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Is my radiator 'fixable'?

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  • Is my radiator 'fixable'?

    If all it has wrong with it is a crack about 1 cm long on the front top section?

    There is a radiator place nearby that reckons if it is copped and brass (or something like that) he will be able to fix it........

    He said it would cost £45 plus VAT if I can get the rad off......?

    Any thoughts?
    www.myspace.com/conandoomconan

  • #2
    Originally posted by Razorhoof
    If all it has wrong with it is a crack about 1 cm long on the front top section?

    There is a radiator place nearby that reckons if it is copped and brass (or something like that) he will be able to fix it........

    He said it would cost £45 plus VAT if I can get the rad off......?

    Any thoughts?

    Yep, it can be soldered as it's all brass on the top.
    A new rad is 165 quid!

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    • #3
      Could you not just solder a copper patch onto it?
      Rob

      Still working for the man!

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      • #4
        I had a wee hairline crack about an inch long at the bottom of the rad,took it into work and someone soldered it,so far so good. it also saves a fortune

        Before......................




        After......................... ..

        www.scottishmudclub.com for scottish events

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        • #5
          Get a 2p coin and polish it , then get the cracked area of rad shing bright and solder the 2p on . The 2p helps reinforce the rad as well as seal it .
          Rick...Member of 1st Gen club. ONE LIFE ... GET ONE !!

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          • #6
            Surely not?
            www.myspace.com/conandoomconan

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Razorhoof
              Surely not?
              take it from a plumber...Yep, but wash the flux off afterwards - it's corrosive!
              Did I mention I have a BLUE one
              Tony

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Vagrant No2
                Get a 2p coin and polish it , then get the cracked area of rad shing bright and solder the 2p on . The 2p helps reinforce the rad as well as seal it .

                Just noticed, that any "coppers" I have in my pocket that were made after 1990 seem to be magnetic, suggesting not copper, whereas prior to that they seem to be non magnetic suggesting they are actually copper.

                The ferous metal coins probably won't solder.
                Rob

                Still working for the man!

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by plumb bob
                  Just noticed, that any "coppers" I have in my pocket that were made after 1990 seem to be magnetic, suggesting not copper, whereas prior to that they seem to be non magnetic suggesting they are actually copper.

                  The ferous metal coins probably won't solder.

                  When I repaired mine I cut an inch off some 22mm copper tube, cut it and bashed it flat, then cut a piece off that with tin snips.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by plumb bob
                    Just noticed, that any "coppers" I have in my pocket that were made after 1990 seem to be magnetic, suggesting not copper, whereas prior to that they seem to be non magnetic suggesting they are actually copper.

                    The ferous metal coins probably won't solder.
                    It is a long time since I did that method , so the metal must have changed as you have said .
                    Rick...Member of 1st Gen club. ONE LIFE ... GET ONE !!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Vagrant No2
                      It is a long time since I did that method , so the metal must have changed as you have said .

                      They've got chocolate inside now.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER
                        They've got chocolate inside now.

                        Well they certainly don't have any valuble metal in them, the government have obviously sold out on the money too.
                        Rob

                        Still working for the man!

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                        • #13
                          I was going to use some radiator mendin or fixing fluid (now sure what it's called). Is that a good idea?
                          www.myspace.com/conandoomconan

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Razorhoof
                            I was going to use some radiator mendin or fixing fluid (now sure what it's called). Is that a good idea?

                            Nope.

                            If you can solder copper pipes together using a blowtorch, flux and solder, then you can repair your rad. Same proceedure, thoroughly clean the area of the split, (remove black paint) then rub the area with steel wool, clean repair 'patch' with steel wool and brush some flux on it, apply heat to the splitand melt the solder onto it the same size as your repair patch, then place the patch over the hole, apply more heat 'till the solder starts melting, then dip the end of the reel of solder into the flux and melt a 'seal' around the edge of the patch.
                            There's no need to remove the rad, just drain the coolant out into a bucket via the drain tap at the bottom.

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                            • #15
                              Can all this be done with a regular soldering iron?
                              www.myspace.com/conandoomconan

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