Remove and refit starter motor...

[Bibs]

behind & underneath the exhaust pipes (now edited)

Ahhhhh - where the EGR was blocked off.

[legendgamesmaster]

every silver lining has a cloud....

Just done my starter using the RT rescue kit. took 4 hours. needed trolley jack, axel stands, several 17mm sockets and extension bars and elbows.

well, its as hard as they say it is, but not impossible for one person with the right kit at home. I would emphasise how much easier it is to move stuff out the way first - air filter, fuel filter, ATF dip stick (yep, makes it easier) passenger side wheel, wheel arch curtain cover things. Move the wires all out the way too.

The only way to get to the top bolt is using a 17mm socket, an elbow, an extension and either a ratchet an elbowed extender again. You go in from under the engine, from the rear, feeding the socket up along the transmission box (where the ATF dipstick goes, so I guess its transmission!). I did niaively try an assortment of spanners from 37 different angles first, but only succeded in bashing my hands.

Anyway job done, works a treat...

however.... you knew there was going to be one didnt you....

putting the bl88dy wheel back on I broke off a wheel nut! dont know my own strength! well, i do now! bugger. any advice on removing offending broken nut?

well, the list of work ive doen grows:
altenator - tick
fuel pump - tick
new rad - tick
shocks and springs - tick
CV boots - tick
and now
starter motor - tick


andy

[GRASSMAN]

Hi,
I've just ordered my starter kit today from R.T. A job for this weekend if it's not too wet!! how many bolts hold the starter on, does it come out from below or above, is there plenty of cable to let it hang from to un-do the terminals?

[Bibs]

Just done my starter using the RT rescue kit. took 4 hours. needed trolley jack, axel stands, several 17mm sockets and extension bars and elbows.

well, its as hard as they say it is, but not impossible for one person with the right kit at home. I would emphasise how much easier it is to move stuff out the way first - air filter, fuel filter, ATF dip stick (yep, makes it easier) passenger side wheel, wheel arch curtain cover things. Move the wires all out the way too.

The only way to get to the top bolt is using a 17mm socket, an elbow, an extension and either a ratchet an elbowed extender again. You go in from under the engine, from the rear, feeding the socket up along the transmission box (where the ATF dipstick goes, so I guess its transmission!). I did niaively try an assortment of spanners from 37 different angles first, but only succeded in bashing my hands.

Anyway job done, works a treat...

however.... you knew there was going to be one didnt you....

putting the bl88dy wheel back on I broke off a wheel nut! dont know my own strength! well, i do now! bugger. any advice on removing offending broken nut?

well, the list of work ive doen grows:
altenator - tick
fuel pump - tick
new rad - tick
shocks and springs - tick
CV boots - tick
and now
starter motor - tick


andy

cheers for the info - Hubby decided he didn't want to do it an it went in to the garage last Sat - dropped it off just after 9 - then got a call at 11 - 'we are just about to start an realise it will take more than an hour'.......great eh. So I still don't have it fixed - I will show him this an see if he wants to have a go this weekend. He doesn't have alot of patience though....

I still have a broken wheel stud - you need to remove the hub an knock the stud out an then replace. They are only a couple of quid each if that.

[TobyJug]

Hows about bribing Toby to help out

u really think she will trust me near her truck?

Ha ha ha think I've scared him off. Hubby is willing to do it but just read a few threads that say it's a bit@h of a job so thought I best ask you lot.

haha why have u scared me??

[Bibs]

Ha ha ha too right - would end up modded in some way.....

Last time I spoke to you I was bladdered (for once eh) an not spoke since. And as I seem to have this knack of psn peeps off, 2 an 2 make 7 eh ha ha ha

[TobyJug]

Ha ha ha too right - would end up modded in some way.....

Last time I spoke to you I was bladdered (for once eh) an not spoke since. And as I seem to have this knack of psn peeps off, 2 an 2 make 7 eh ha ha ha

hahaha don't worrie darlin u ain't ####ed me off...
Just got no credit seen as my phone has been turned to pay as u go now due to the money being low....

So all good...

we'll have to meet up some day soon.....

[Bibs]

hahaha don't worrie darlin u ain't ####ed me off...
Just got no credit seen as my phone has been turned to pay as u go now due to the money being low....

So all good...

we'll have to meet up some day soon.....

