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  • Head's off, bores suspect?

    Ok, chaps, finally took the plunge and decided to take the head off. After most of Friday, Saturday and today (Sunday), I have the head sitting on the bench.

    To be honest I'm not really sure what I'm looking at but I can see that there is a lot of pitting around the tops of number 2 and 4 cylinders on the block. Big cracks in the head too, between most of the valves. Check out the images, I know there's a lot of experience here with this kind of thing.

    Thanks to Lucky for his instructions, I couldn't have done it without them. I have say that sentences such as "Remove the bolts and nuts from the inlet manifold and remove the inlet manifold" do not help at all! what about all the fuel injection stuff, glow plugs, odd electrical connections, wierd little pipes etc!!!

    Seriously though, thanks for that. Especially the tip about using the idler stay bar as a method of stopping the crank from turning.

    Spoke to Stevo on Friday, going to ring again tomorrow. If I lived in Manchester I would have taken the car straight round to him.

    Thanks,

    Jon.
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    Last edited by Jon S; 11 April 2005, 21:08.

  • #2
    Originally posted by Jon S
    Ok, chaps, finally took the plunge and decided to take the head off. After most of Friday, Saturday and today (Sunday), I have the head sitting on the bench.

    To be honest I'm not really sure what I'm looking at but I can see that there is a lot of pitting around the tops of number 2 and 4 cylinders on the block. Big cracks in the head too, between most of the valves. Check out the images, I know there's a lot of experience here with this kind of thing.

    Thanks to Lucky for his instructions, I couldn't have done it without them. I have say that sentences such as "Remove the bolts and nuts from the inlet manifold and remove the inlet manifold" do not help at all! what about all the fuel injection stuff, glow plugs, odd electrical connections, wierd little pipes etc!!!

    Seriously though, thanks for that. Especially the tip about using the idler stay bar as a method of stopping the crank from turning.

    Spoke to Stevo on Friday, going to ring again tomorrow. If I lived in Manchester I would have taken the car straight round to him.

    Thanks,

    Jon.
    You will find some corrosion at the top of the BORES as long as its above the ring line it should be ok. The corrosion is usually due to the head leaking water into the bores in the early stages of head failure.
    (\__/)
    (='.'=) SQUIRREL MUNCHER GRRRRRRR
    (")_(")

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    • #3
      Originally posted by marky
      You will find some corrosion at the top of the BORES as long as its above the ring line it should be ok. The corrosion is usually due to the head leaking water into the bores in the early stages of head failure.

      If its complete engine you get the sweatshirt.
      Still waiting for mine.
      well done for the DIY approach wish I had done the same 7weeks and £600 labour later..

      Good Luck

      Steve
      Should have bought a 3ltr

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      • #4
        My bores are SERIOUSLY corroded. Only #1 cylinder was ok. Also you can see from the head picutre that there's no way those valves were sealing.

        There's clear evidence that head failed before I got it and someone just put another gasket on it to sell it. Spoke to Steve yesterday and he says that he sees that a lot.

        I'm now REALLY scared as I've just ordered a new engine (~£2K) and this is the first time I've ever really picked up a set of spanners. Who dares wins eh Rodders?!?!

        I was impressed with Steve, he's offered me all the advice I need and he does inspire confidence. I guess I'll find out!

        Cheers,

        Jon.

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