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  • the saga continues !

    tried to get snapped extractor out, no chance...this is what i think is my only solution: i need to remove the alloy casing on the front of motor!
    1 are there any hidden horrors waiting for me?
    2 can the sump just be loosened to allow bottom of casing to be freed
    3 top pulley mark is at 3 o' clock,middle pulley at 9 o' clock, bottom pulley 6 o' clock..top and middle need to go quarter turn each...does bottom need to go half or 1 and a hlf turns, in readiness for removing cogs. no doubt i'll have a few more questions as i battle through yet another knuckle scraping mission...............and yes the cat had another kick LOL.
    STEVIE J

  • #2
    Could you grind two sides of the bolt flat and put a spanner on it?

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    • #3
      no chance

      the bolt has snapped where the thread starts..about two inches inside. so its snapped in the block and not in the alloy casing. cant drill it cos i snapped a bolt "extractor" in there yesterday and a drill wont touch the hardened steel.
      STEVIE J

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      • #4
        Damn. That's a bit situation.

        I'd think the thermal expansion ratio should be different enough that a bit of heat might help get the extractor out.

        Apart from that... what would a new block cost vs. chance of working long and hard and still f.u. this one?

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Bluebirdsurfer View Post
          2 can the sump just be loosened to allow bottom of casing to be freed
          Not that simple as far as I know. The oil pick up tube has to be disconnected to remove the timing gear housing, so this involves removing the sump to be able to unbolt it.

          Nev

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          • #6
            how about lowering the diff to get the sump of! works on my v8
            JAP4X4PART ¬ THE BIGGEST SURF BREAKER IN THE UK ¬

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            • #7
              Yeah, you're screwed.

              The sump has to come off, which means the front diff has to come out. Not sure you'll your hands in the gap before the sump rests on the diff.

              Good luck with it, not a nice job.

              Extractors are great, but you never want to break one, they are harder than your drill bits, so you can't drill them out if you do.
              4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

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              • #8
                Maybe, just maybe you can break up the extractor with a small punch. You will need one around the same size as the hole you drilled or maybe a little smaller. It'll need a few good whacks but may work. Blow out the bits with compressed air if it does break up. You could also do more damage to the threaded area of the block as well so try this at your own risk. Sorry but there is not really a simple solution that I know of.

                Nev

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                • #9
                  clutching at straws

                  I,ve got one last idea!! what if i cut the idler bolt to length so it fits in hole lengthways. put a nice new thread onto it then insert a lovely new helicoil in there. bolt on pulley and bobs my uncle! only prob i can see with that is the bolt will only me about a rizzla width into the block. Cemical metal could be used to fill the void between jagged extractor end and the face of new length bolt. therefore adding some strength...What do you all think. I dread the thought of the alternative as my finances mean I'll be doin it all myself.. come on guys be positive.
                  STEVIE J

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Bluebirdsurfer View Post
                    come on guys be positive.
                    I'm positive you're screwed

                    It might work, but you're fixing the idler to soft alloy, instead of the block. Time will tell if it works. If its in square and flat against the housing, it might be OK, but it could end in tears as well if it pulls out.
                    4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by TonyN View Post
                      I'm positive you're screwed


                      Why not arrange a time when Boyo can come and have a look with you? Many hands, two heads etc etc.

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                      • #12
                        one thing for it.

                        sump will have to come off. is it a bstard of a job......Thanks again for the advice gents! I'll no doubt be picking your brains in the near future on the lovely topic of front diff and sump removal.
                        STEVIE J

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                        • #13
                          dude cobalt drill bits will touch your extractor, not cheap but less than a block or idler coming loose.
                          or as said above a good sharp punch, to break it up. are they snap on extractors? if their cheapies just go slow with a cobalt bit and bobs your uncles neighbour

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                          • #14
                            Stormforce has a good short block, a lot of work, but it sounds like you're up the small tributory with out a means of propulsion.
                            Rob

                            Still working for the man!

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                            • #15
                              i will take about any reasonable offer for it to get it out the way.
                              https://www.facebook.com/groups/henpals/

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