Ha ha ha - I meant on here ya muppet - or over there - I was shouting you in threads an you didn't answer....

Ha ha ha sound like a stalker now was just worried tis all

[legendgamesmaster]

How to change the Starter Motor LN130 2.4 L reg

Hi,
I've just ordered my starter kit today from R.T. A job for this weekend if it's not too wet!! how many bolts hold the starter on, does it come out from below or above, is there plenty of cable to let it hang from to un-do the terminals?

er.... took me 4-5 hours with almost the right kit.. start early and make sure everything is at nad. and get a big bit or cardboard to lay on under the truck.

See http://toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/starter.htm for a pictorial version from the Aussie forums. Its almost what I did.

Right, from memory:
17mm short, medium and long socket.
slim ratchet x2 or 3
10,12,14 and 15mm spanners / sockets
elbow connector, extenders for socket set in medium, long and an elbowed one too.
bit of pipe to give extra leverage if needed

In the Beginning..

• disconnect BOTH batteries and ensure they can't short out.
• remove passenger side front wheel.
• jack DOWN to allow easy access to engine bay
• remove air filter housing and pipe
• undo the fuel filter nuts but dont remove the fuel pipes - you can just move the filter around when you have to.

Optional Removal
I also removed the EGR pipe and the wires that connect to the socket block just under it. It gave me more vision to see where stuff went AND allowed me to move the wiring loom that goes to the starter for easier access. 12mm nuts, the one nearest the bulkhead needs a small open ended spanner to get at it behind the brake line.

Remove more stuff!

• Jack UP so wheel hub hangs down nice and low
• support with axel stand(s)
• remove the 'curtains' that stop crap entering the engine bay.
• go in from the arch and remove the nut holding the ATF dipstick in place, remove dip-stick housing (and dipstick!)

Cover me, I'm going in....
looking in from the wheel arch, you will see the starter motor. YEAH!
its held in place by 5 nuts in total.
A simple bracket with one nut to the starter, two nuts to the chassis is the easy thing to get to (14mm i think) its just to the front of the brake line coil. Undo the nuts slightly but leave it in place to support the motor 'till you've done the other two.

the two main 17mm nuts hold the motor to the engine block. One top, one bottom.

Undo the bottom bolt
The bottom one is a threaded bolt with a nut. Put a medium socket on the nut end (toward the front of the truck) on a long slender or very short ratchet.
You probably wont be able to move this much as the gap between the torsion bar and the engine bay is minimal and the brake line coil gets in the way even going in from below isnt really enough room.
I managed to get the nut undone by luck I think.
put a socket on the bolt end if you can, with an elbow and an extender and another elbow to give some room for manouver. IF YOU CAN!! I could only get an open ended spanner in there.
Undo this nut and bolt, remove and lay aside.

right, the BA5T4RD top one is next.
look in from the wheel arch again. at the top of the starter is a bolt going through the block into the starter motor. Its almost exactly below the EGR valve, behind a small domed bit of the engine block (where the starter motor cog engages the flywheel I think). It is accessed from behind and below, (ooh, er, missus).
If you look in from the top, its the obvious bolt facing the fire wall just where the engine bay recesses behind the engine block. Trust me, it'll make sense when you are looking at it. honest.
DONT DONT Dont try to get a spanner in from the top, side, whatever, just do as I say, and you'll be fine. You'll only waste time and get very sore knuckles if you don't. Trust me, I know a doctor. read on MacDuff....

The Snake Setup
You need a socket-set setup as follows: short 17mm socket connected to an elbow connected to an 8 to 10 inch extension connected to another elbow-extension/ratchet or elbowed extension connected to your knee bone connected to your thigh bone... sorry, lost it there.... and finally dont forget your bit of pipe for a lever....... just in case.

Ready for action?
laying on the cardboard under your FULLY SUPPORTED truck, legs to the front, head to the back, so your head is to the left of the trasmission sump (where the ATF dipstick goes) and just at the back of the wheel arch, work out where you are going to go with the socket-snake setup you just made!

You feed it up to the left and at the top of the sump over the back of the engine block to the bolt. if you lift your head, you CAN SEE the bolt so getting it on isn't actually that difficult.

