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  • #16
    your right not the pump but a whole lot easier to sort
    Should have bought a 3ltr

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    • #17
      Oops! forgot to update Got the pump seals done at the same time as the new clutch fitted, turned out to be one of the top seals

      Cheers all for your advise.

      Mark.........
      Let taste be the enemy of art!

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      • #18
        Leaking deisel pump on 2.4TD EFI

        I was mistaken, my main leak is coming from the pump, I think it's a side seal, which means removing the side section that has the injector flow pipes attached (opposite end to the cambelt). I'm hoping to do this insitu, anyone else achieved this?

        Just found this which looks helpful.
        Last edited by NickW; 14 April 2008, 12:33.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by NickW View Post
          I was mistaken, my main leak is coming from the pump, I think it's a side seal, which means removing the side section that has the injector flow pipes attached (opposite end to the cambelt). I'm hoping to do this insitu, anyone else achieved this?

          Just found this which looks helpful.
          If its the valve/ or the seal for the valve, it can be done with the pump in but it's a proper pig to get to. I ended up removing the rear support branket, disconnecting the cables to the pump, temp senders, air cleaner & crank position sensor and moving the entire lump of cables out of the way (Not entirly necessary but useful for a bit more room) I then used a halfords 3/8 allan key wrench and some very long extensions to get to it from underneath (down past the starter & towards the bellhousing).

          If it's the seal it's in the milners kit, If it's the valve prepair for a shock.... its about £150!

          If its the valve block (where the pipes come from) I believe it's a pump out only job.
          Bring me the head of a treehugger

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          • #20
            Thanks for your advice above. I've disconnected a few sensor cables and two water pipes to get more access. I found the image below on the web which shows the rear of the pump and what I assume one calls the distributor where the flow pipes connect. I think it's leaking either from the joint where the red arrow is or from where the thing on the top screws in. Is the 'thing on the top' the valve?



            I think I might get enough access to undo the 4 allen keys and remove the distributor complete with valve, but it looks too tight to undo the valve on it's own - might work if I saw a spanner in half.

            I'm assuming for now that it's not a crack in either the distributor body nor the valve body, but more likely a failed seal. The leak seemed to be coming from a hidden position between the valve body and the rear of the pump.

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            • #21
              What ever you do don't undo this bit
              www.cnpbetterhomes.co.uk

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              • #22
                Why not? Is it difficult to get back together. If it comes out as one piece like that then I doubt there is room to withdraw it insitu.

                Thanks for the picture. Is there an o-ring or gasket between those 2 surfaces?

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by NickW View Post
                  Why not?
                  Because the pump needs to be rebuilt and recalibrated.

                  Nev

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by NickW View Post
                    Thanks for your advice above. I've disconnected a few sensor cables and two water pipes to get more access. I found the image below on the web which shows the rear of the pump and what I assume one calls the distributor where the flow pipes connect. I think it's leaking either from the joint where the red arrow is or from where the thing on the top screws in. Is the 'thing on the top' the valve?

                    I think I might get enough access to undo the 4 allen keys and remove the distributor complete with valve, but it looks too tight to undo the valve on it's own - might work if I saw a spanner in half.

                    I'm assuming for now that it's not a crack in either the distributor body nor the valve body, but more likely a failed seal. The leak seemed to be coming from a hidden position between the valve body and the rear of the pump.
                    I think the valve on the top is the spill control valve, the one that was leaking on mine is this one!
                    Attached Files
                    Bring me the head of a treehugger

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                    • #25
                      Bottom rear is Timer Control Valve.

                      Nev

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                      • #26
                        I replaced the top seal and o-ring in-situ, but the pump is still leaking from the rear so I'm in the process of removing the pump. Radiator is out, belt pulleys and cambelt cover are off, fuel pipes disconnected, pump sprocket nut losened, just left with the most awkward of the 2 nuts holding the pump to the engine block to remove.
                        Last edited by NickW; 25 April 2008, 14:07.

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                        • #27
                          Has anyone any advice as to how to remove the nut securing the fuel pump, the one closest the engine block please, eg best tool to use?

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                          • #28
                            It's awkward but i managed it without any special tools, Have you taken the air box out it gives you a bit more room.
                            www.cnpbetterhomes.co.uk

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by NickW View Post
                              Has anyone any advice as to how to remove the nut securing the fuel pump, the one closest the engine block please, eg best tool to use?
                              I found that the only sockets that fiited were 3/8 drive or 1/4 as the 1/2 sockets were too big. I had a good selection of extensions which fortunaltley for me were the same length as the pump which allowed me to get the socket on at the back of the pump. Still a pain but it was managable wasnt as bad as the starter motor.

                              Steve
                              Should have bought a 3ltr

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                              • #30
                                I got the awkward nut started with a short spanner and then finished it with a socket. The pump is now lose and the rear bracket removed, but there's not enough space to withdraw and remove the pump. Must the injector pipes be removed first? The nuts on the injectors look difficult to access too.

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