Help needed

[TonyN]

Ah, not a good idea, try to get the bar resting on the chassis rail or steering box. It should undo anticlockwise, normal right handed thread.

You may need a puller on the pully, sometimes they are tight, mine pulled off OK though.

[Guest]

Ah, not a good idea, try to get the bar resting on the chassis rail or steering box. It should undo anticlockwise, normal right handed thread.

You may need a puller on the pully, sometimes they are tight, mine pulled off OK though.

If you unbolt the bracket that holds up the AC pump and the front of the alternator and unbolt the idler pulley from the bottom, it makes a great stay bar for the crankshaft pulley. just unbolt the crankshaft damper from the pulley (4 bolts) and use some same size bolts but longer and bolt the backet across 2 bolts (leaving space for a socket on the crankshaft bolt). The bracket is long enough to jam against something and allow you to undo the bolt. Also works when doing it up.

Cheers

[smithg]

More questions????

Hi fella's,
Five bent bolts, and a knackered pulley later, and the dog can see the rabbit! Phew,that was a job! Now, subject to a second opinion, I 'm pretty certain all of you who suggested the timing was a tooth advanced may be correct. Not that you get a perfect view, but to my eyesight it looks like the following: Crankshaft sproket at 12 o'clock (lug at top) Diesel pump sprocket at 12 o'clock (marked cog in line with marker on rear casing) Camshaft sprocket at approx a tooth on from 6 o'clock. The problem is there is no marker on the rear casing to exactly line up the camshaft sprocket! It looks like it should line up with a sprocket tooth but it has just passed that i.e just on the edge of the belt tooth. Does this make sense? Is there a method I can use to check the cam sproket is where I think it is? I've turned the engine round a few times and it does look as I say it is!
What's the best way to lock everything up to remove the belt?
As the belt looks undamaged and is only 4,000km old what could have happened?
Finally, what is the best method for turning the cam to the correct position?
I may be on the home straight now! thanx so far
Gary.

[Guest]

Hi fella's,
Five bent bolts, and a knackered pulley later, and the dog can see the rabbit! Phew,that was a job! Now, subject to a second opinion, I 'm pretty certain all of you who suggested the timing was a tooth advanced may be correct. Not that you get a perfect view, but to my eyesight it looks like the following: Crankshaft sproket at 12 o'clock (lug at top) Diesel pump sprocket at 12 o'clock (marked cog in line with marker on rear casing) Camshaft sprocket at approx a tooth on from 6 o'clock. The problem is there is no marker on the rear casing to exactly line up the camshaft sprocket! It looks like it should line up with a sprocket tooth but it has just passed that i.e just on the edge of the belt tooth. Does this make sense? Is there a method I can use to check the cam sproket is where I think it is? I've turned the engine round a few times and it does look as I say it is!
What's the best way to lock everything up to remove the belt?
As the belt looks undamaged and is only 4,000km old what could have happened?
Finally, what is the best method for turning the cam to the correct position?
I may be on the home straight now! thanx so far
Gary.

Gary.

There is a mark to line up the camshaft sprocket, it's is just hard to see and is at exactly 6 ocklock.

Remove the belt by losening the tensioner bolt, moving the tensioner then tightening the bolt with it completely slack on the belt. The belt should come off OK. Line up all the sprockets 1 tooth advanced (1 tooth extra clockwise). This should mean everything will stay where it is. Because of spring tension and compression, they won't all line up on the button.

Replace the timing belt with the tensioner still loose, then release the bolt to let the tensioner spring back. Tighthen the belt and then turn the engine over on the crankshaft pulley or by rocking in gear if it is a manual.

When you are happy that all the marks line up correctly then loosen the tensioner belt, allow it to find it's own position and then tighten the bolt to the correct torque.

Bolt it all up together and hopefully that is the problem cured.

I would change the belt though even if it is new, while it's apart. Belts shouldn't really be reused. Also while it is apart you might want to unbolt the tensioner completely, clean and grease it so that it slides properly in it's adjusting slot when you assembling the new belt.