Once in place, crack that baby! I needed an extension lever (a bit of old pipe) to get enough torque, but once its cracked, it undoes easily - DO NOT REMOVE IT, just undo it.
Remember we didnt remove the side bracket yet? This is why - it keeps the starter in place so it doesnt put any extra strain on the bolts you are undoing, 'coz it f'kin heavy!!!!!

Round of Applause, the hard bit is done.
Right, you have undone the two bolts, time to remove the bracket. easy! just 3 nuts. no, really. it is easy.

now you can pull / push / swear as you rotate the starter clockwize and towards the front of the truck. Do this from the arch / underside if possible.

Remove electical connectors
Jack the truck down to gain access to the engine bay.
move the fuel filter around to get access where needed.
man-handle the starter from above until you can get at the BIG wire that goes to the top contact, covered by a rubber dome. Undo this connection (17mm) and ensure you keep the nut and washer safe.
there is a plug to the rear top of the starter with a wire that has a white lable on it, which needs to be disconnected too.

Remove the Starter
REMEMBER its a damn heavy bit of kit - mind those fingers and take your time. No, really. Its FOOKIN heavy and can crush a pinky easily. or a finger.

The Aussie bloke who did the write up at http://toyotasurf.asn.au/techsite/starter.htm took it out from the top. I didnt as it just wouldnt come up easily. So, my way (not neccessarily the right way!) is detailed below.

Jack truck up and SUPPORT FULLY again.

Go in from the wheel arch and underneath to get the starter out. Once free from the engine block, drop the rear down into the area at the back of the wheel arch between the sump and the chassis / torsion bar.
Manouver until it drops through.
Watch and remember as it has to go back IN that way too!
like having a baby? nah, only took my wife TWO hours to give birth, this took me 5. oh, there WAS an afterbirth too... a lump of rubber padding came out (of the engine bay, not my wife... ) and I couldnt get it back in, so, er, its gone now.....

Time for a cuppa!

Refurb the motor
Follow the instructions that come with the kit. DO NOT LOOSE the spring from the plunger, its the only bit NOT in the kit. Follow the instructions properly, the terminals are not the same, they have different bits - make sure you get the right ones in the right place. I packed the cog with grease too, dunno if you should but what the hell!

Get back in, you f*****g b*****d c******g a**e-h**e piece of s**t.
once you are ready to re-fit, you need to feed the starter back up into the engine bay. that was a right pain, but it does go in - after all it came out that way! I am not sure if copious ammounts of axel grease, KY jelly, vasaline or baby lotion will be of any help, but you could give it a go I s'pose.....

Anyway, once back up the hole, re-locate the starter but DONT refit the bolts yet. You might need to wedge it, but mine seemed happy to stay put on its own.

Electical Reconnection time
jack DOWN and get into that engine bay to re-fit the top main connector and the rear plug. DO IT NOW not after youve fitted the motor... believe me, you DO NOT want to do that.....

The Final Push
Jack UP the truck, fully support yadda yadda.....

• Put the locating bracket back on the starter, it will help line things up.
• push the threaded bolt though the lower locating hole
• apply some copper grease
• apply the nut
• tighten (yeah, like its that easy).
• re-thread your 17mm socket snake back up the trucks passage..... and get that top bolt in.
• tighten top bolt

make sure everything is tight and in place.

Refit the stuff you took off
Jack down, refit the engine bay gubbins, remembering to refit the AFT dipstick tube BEFORE you put the wheel back on (nope, didnt fall for that one)

Reconnect a battery and fire her up for a few seconds - you are testing the STARTER, not the engine!. if it dont work, buy a new truck.
Check everything is reconnected including the fuel filter, the air intake sensor and (crucially) the vacuum tube that goes to the air intake, and all the side curtains etc. Make sure you aint got a pile of things left over.

Jack up, fit wheel, break wheel stud, curse, swear, cry.

Starter motor refurb - DONE! : and finaly

[GRASSMAN]

er.... 5 hours with the right kit.. start early. get a big bit or cardboard to lay on under the truck.

Right, from memory:
17mm short, medium and long socket.
slim ratchet x2 or 3
10,12,14 and 15mm spanners / sockets
elbow connector, extenders for socket set in medium, long and an elbowed one too.
bit of pipe to give extra leverage if needed

In the Beginning..

