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All Warning Lights On-Confirmation of diagnosis req'd

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  • All Warning Lights On-Confirmation of diagnosis req'd

    I have today had all of my dash warning lights come on on the Surf. I did a search on here and after reading about imminent alternator failure, I have decided this is probably the cause. I just need some techie to confirm my findings:

    When at idle, volts across battery (twin batteries) reads 12.6 V. Warning lights now on - with continuous beep.

    When increasing revs to 2000 rpm, lights go out, volts across battery are around 13.9 - 14.2 V

    I found the alternator belts loose, so tightened them but lights remain on at idle. I then increased revs to 1500 and lights went out, but as soon as I loaded the alternator with brake light voltage or headlights, then warning lights all came back on again.

    So , I am of the assumption my alternator has low speed under volt, so is this likely to be the whole alternator requiring a recon, or is maybe a voltage stabiliser/rectifier not working correctly?

    If someone with good electrical knowledge could help me, that would be great as my knowledge of electrics is basic. I am loathed to pay out for a new alternator if only a rec or stabiliser needs replacing.

    Any ideas?
    Last edited by wiltshireflyer; 12 November 2010, 01:41.

  • #2
    Anyone?

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    • #3
      Check the belts are tight.
      Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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      • #4
        The voltages you are measuring sound about right. You never get full alternator output at idle.
        Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Apache View Post
          The voltages you are measuring sound about right. You never get full alternator output at idle.
          I was just thinking that as well



          how old are the batteries??
          Could be as the weather getting colder they are coming to the end of their life and not holding the charge as well as they could..

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          • #6
            if your voltage is ok find someone who can check the alternators amps output as in some instances the voltage is just about right but the amps are down so it seems ok but still have similar symptoms to a dodgy battery
            I'M ALWAYS IN THE SH'T, IT'S ONLY THE DEPTH THAT VARIES!!!!!!!!

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            • #7
              Get hold of a current clamp meter and stick it on the +ve lead to the battery. Check what current is flowing into the battery - should be <2A-3A or so for a charged battery. Then get someone to rev around 1500rpm, turn all the lights on (inc full beam) and check there is still current to the battery and NOT from the battery - you can tell by the +/- sign changing as you do it. If there is current flow FROM the battery, then your charging system is at fault. If there isn't, then its fine.

              With the engine running above idle, there should never be drain on the battery - the alternator should support all of the load.
              Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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              • #8
                Thanks for all the replies. I will do as suggested and get a current check undertaken.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Apache View Post
                  Get hold of a current clamp meter and stick it on the +ve lead to the battery. Check what current is flowing into the battery - should be <2A-3A or so for a charged battery. Then get someone to rev around 1500rpm, turn all the lights on (inc full beam) and check there is still current to the battery and NOT from the battery - you can tell by the +/- sign changing as you do it. If there is current flow FROM the battery, then your charging system is at fault. If there isn't, then its fine.

                  With the engine running above idle, there should never be drain on the battery - the alternator should support all of the load.
                  hi apache
                  what type of current clamp meter would you suggest as i have one in-built into another meter but it doesn't appear to be working correctly and since the surf's are a bit tetchy in winter with the electrics it will be another tool to add to my arsenal of testers and the like
                  cheers
                  I'M ALWAYS IN THE SH'T, IT'S ONLY THE DEPTH THAT VARIES!!!!!!!!

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                  • #10
                    It needs to be a DC one, obviously! Most cheaper ones are AC only. I have a DiLOG DL6402 at work, but cheaper copies are available.
                    Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by wiltshireflyer View Post
                      Thanks for all the replies. I will do as suggested and get a current check undertaken.
                      And check the belts are tight. Just because you've adjusted them, doesn't mean they are right.
                      Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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                      • #12
                        i have a amp clamp if you want to use it depending what end of wiltshire you "fly" in
                        Eat.Sleep.Surf.Repeat.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by shokenore View Post
                          i have a amp clamp if you want to use it depending what end of wiltshire you "fly" in
                          Hi Shok

                          I am based in Salisbury.

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