overheating

[shiny]

Hi Guys
can anyone shed some light on a overheating problem..I go about 30 miles and the temperature guage goes very hot and as i stop, i can hear a boiling sound and it seem to dump it into expansion tank..the water in the expansion tank goes down as it cools. I top it up with water when water is cooler in the radiator, and then I am ok again for about 30 to 50 miles..

It has done this for about 10 times now..I don't think its a head gasket??
my experience is when the head gasket goes its final with regard to
going anywhere..

there is no sludge in oil rocker filler, and no water coming out of the exhust
tomorrow it will do the same thing
I am trying descailer in rad but i did this about 10months ago

anyone got any ideas??

thanks guys.... Shiny

PS when topping up with water in the future should I top this up in the expansion tank?

[BUSHWHACKER]

Make sure your heater controls are set to 'hot' when you top up.

[bell end billy]

Hi Guys
can anyone shed some light on a overheating problem..I go about 30 miles and the temperature guage goes very hot and as i stop, i can hear a boiling sound and it seem to dump it into expansion tank..the water in the expansion tank goes down as it cools. I top it up with water when water is cooler in the radiator, and then I am ok again for about 30 to 50 miles..

It has done this for about 10 times now..I don't think its a head gasket??
my experience is when the head gasket goes its final with regard to
going anywhere..

there is no sludge in oil rocker filler, and no water coming out of the exhust
tomorrow it will do the same thing
I am trying descailer in rad but i did this about 10months ago

anyone got any ideas??

thanks guys.... Shiny

PS when topping up with water in the future should I top this up in the expansion tank?

What year/engine surf do you have.

[Tallyman]

No, don't top up via the expansion bottle. Wait until the water has cooled and top up through the rad cap. Make sure the water is up to the base of the cap and that there is water in the expansion bottle to at least the min mark but definitely no higher than max.

As mentioned, make sure the heater tap(s) are on hot. Useful to start up with the rad cap off to see if the water surges out. If it does, then you've got a cracked head or split gasket. If it doesn't then it's more likely that you have air in the system which is expanding as it gets hot and pushes the water out of the overflow.

[Surf Canada]

Hi Guys
can anyone shed some light on a overheating problem..I go about 30 miles and the temperature guage goes very hot and as i stop, i can hear a boiling sound and it seem to dump it into expansion tank..the water in the expansion tank goes down as it cools. I top it up with water when water is cooler in the radiator, and then I am ok again for about 30 to 50 miles..

anyone got any ideas??

thanks guys.... Shiny

PS when topping up with water in the future should I top this up in the expansion tank?

First things first, if you're overheating that quickly, STOP DRIVING THE TRUCK! or you're just asking for a cracked head if it isn't already. Pull the crankcase breather tube or PCV tube stick your finger up in the pipe and taste the fluid. If it tastes sweet or the tube is full of of white 'snot', you've got coolant in your oil which means blown head gasket or cracked head or cracked something.

If you're dumping into the overfill tank quickly, then there is a possibility of pressure getting into the system. Here's a few things to check/change.

1) Thermostat - just change it, it's cheap insurance.
2) Waterpump - pull the belt and rotate the pulley with your hand. If it feels rough or loose in any way - the pump is toast, change it. If the seal is gone you may see coolant leaking from it as well but not necessarily, however air can be drawn into the system through the leaking seal and pressurize the system.
3) Failed Fan Clutch - Can you hear the fan 'roar' if you rev the engine when it's up to temperature? When the engine is hot, shut it off and spin the fan by hand. If it feels tight or is locked up, then the clutch should be working. If it freewheels, the clutch is shot and the rad isn't being properly cooled.
3) Plugged Rad - How long has it been since the coolant was changed? Are you using the conventional 'green' stuff? If so and it's old coolant, the silica can drop out in high heat and plug your rad pretty fast. Since the rad cap is not on top of the rad you can't visually look to see potential plugging. A simple check is to drain the system and pull the upper and lower rad hoses from the engine. Direct the lower hose into a bucket and using a garden hose pour water fast into the upper hose. If it's coming out the bottom as fast as you can pour it in then you should be ok. If it's very slow or you fill the rad and the water is coming back out the top, it's plugged or plugging.