Cheers

[smithg]

Timing

arky thanks for the reply,
I have a few parts that I was contemplating replacing from the Toyota main dealer and I would prefer to put a genuine timing belt on this time. (The motorquip belt was provided for me to fit with the re-built engine) Do you think these are necessary: Crankshaft pulley? I snapped off one of the locating-lugs which sit inside the bolt-holes, I know these only serve to position the outer pulleys, but this could unbalance things? The Auxiliary/jockey wheel on the A/C bracket? I've tried soaking this in WD40 but the bearings still sound a little noisy to me? Finally, is it worth buying a new spring and tensioner while I've everything stripped? And on a scale of one to ten what are the chances that this tooth or half tooth advance is definitely the problem? I understand what you are saying in relation to getting everything lined up but if the engine refuses to allow all the marks to coincide then I'm left with the same problem. The timing was one of the few jobs done by someone else and he can't remember if he had this problem. Is it worth taking the Diesel pump off now I've come this far? As you can tell by the time its taken me so far that I've precious little time to do this, and to be honest I stopped enjoying working on motors about five years ago, so I want to get this dead right! Thanks again for your help so far.
Gary.

[smithg]

Still not out of the Woods and desperate!!l

Thanks to Andy I believe! Sorry I was never any good with names!
Back to the Plot, Not good, and my patience is finally running out!
I managed to get someone with half a brain to look at the timing with me
And with the use of a straight edge we are 99% certain the timing is not out!! The marker on the tooth of the Camshaft sprocket sits less than half a tooth advanced: Put simply; the trailing-edge of the marker sprocket tooth lines up with the indicator i.e. it has just started to creep past, but the timing belt tooth is only starting to touch the indicator on the backplate! Less than half a tooth out in my opinion!
Now having checked every tooth on the belt twice,There is absolutely
no wear or damage to the belt whatsoever, and more importantly the belt tension looks spot -on, Therefore I'm convinced that nothing has changed here since the engine was timed-up before we put it in
4000KM ago!
Which takes me back to my theory of Knock sensors and Diesel pump advance and retard. The next and final throw of trhe dice is to remove the pump and get this tested, however the pump specialst is not convinced about the alleged knock sensor and advance & retard system
Unless anyone out there has any other ideas that will be the next move!
Just to reiterate, I had driven 4,000km on this rebuilt engine without a single problem, I put my Caravan on, and 5km later she cuts out dead, restarts first time but with a slght cammy-knock (Diesel-Knock?)
What odds the pump does'nt show a single fault either!
As you can tell I'm now desperate any advice would be much appreciated!
Gary.

[smithg]

More clues?

Hi all,
Before anyone thinks I was knocking the info I recieved by thanking the wrong person, I wasn't, just got the names muddled! Anyway whilst pondering my problem I remembered something slightly bizzare but maybe worth mentioning, before my disaster I filled the Surf up with a full tank of that new-fangled performance Diesel (the brand had two initials!) I remember back in the 80's when a similar product came out (petrol) it knackered the carb on the BMW I had at the time. This fuel was mysteriously withdrawn a few months later!
Now I've stripped too much kit off the engine not to get the pump tested but I wish I'd tried running her off a can of normal Diesel!
Perhaps this fuel combined with the loading of the caravan has upset the advance and retard in the pump, or the EFI computer/ECU?
any thoughts?
Gary.

[marky]

ive not experienced any problem after towing my 18ft caravan & ive done around a 1000 miles with it so far

[Guest]

Hi all,
Before anyone thinks I was knocking the info I recieved by thanking the wrong person, I wasn't, just got the names muddled! Anyway whilst pondering my problem I remembered something slightly bizzare but maybe worth mentioning, before my disaster I filled the Surf up with a full tank of that new-fangled performance Diesel (the brand had two initials!) I remember back in the 80's when a similar product came out (petrol) it knackered the carb on the BMW I had at the time. This fuel was mysteriously withdrawn a few months later!
Now I've stripped too much kit off the engine not to get the pump tested but I wish I'd tried running her off a can of normal Diesel!
Perhaps this fuel combined with the loading of the caravan has upset the advance and retard in the pump, or the EFI computer/ECU?
any thoughts?
Gary.