• disconnect BOTH batteries and ensure they cant short out.
• remove passenger side front wheel.
• jack DOWN to allow easy access to engine bay
• remove air filter housing and pipe
• undo the fuel filter nuts but dont remove the fuel pipes - you can just move the filter around when you have to.

Optional
I also removed the EGR pipe and the wires that connect to the socket block just under it. It gave me more vision to see where stuff went AND allowed me to move the wiring loom that goes to the starter for easier access. 12mm nuts, the one nearest the bulkhead needs a small open ended spanner to get at it behind the brake line.

Remove more stuff!

• Jack UP so wheel hub hangs down nice and low
• support with axel stand(s)
• remove the 'curtains' that stop crap entering the engine bay.
• go in from the arch and remove the nut holding the ATF dipstick in place, remove dip-stick housing (and dipstick!)

Cover me, I'm going in....
looking in from the wheel arch, you will see the starter motor. YEAH!
its held in place by 5 nuts in total.
A simple bracket with one nut to the starter, two nuts to the chassis is the easy thing to get to (14mm i think) its just to the front of the brake line coil. Undo the nuts slightly but leave it in place to support the motor 'till you've done the other two.

the two main 17mm nuts hold the motor to the engine block. One top, one bottom.

Undo the bottom bolt
The bottom one is a threaded bolt with a nut. Put a medium socket on the nut end (toward the front of the truck) on a long slender or very short ratchet.
You probably wont be able to move this much as the gap between the torsion bar and the engine bay is minimal and the brake line coil gets in the way even going in from below isnt really enough room.
I managed to get the nut undone by luck I think.
put a socket on the bolt end if you can, with an elbow and an extender and another elbow to give some room for manouver. IF YOU CAN!! I could only get an open ended spanner in there.
Undo this nut and bolt, remove and lay aside.

right, the BA5T4RD top one is next.
look in from the wheel arch again. at the top of the starter is a bolt going through the block into the starter motor. Its almost exactly below the EGR valve, behind a small domed bit of the engine block (where the starter motor cog engages the flywheel I think). It is accessed from behind and below, (ooh, er, missus).
If you look in from the top, its the obvious bolt facing the fire wall just where the engine bay recesses behind the engine block. Trust me, it'll make sense when you are looking at it. honest.
DONT DONT Dont try to get a spanner in from the top, side, whatever, just do as I say, and you'll be fine. You'll only waste time and get very sore knuckles if you don't. Trust me, I know a doctor. read on MacDuff....

The Snake Setup
You need a socket-set setup as follows: short 17mm socket connected to an elbow connected to an 8 to 10 inch extension connected to another elbow-extension/ratchet or elbowed extension connected to your knee bone connected to your thigh bone... sorry, lost it there.... and finnaly dont forget your bit of pipe for a lever....... just in case.

Ready for action?
laying on the cardboard under your FULLY SUPPORTED truck, legs to the front, head to the back, so your head is to the left of the trasmission sump (where the ATF dipstick goes) and just at the back of the wheel arch, work out where you are going to go with the socket-snake setup you just made!

You feed it up to the left and at the top of the sump over the back of the engine block to the bolt. if you lift your head, you CAN SEE the bolt so getting it on isn't actually that difficult.

Once in place, crack that baby! I needed an extension lever (a bit of old pipe) to get enough torque, but once its cracked, it undoes easily - DO NOT REMOVE IT, just undo it.
Remember we didnt remove the side bracket yet? This is why - it keeps the starter in place so it doesnt put any extra strain on the bolts you are undoing, 'coz it f'kin heavy!!!!!

Round of Applause, the hard bit is done.
Right, you have undone the two bolts, time to remove the bracket. easy! just 3 nuts. no, really. it is easy.

now you can pull / push / swear as you rotate the starter clockwize and towards the front of the truck. Do this from the arch / underside if possible.

Remove electical connectors
Jack the truck down to gain access to the engine bay.
move the fuel filter around to get access where needed.
man-handle the starter from above until you can get at the BIG wire that goes to the top contact, covered by a rubber dome. Undo this connection (17mm) and ensure you keep the nut and washer safe.
there is a plug to the rear top of the starter with a wire that has a white lable on it, which needs to be disconnected too.

Remove the Starter

REMEMBER its a damn heavy bit of kit - mind those fingers and take your time. No, really. Its FOOKIN heavy and can crush a pinky easily. or a finger.