I'm not a fan of running a de-scaler in your coolant. Anything that is cleared out of the rad could potentially block something else in the system, ie your heater core.

Good luck. By the way, I recommend the 'red' coolant with NelCool in it. It's far better than the green stuff and doesn't have the problem of silica drop out. You should flush your system out with water before changing over and with a cold engine of course.

And yes, fill the system via the rad cap, but also fill the overflow tank about half full. In a good system with no air leaks, as the engine heats up the air in the system will be pushed out via the rad cap into the expansion tank. When the fluid cools in will create a vacuum which draws in the fluid from the expansion tank, completely filling the system.

Cheers,

Paul

[TonyN]

It has done this for about 10 times now..I don't think its a head gasket??
my experience is when the head gasket goes its final with regard to
going anywhere..

there is no sludge in oil rocker filler, and no water coming out of the exhust
tomorrow it will do the same thing

Its normally the head cracked, once a 2.4 has got anywhere in the red, it usually cracks.

I've never seen one that cracks to the oil chambers, so you won't get water in the oil, they all crack between the valves, and leak to the cooling system pressurising it and dumping coolant out the expansion tank, but will still run OK till it runs out of water and gets hot again.

Check all the things that been mentioned by others, but the damage has probably been done.

Get a local garage to pressure test the cooling system for you.

[wanand]

Hi

I have a 1991 2.4 and just gone/going through the same pain. About 2 weeks ago the it overheated and the head cracked and therefore changed. Got the car back and it was still overheating, the rad was getting hot one side and staying cool the other. This was changed for a increased efficiency core. The rad was fitted and still overheating!! The garage are now telling me it could be the block thats cracked!! So its about to be removed and pressure tested.

Is it common for the block to crack as well or am I being taken for a ride?

[Koi]

Hi

I have a 1991 2.4 and just gone/going through the same pain. About 2 weeks ago the it overheated and the head cracked and therefore changed. Got the car back and it was still overheating, the rad was getting hot one side and staying cool the other. This was changed for a increased efficiency core. The rad was fitted and still overheating!! The garage are now telling me it could be the block thats cracked!! So its about to be removed and pressure tested.

Is it common for the block to crack as well or am I being taken for a ride?

A pressure test should tell if the sysytems pressurising, would double check it aint air locks.

[shiny]

Thanks everyone

A pressure test should tell if the sysytems pressurising, would double check it aint air locks.

Yep my fan you can twist around and there is no tight feel..

I have now taken it into the garage for 1 fuse blowing on glowplugs
2 Overheating and 3 turbo boost trouble.. i know when i am beat..how come these things only seem to go wrong after one has spent money on a new stainless steel exhust..new tyres..and a subwoofer CD system

But thanks for all the sound advice guys i have passed this advice on to the garage and printed out all the options who said they will investigate for a minimum charge..thats nice

hey to all you coolant troubled overheaters out there lets have a gathering..bet non turn up cause they have overboiled Best wishes Shiny

[poppy986]

Sorry to hear that Pete, sound like the head has gone,mine did
the same on and off till it finaly went.
I take you have tried the obvious themostat etc.
I know its a pain but my old girl is a very diferent beast since
the head was done,goes to show how long it was suffering before.
Still cheaper than a new one,but not as good looking I like
the 2nd gen compiared with the newer type.

Good luck mate see u around
Chris

[shiny]

Sorry to hear that Pete, sound like the head has gone,mine did
the same on and off till it finaly went.
I take you have tried the obvious themostat etc.
I know its a pain but my old girl is a very diferent beast since
the head was done,goes to show how long it was suffering before.
Still cheaper than a new one,but not as good looking I like
the 2nd gen compiared with the newer type.

Good luck mate see u around
Chris

Hello Poppy
Yep i may just bite the bullet and have to get me smurf head done before I need a new head myself..I thought I got a speeding ticket a month ago from a camera flash but that was 5 weeks ago, am i in the clear do you think?

See you on the road Best of luck Shiny

[andy hunt]

i had an overheating problem mine was a blocked rad, cracked head, thermostat had gone and the head gasket had gone