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  • Changing engines

    Hi Guys,

    I'm new to this forum and would appreciate a little help. I'm more used to all things Land Rover related and I'm not shy of wielding my spanners in anger so this post is more of a check and help for others possibly.
    I have aquired from a friend a 1993 2.4 Surf auto with the usual head problem. The engine I think is past repair as the top of the bore on No. 4 cylinder is very badly pitted. I do however have a another 2.4 1991 model surf with a good engine and running gear, however the owner managed to roll it - twice! The second accident has caused the engine to stop turning over (Hydraulic lock I think). It is my intention to swap the engines over and I have stripped most of the damaged one in preparation of this but there seems to be many, many wires ect attached its a bit daunting!
    Has anyone here done a swap like this before and what are the pitfalls to avoid? And yes, I have a complete 1991 Hilux available for spares if anyone needs anything - including 2 sets of alloys.

    Thanks!

    Ash

  • #2
    Are they both EFI engines??
    (\__/)
    (='.'=) SQUIRREL MUNCHER GRRRRRRR
    (")_(")

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by marky
      Are they both EFI engines??
      Yes Marky they are.

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      • #4
        Then use a camera to trace your steps as you remove components & wires etc. Some of the others have had engines out etc so they will give more advise later.
        (\__/)
        (='.'=) SQUIRREL MUNCHER GRRRRRRR
        (")_(")

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        • #5
          Two pieces of advice I can offer, having pulled my engine and put it back in:

          Split the gearbox from the engine pre lift, it's a lot easier to get out and re-joining was a cinch for me, about 20 mins of wiggling the gearbox around and she slipped straight on (oo-er)

          When you disconnect stuff, label it! And take photo's in-situ.
          Although nearly all the plugs/connectors are different shapes, so it's pretty hard to mis-connect them, I didn't label anything and only had to ponder a couple of connections, but then my background is motorcycle mechanics so I'm used to acres of wires and connectors!

          Oh yeah, take your time, don't try to rush it-it hurts if you do!
          Life is not a dress rehearsal
          1996 3.0 SSR-G 5-speed
          (Auto's are for the indecisive!!)

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          • #6
            Just one silly question (just before I life out the "old" unit) - do I have to remove the starter motor and undo the bolts to the torque converter band before splitting engine and gearbox, or can I just remove it and it stay in place?

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            • #7
              Starter motor needs to come off anyway if your splitting the engine/gearbox. Torque converter will slide of the gearbox input spline when the 2 are parted, leaving it bolted to the flex plate.
              4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

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              • #8
                Okay, I've managed to remove the first engine from the car, however this one was already minus its head and bits and all I needed to remove was the turbo and rest that was attached to the block.

                The second engine is still in the car and I don't like the idea of stripping it down to remove it but it would seem that I have no option - unless one of you guys knows something I don't? I'd rather be able to whip it out complete but the more I go into it the more it looks like I'm going to have to remove the head to get at the bolts, earth strap etc at the back near the bulkhead - that kinda defeats the object and I'd have probably in hindsight have been better off swapping the heads over rather than the engines!

                Any ideas??

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by justamin
                  Okay, I've managed to remove the first engine from the car, however this one was already minus its head and bits and all I needed to remove was the turbo and rest that was attached to the block.

                  The second engine is still in the car and I don't like the idea of stripping it down to remove it but it would seem that I have no option - unless one of you guys knows something I don't? I'd rather be able to whip it out complete but the more I go into it the more it looks like I'm going to have to remove the head to get at the bolts, earth strap etc at the back near the bulkhead - that kinda defeats the object and I'd have probably in hindsight have been better off swapping the heads over rather than the engines!

                  Any ideas??
                  Don't be daft, of course you don't need to strip the engine to remove it!!!

                  Using the two hooks attached to the block, attach your engine hoist
                  take up the slack then stuff jack under gearbox and take up the slack.
                  Remove all engine mounting bolts and undo bolts attaching gearbox support to chassis.(remove front and rear drive shaftes as well oh and the exhaust!) Now using spanners and sockets undo all bolts on bell housing, this last requires no small amount of patience and swearing, tis a fiddly task!

                  As the engine is now free of chassis, it gives you a bit of room to pull it forward in engine bay(REMOVE THE RADIATOR BEFORE YOU DO THIS) to improve access to those pesky bell housing bolts.

                  Once all bolts removed-double check you have them all out, including the one that goes through the starter motor, you can then crawl underneath and pull gearbox off, hey presto, assuming everything else has been detached from engine(air con compressor, fuel lines etc) you can lift it out-note you will need to angle front of engine upwards to clear the engine bay at rear, have fun-dont drop it!!
                  Life is not a dress rehearsal
                  1996 3.0 SSR-G 5-speed
                  (Auto's are for the indecisive!!)

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Pete The Tart
                    Don't be daft, of course you don't need to strip the engine to remove it!!!

                    Using the two hooks attached to the block, attach your engine hoist
                    take up the slack then stuff jack under gearbox and take up the slack.
                    Remove all engine mounting bolts and undo bolts attaching gearbox support to chassis.(remove front and rear drive shaftes as well oh and the exhaust!) Now using spanners and sockets undo all bolts on bell housing, this last requires no small amount of patience and swearing, tis a fiddly task!

                    As the engine is now free of chassis, it gives you a bit of room to pull it forward in engine bay(REMOVE THE RADIATOR BEFORE YOU DO THIS) to improve access to those pesky bell housing bolts.

                    Once all bolts removed-double check you have them all out, including the one that goes through the starter motor, you can then crawl underneath and pull gearbox off, hey presto, assuming everything else has been detached from engine(air con compressor, fuel lines etc) you can lift it out-note you will need to angle front of engine upwards to clear the engine bay at rear, have fun-dont drop it!!
                    DOH!

                    Many thanks Pete! I was considering pulling both engine and gearbox out as a unit when I posted, but what you've suggested makes better sense.
                    I'll see if I can invent any more new swear words on this one and let you know when its done.

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                    • #11
                      Okay, the Saga continues.....

                      I have managed to remove the second engine!!

                      However......

                      I still cannot turn it over, possibly there is still oil in the top of the bores and on inspection I think the first engine is in better condition. Its definetly cleaner and the bores show no signs of wear and still have the criss-cross from the manufacturing in them. The only thing that worried me is cylinder number four has a lot of pitting and corrosion at the top where it meets the head but on reading through past posts it would seem that the experts concur that if it is above the compression ring it does not matter?

                      So, I am after all going to have to remove the head on the "good" engine and make a perfick one out of the two.

                      Points to note on this project so far:

                      1) A set of rachet spanners is invaluable!
                      2) You DO need to strip all the pumps, hoses, clamps, wires etc off the outside of the engine (I didn't remove everything as it was a scrapper, but I still had a hard time)
                      3) If you have access to air tools and a ramp the job is made easier (Dear Santa. Please could I have a 2-post lift this year? I have been very good and the swear box is swollen...)

                      regards

                      Ash

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