Gary.

You may be right that the ECU hadn't caught up and reset itself to cope with any changes. In hindsight it may have been an idea to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes or so and then reconnecting it. But then hindsight is a wonderful thing and while you have the motor apart you might as well get the pump tested / setup.

Good luck.

Cheers

[smithg]

Dodgey Fuel/ ECU / Caravan!

Thanks for the replies guys,
A couple of points; The original engine towed my van happily for well over a thousand miles. And I did try the batteries off (2 days) greased up re-connection to re-set the ECU, at least three times whilst avoiding the dismantling option, and again when sorting out (succesfully) the engine light/fault code problem. I 'll try to remove the pump this weekend any tips with this? I'll take it out at TDC (the marker at 12 o'clock) What should I scribe/ mark to ensure it goes back correctly? Should I give in and remove the Rad? as even with a mirror I really can't suss how to re -set the tension spring length without a clear view? I wanted to avoid this as I had to hacksaw off the Auto-box oil-cooler pipes last time and pour boiling water over the new pipes to re-fit them (I still bare the scars!)
Any other thoughts on why my Surf packed up?

Gary.

[smithg]

Surely someone has a view??

Still desperate! I've invested in some mirrors, which unfortunately prove my theory! The timing belt is perfect, the adjustment (spring length) exact as the book states,therefore the timing is as it was set 4000km before the problem!
I can now see the camshaft marker arrow clearly,and as I suggested it sits on the trailing edge of the marker tooth. Obviously it would be better pointing to the middle of the sprocket tooth, but its not on the belt tooth, therefore considering that the engine must settle slightly in a position, its probably not out at all! any comments before I take the pump out?
Thanks, Gary.

[stara]

i have a vague recollection of a similar problem which had a garage scratching their heads, someone posted a link to it on this site with a heading something like "may be of use" the website showed a graph with pulses, apparently the ecu was telling the injectors to fire too early or too late??? as if the timing was out, if i remember, this was causing a knocking. it basically was corrosion on the back of the ecu circuit board, (the ecu was changed,) coupled with a faulty sensor (the wiring to the sensor had been cut into a rejoined poorly and it was thought that the two wires were reversed) although i can't remeber where the sensor was fitted.....if i find the article, i'll add it to the end of this post.......................... .....

heres the link, originally posted by marky http://www.aecs.net/techniek2003/2lte.htm

[smithg]

Over Fuelling?

Thanks Marky,
This sounds more along the lines I've been thinking! However, from a visual inspection both the kick well and ECU look in perfect nick so I could probably eliminate corrosion. Up to the breakdown I'd not touched any wiring or connectors since fitting the engine. Still that leaves my theory about the "super fuel" upsetting the ECU (which should have re-set itself to cope?) or the Pumps advance and retard system being distorted and over-fuelling. I'll post this up as well, but do you think it worth sending the pump off or is there a way of eliminating the ECU? I'm still looking for a cause, and the "super fuel" combined with the loading of my caravan are the only different factors to the previous 4,000km!
Many Thanks
Gary.

[skiper210]

[I suppose that super fuel you put in was not petrol was it??????

[smithg]

Yes, Thats what EFI means!!!

Hi Folks,
An update on things; I finally removed the Diesel pump yesterday and dropped it into the Pump specialist! Oh, its electronic!!!
I was greeted with! Arrgh, thats what I've been trying to explain to all the doubters for the last Six months! Why does eveyone think my problem is engine timing (which it is not) and dismiss the fact the the LN 130 EFI T/D engine is electronically managed! Just in case my £180.00's worth of testing draws a blank, does anyone know somewhere that can test ECU'S?
Finally, yes the "super fuel" was Diesel; B.P. Ultimate, you had me going there! but as Diesel dripped all up my arms removing the pump I'm quite sure!
Cheers
Gary.