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Cannot delay it anymore!

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  • Cannot delay it anymore!

    Its no good chaps, theres no getting away from it, my head will have to be replaced.
    After doing everything possible to cure my coolant problems nothing has worked. To be honest, I`ve come to the conclusion that after all the flushes, thermostat changes and everything else that can be tried, if your baby shows signs of having a problem its a waste of time trying to delay the inevitable. GET THE HEAD CHANGED!!!!!!!!.
    My 2.4 is now lossing water at an alarming rate. The coolant erupts out of the thermostat housing as soon as the engine is started and with the cap on, the water in the expansion tank goes a funny milky colour (exaust gases I think!) and the pressure in the system forces the level up until it pours from the overflow.
    So now more money to be found to throw at Mr Toyota for a replacement head. The question is do I try to find the time to do it myself, or do I Treble the cost and get someone else to do it. Either way, I`m beginning to wonder if I made the right decision to do what I`ve wanted to do for a long time, to own a Toyota Surf. After all said and done its costing me a bl***y fortune!.

    Finally, if I decide to do it myself could someone put me in the picture as to what I`ll need apert from the new head. I know I`ll need new stretch bolts and gaskets but does the head come complete with valve seats etc etc. I also have to find out if I need the head with an off set cam or not.
    Would be gratefull if one of you could perhaps supply me with a list of all that is required, and the cost

  • #2
    mmmm

    once ya heads sorted im sure you will realse getting a surf was a good idea all the best with it
    black n tan
    black n tan
    yes i am a dobermann man

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    • #3
      Cannot delay it anymore!

      Have a look at the technical pages there is some guidlines on there to browse through...

      My head from UKcylinder heads came to £800 new with the bolts and gasket set. Now all i got to do is fit the damn thing...

      But make sure you get your rad pressure tested otherwise your warranty is void...
      Im not a gynacologist but ill have a look

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      • #4
        read Lucky's write-up:

        http://www.yotasurf.com/Andy/Toyota%...eplacement.htm

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        • #5
          Write up and some pics on the main web site.
          Yes head comes complete ready to bolt on, well it does from UK cylinder heads. Milners is just the bare head.
          Say not always what you know, but always know what you say.

          My 4x4
          My choice
          Back off

          Comment


          • #6
            The tech write up is fine as far as it goes, it just isn't detailed enough.
            When you start taking things apart try to be methodical and label stuff even bolts/nuts, it really is tedious trying to find the right bolts/nuts for each part.
            The inlet manifold side of the engine is tricky if you do not make notes of where all the small bore pipework goes and also it is so much easier to remove the EGR pipe that runs to the rear of the head if you unbolt the exhaust pipe at the union and resilient mount under the car first.
            A digital camera would be a brilliant way of keeping notes.
            Have fun, I am in the middle of putting mine back together bit by bit each weekend....Have fun you can do it.

            PS Find TDC and do not move any of the toothed pulleys especially the fuel pump and crank, keep them on their respective marks...
            How much!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by waveydavey
              The tech write up is fine as far as it goes, it just isn't detailed enough.
              When you start taking things apart try to be methodical and label stuff even bolts/nuts, it really is tedious trying to find the right bolts/nuts for each part.
              The inlet manifold side of the engine is tricky if you do not make notes of where all the small bore pipework goes and also it is so much easier to remove the EGR pipe that runs to the rear of the head if you unbolt the exhaust pipe at the union and resilient mount under the car first.
              A digital camera would be a brilliant way of keeping notes.
              Have fun, I am in the middle of putting mine back together bit by bit each weekend....Have fun you can do it.

              PS Find TDC and do not move any of the toothed pulleys especially the fuel pump and crank, keep them on their respective marks...
              OI!!!!!.

              No you're right, I've still got some work to do on the write up and put some pictures on it as well.

              One thing to make sure is that you have all the correct tools. There are a couple of bolts that are impossible to get without a ring spanner (you need 12 and 14mm ones. Also doing things in the right order helps like removing the bolts and nuts from the turbo connection to the exhaust and exhaust manifold and pulling it upwards before trying to undo the oil inlet to the turbo. Also remove all the studs from the turbo to exhaust manifold connection otherwise its a pain to replace the turbo.

              The worst nuts to undo are the rear two on the inlet manifold, the rear one on the exhaust manifold and the 4 holding on the viscous fan. Apart from that it is relatively easy, just time consuming. Took me 14 hours for my one and Koi and I 10 hours for his, both split over a couple of days.

              Cheers

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              • #8
                Good advice from Waveydavey spend as much time before as it needs before you take the head off labelling everything you disconnect - at both ends. My head went and it caused water damage to the bores so I had too strip the engine and send it away to get machined. If anybody has to take the motor out I found it easier to take the head off and then removing the block and vice versa when sticking it back in. It makes it easier to access the mounts and the pipes and cables attached to the block. Watch out for the electrical connections some are very easily snapped off.

                91 SSR Ltd(New turbo. head, pistons, big end & mains and all the other wee bits)

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                • #9
                  Just out of interest chaps, what actually is the design fault with the 2.4 head and ( at the moment I`m getting the bits together to do the job ) what guarantee is there that although I ask for a new head, not a recon one, the new head doesn`t have the same design fault as the old head. I do not want this to happen again so will the overheating problem be eradicated or could this happen again?. Rough Trax in Bristol have said that they can supply me with a new head, complete with valves etc, but again does a new head mean a new redesigned head without the fault?.


                  regards
                  Tich

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by tich
                    Just out of interest chaps, what actually is the design fault with the 2.4 head and ( at the moment I`m getting the bits together to do the job ) what guarantee is there that although I ask for a new head, not a recon one, the new head doesn`t have the same design fault as the old head. I do not want this to happen again so will the overheating problem be eradicated or could this happen again?. Rough Trax in Bristol have said that they can supply me with a new head, complete with valves etc, but again does a new head mean a new redesigned head without the fault?.


                    regards
                    Tich
                    I think, though I could be wrong, that the waterways were made too close to the head surface which didn't give enough substance to cope with the heat, cool, heat cycle.

                    Cheers

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      mine was caused by cavitation , which is when the water seepes into the cast iron and turns to steam and blows tiny bits of it out and it keeps getting worse till the head is fully knackered. you will know if it has happened to yours when you get it off as it looks all rough and crumbled not nice and smooth
                      so much to do , so little money , so little time

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by tich
                        Just out of interest chaps, what actually is the design fault with the 2.4 head and ( at the moment I`m getting the bits together to do the job ) what guarantee is there that although I ask for a new head, not a recon one, the new head doesn`t have the same design fault as the old head. I do not want this to happen again so will the overheating problem be eradicated or could this happen again?. Rough Trax in Bristol have said that they can supply me with a new head, complete with valves etc, but again does a new head mean a new redesigned head without the fault?.


                        regards
                        Tich

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by tich
                          Just out of interest chaps, what actually is the design fault with the 2.4 head and ( at the moment I`m getting the bits together to do the job ) what guarantee is there that although I ask for a new head, not a recon one, the new head doesn`t have the same design fault as the old head. I do not want this to happen again so will the overheating problem be eradicated or could this happen again?. Rough Trax in Bristol have said that they can supply me with a new head, complete with valves etc, but again does a new head mean a new redesigned head without the fault?.


                          regards
                          Tich
                          So am I safe in assuming that this will not happen again !!!!!
                          PLEASE say it won`t !!!!!!!!

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