Jack truck up and SUPPORT FULLY again.

Go in from the wheel arch and underneath to get the starter out. Once free from the engine block, drop the rear down into the area at the back of the wheel arch between the sump and the chassis / torsion bar.
Manouver until it drops through.
Watch and remember as it has to go back IN that way too!
like having a baby? nah, only took my wife TWO hours to give birth, this took me 5. oh, there WAS an afterbirth too... a lump of rubber padding came out (of the engine bay, not my wife... ) and I couldnt get it back in, so, er, its gone now.....

Time for a cuppa!

Refurb the motor
Follow the instructions that come with the kit. DO NOT LOOSE the spring from the plunger, its the only bit NOT in the kit. Follow the instructions properly, the terminals are not hte same, they have different bits - make sure you get the right ones in the right place. I packed the cog with grease too, dunno if you should but what the hell!

Get back in, you f*****g b*****d c******g a**e-h**e piece of s**t.
once you are ready to re-fit, you need to feed the starter back up into the engine bay. that was a right pain, but it does go in - after all it came out that way! I am not sure if copious ammounts of axel grease, KY jelly, vasaline or baby lotion will be of any help, but you could give it a go I s'pose.....

Anyway, once back up the hole, re-locate the starter but DONT refit the bolts yet. You might need to wedge it, but mine seemed happy to stay put on its own.

Electical Reconnection time
jack DOWN and get into that engine bay to re-fit the top main connector and the rear plug. DO IT NOW not after youve fitted the motor... believe me, you DO NOT want to do that.....

The Final Push
Jack UP the truck, fully support yadda yadda.....

• Put the locating bracket back on the starter, it will help line things up.
• push the threaded bolt though the lower locating hole
• apply some copper grease
• apply the nut
• tighten (yeah, like its that easy).
• re-thread your 17mm socket snake back up the trucks passage..... and get that top bolt in.
• tighten top bolt

make sure everything is tight and in place.

Refit the stuff you took off
Jack down, refit the engine bay gubbins, remembering to refit the AFT dipstick tube BEFORE you put the wheel back on (nope, didnt fall for that one)

Reconnect a battery and fire her up for a few seconds - you are testing the STARTER, not the engine!. if it dont work, buy a new truck.
disconnec tthe battery again, to be safe
Check everything is reconnected including the fuel filter, the air intake sensor and (crucially) the vacuum tube that goes to the air intake, and all the side curtains etc. Make sure you aint got a pile of things left over.

Jack up, fit wheel, break wheel stud, curse, swear, cry.

Starter motor refurb - DONE! [/B]: and finaly

WOW, thanks for the info, sounds quite easy don't it. (on paper, on screen)
Just how many swear words did you use, were they man sized tissues, or will any size do? I allways have a few bits left but it seems to work OK.

Thanks for your time, will let you know how it went later.

[TobyJug]

Ha ha ha - I meant on here ya muppet - or over there - I was shouting you in threads an you didn't answer....

Ha ha ha sound like a stalker now was just worried tis all

haha all good Bibbles....
Sorry I ain't been on much so not noticed the shouting lol

But all back now....

Big hug....

[Bibs]

haha all good Bibbles....
Sorry I ain't been on much so not noticed the shouting lol

But all back now....

Big hug....

Aww fanx - all joikn aside - really glad to hear all is well. I am off to bed now - up at 6 for an 11 hour shift stock takin' - oh joy ....night

[GRASSMAN]

WOW, thanks for the info, sounds quite easy don't it. (on paper, on screen)
Just how many swear words did you use, were they man sized tissues, or will any size do? I allways have a few bits left but it seems to work OK.

Thanks for your time, will let you know how it went later.

I must be getting slow in my old age, 45mis to get starter off engine, but another 6 hours!!! to finish it, wot a twonkk of a job, tried to get it out from
above and below, no go!! in the end I cut the inner wing and folded it up
out of the way. and it came out easy, rough but effective tho' will weld it back tomoz. starts OK now.

PROBLEM!!!! the engine check light is on, anyone got the ECU codes please.

[Bibs]

Wey hey - all fixed an good as new. Only took 1.5hrs as well. Not us I might add.

Going to get the old one reconditioned as you never know.

[Growler]

Glad to see you finally got it sorted

Now stop breaking it and maybe we can sort another weekend out in Wales for the new year