, What is the TPS and is there a forum on how to do this?

Thanks

[kit05]

throttle position sensor, located on your TB, throttle body

http://landcruiser.grundahl.ca/Injec...20Settings.pdf


TPS – Throttle Position Sensor.
Part No. 89452-12040
Cost new - $180 (Toyota)
Cost second hand – up to $90 (Scrappy)
The Surf’s TPS is a quality bit of kit. No bakelite and carbon here. The resistance tracks are etched onto a ceramic/glass disk and the
one I looked at showed no signs of wear even after it had done 250,000k. DON’T pull yours apart unless you are replacing it. It’s
designed as a sealed unit and you’ll need brain surgeon skills to put it back together although it can be done.
The TPS has two outputs. One tells the ECU the throttle is closed and the other how wide open it is. The TPS is one of the sensors the
ECU uses to determine how much fuel to inject. It also helps determine when to shift gear on the auto models.
Correct setting.
To set up the TPS you need to connect a multimeter set to resistance or continuity test mode, across the IDL and E2 terminals (see
diagram). The best way to achieve this is to use 2 jumper wires with small crocodile clips on each end. Remove the plug and connect
one end of the jumpers to each of the 2 most right hand pins as you look at the TPS from the front of the car. Connect the other ends
to the meter probes. Then…
1. Slacken off the two locking screws and rotate the TPS clockwise as far as it will go. Confirm you have a closed circuit (reading in low
ohms).
2. Insert a 0.85mm feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and the throttle quadrant stop.
3. Slowly rotate the TPS anticlockwise until the meter registers the point the circuit is broken.
4. Tighten the locking screws at this position and confirm the switch is open at 0.85mm and closed with a 0.5mm feeler gauge
inserted.
Your TPS is now set correctly.
Bench testing. Confirms TPS performs to spec.
1. Connect a multimeter across VTA and E2. Rotate the actuator checking there is a smooth increase in resistance within specs (see
diagram below).
2. Connect a multimeter across IDL and E2. Rotate the actuator checking the meter reading goes from closed to open circuit within the
first few degrees of rotation.
3. Connect a multimeter across +5v and E2 to conform it is within spec (see diagram below)
Note: Because of the way the TPS works it is not required to be manufactured to close tolerance and there is some variation in the
resistance between units as shown in the chart below. The important thing is during the transition from closed to fully open throttle,
the change in resistance is smooth. There should be no position were the meter to ‘hunts’ (continual fluctuations) for a reading.
In car testing for auto. Confirms TPS is functioning – TPS signals are reaching ECU – ECT ECU output.
1. Locate E1 and TT in the diagnostic port (see diagram below).
2. Connect a multimeter set to read DC volts 0-24volt range across E1 and TT.
3. Turn the ignition on. (don’t start the engine).
4. Rotate the throttle quadrant to the fully open position. The meter should read 7-8volts.
5. Slowly rotate the throttle quadrant back towards closed. The meter should show the voltage stepping down smoothly in 1volt
increments.

[quirky292]

Thanks for the reply Kit05,
Just going to read it through, before i do it i will run some redex throught to see if that does anything if not i will give it ago
Thanks

[BUSHWHACKER]

It's most likely injectors.
Get youself a new fuel filter, fill it with injector cleaner before fitting and go for a drive..

As it's been standing for a long time, condensation has made the soot in the exhaust all thick and lumpy, so the truck will need a good blast to get the exhaust hot enough to blow all the crap out.

[sabreuk]

Could also be crank sensor or wiring to crank sensor if your fuel lines etc and tps are fine.

[quirky292]

Thanks for the reply, i have but a bottle of redex in, and have had a run of about 15miles today,
It seems to be when its freewheeling in 3rd n 4th gear, seems to be struggling.
Would the injectors etc cause this problem, or is it more serious?
Thanks

[sabreuk]

doubt its the injectors mate if it was that it would be lumpy all the time and sound like a tractor. have ya checked all your vac lines that none of them have split or popped off?

[quirky292]

Sorry im a newbie and always learning about the surf.
The Vac lines? where are they please?

It sounds like a normal diesel and is only lumpy in 3rd/4th gear freewheeling, but doesnt seem to be too stuck for power anymore, was quite happy doing about 50mph in 5th no problem at all

Thanks

Sorry about my lack of knowledge

[sabreuk]

the vac lines mate are the thin rubber hoses in your engine bay you should have a few on the passenger side of the engine and a few by the dvr side wing in the engine bay. have a look at the pics mate, the proper pic is of the passenger side of the engine.

[quirky292]

thanks for that

I will check them as soon as possible

Thanks mate