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2.4 issues, do i just let it go :(

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  • 2.4 issues, do i just let it go :(

    Hi all, ok ive got a J reg SSR-X surf 2.4TD auto and ive only had it since begining of October. Ive spent a fair bit of money on it already, cambelt, new glow plugs, oil & filter change, fuel filter change and now im having big issues.
    Ive read the thread about the over heating and im thinking do i just let it go now? but i wanted to show these photos to people who might have an answer.


    Hope you can work out where that is, all i can say is its the bottom area of the calmbelt EDIT: the aircon raidiator was covering where this is which i removed to see if there was anything bad. The raidiator had oil over it but dosn't seem that fresh, the oil that is.


    Same again.


    And my water cap, looks a bit worse for wear to me but is it? or do i just get a new one anyway?

    I have cold start issue with it and struggling to find the problem there and now the over heating problem and whatever that oil in that photo is problem. Do i just except i got a bad egg?
    Last edited by m117chief; 24 December 2008, 14:50.

  • #2
    'A bit worse for wear'? That'll be your overheating problem.

    As for the oil, are you actually losing any?

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    • #3
      well i had the oil and filter changed about a month ago and hadn't checked the oil level since. ive checked it just now and it appears to be about half way between the full and empty mark. When it was done the garage said it took 7ltrs of oil!! Im just going to see if i can get a new cap now. Oh ive checked the engine cap and its pure black oil, no whiteness.

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      • #4
        They do take a fair bit of oil. Keep an eye on your oil level to see if it changes at all. That stuff in the photo looks pretty old but I can't work out where it is myself. Is the photo taken from underneath? Minor oil leaks seem to be fairly common.

        How on earth did your rad cap get like that? Do you have any problems with the truck in general?
        Last edited by Sancho; 24 December 2008, 15:21.

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        • #5
          Ok bear with me now please. Just got a brand new cap on and it holding pressure, trust me its working. as for the over heating, it was fine for 15mins the it went up then down and was ok for another 3 or 4mins. then it went up and carried on. I stopped. cool down. I moved on, up it went again. stopped open bonnet and let it cool down, had to remove cap to put more water in it, there was mega differance in the new cap to the old one. Once it over heats theres a small fan on the front of the rad which kicks in but the big fan on the back of the rad dosnt, mean anything?


          The big pipe going to the raidiator is super hot and where the pipe connects to the raidiator its hot but the rest of the rad is cold all along the top. Ok this could be important, ive put the heating on in the truck and theres no heat what so ever coming from it, left it running and nothign but cold air. Its not ticking over correctly now and when stood still its giving out blue smoke.
          The photo of that oil is taken from underneath the truck. Like about where the bottom of the cambelt is. I love this truck, really has been great when working but im losing the will to be bothered with it now. Could it be the rad? or could the heating be connected?

          Comment


          • #6
            The temperature going up and down is caused by air in the system. Do a search for 'burping' and you should be able to find out how to sort that out. That's probably also why the heating doesn't work.

            The small fan on the front of the rad is electric and will come on at a pre-set temperature so sounds like it's fine.

            The big fan on the back is the viscous fan and should be turning all the time with the engine running. There should be a belt going from the back of this fan to other pulleys in the engine bay. Is there? Do a search for 'viscous coupling' to get more info on that.

            The big pipe going to the top of the radiator is supposed to be hot so don't worry about that. The rest of the radiator is also supposed to be hot, but there is probably air in the top which is making it cooler. Again, you need to burp it. It is possible, but unlikely, that the rad is blocked. Flush the system and refill with coolant to be sure. Instructions here: http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/workshop/coolant.htm

            What do you mean not ticking over correctly? Noisy? Uneven?

            Is the blue smoke coming from the exhaust or the engine bay?

            Your radiator looks a bit odd.

            Your thermostat housing looks quite new.

            I wouldn't worry too much about the oil at the moment if it doesn't seem to be going down.

            Lastly, what idiot has been doing this work for you and not noticed that your rad cap is screwed and your fan doesn't spin?

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Sancho View Post
              Lastly, what idiot has been doing this work for you and not noticed that your rad cap is screwed and your fan doesn't spin?
              Er "looks around and whistles to self" that would be me as i got laid off the week before this went wrong so ive had no cash to get it looked at. I fitted the thermostat myself and have been scratching my own head as where to look. For seeing if i can sort this air lock out i will also have to do my self. Im not the quickest but i get there in the end.
              My mistake with the big fan, it is running. When its just idling its like, er....hang on, ive done a small vid which ill youtube now and link.

              thank you by the way for helping and not shouting at me for not knowing anything

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              • #8
                Originally posted by m117chief View Post
                .

                thank you by the way for helping and not shouting at me for not knowing anything
                No worries, I don't know anything either

                I meant whoever did the cambelt. They should have noticed the other stuff.

                If you're lucky someone from upstairs in general will notice this and come down to help out more.

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                • #9
                  Does sound like an air lock in system . Rad looks odd as Sancho says but maybe one with a 'homemade' top section as we know they rot out .
                  Oil leak is least of probs until overheat is sorted .
                  Does look like coolant system needs a good flush through by state of rad cap !!
                  Rick...Member of 1st Gen club. ONE LIFE ... GET ONE !!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Ok link for truck on idle.

                    http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=lNuuye...e=channel_page

                    Not sure it helps but it dont sound like it did a few weeks ago. maybe im just losing it. As for the fumes they look white there but when i was nearly over heating earlier they was blue while idling but when im moving along they look like good old black/grey fumes you get with them.
                    Ive checked that link out for draining the rad and i can manage that, just need to get all the right refills which is going to have to wait. So looking like im on hold for now...................

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      OK, the thermostat has a small hole in it with a ball valve (jiggle valve) this hole or valve must be at the 12 o'clock position when the stat is fitted.

                      There should be two belts driving the engine fan and they need to be taught, i.e. they shouldn't be able to be twisted, in the middle of the longest part between two pulleys more than 90 degrees.

                      Blue smoke is burning oil caused by oil residue in the intake tubes, worn turbo or seals, valve stem oil seals or worn piston rings/bores.

                      Look at the crank pulley from underneath, as in your photo above, with the engine running, does it move in and out as if it's loose? If yes then it needs to be replaced as it has become de-bonded from the centre part and the water pump won't be working efficiently.

                      The steam from the exhaust in the video is normal at this time of year due to the ambient temperatures, but should clear when the engine is up to operating temp.

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                      • #12
                        The oil leak is most likely the front crank oil seal as said before the overheat is the issue
                        ' You've arrived on a rather special night. It's one of the master's affairs.'

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                        • #13
                          Looks like the metal air pipe thing (getting technical) across the top of the engine has been swapped at some point as well. Doesn't look like the shiny silver one with EFI on it.

                          As Vince said, check the crankshaft pulley too. I'd put money on the tool that swapped the cambelt levering it off and de-bonding it.

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                          • #14
                            thanks for all this info people. I got the cambelt done at West Cross motors in Braunton, North devon, i was told after getting it done there they cut corners and do cheap work (not in the money that it cost me meaning).
                            Well i wont be able to get the air block sorted till next week now so watch this space for the answer to if it works or not Thanks again people.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER View Post
                              There should be two belts driving the engine fan and they need to be taught, .
                              Ahem, cough, that would be taut, as in under tension , rather than taught as in, in need of teaching.

                              Bogus
                              Сви можемо

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