Bearing removal

[broseph]

Looking for some pointers in regard to pulling wheel bearings. Never changed a bearing before... What sort of puller will I need to change the inner and outer front hub bearings on my 2nd gen?

Any input appreciated. Thanks

[pyemaster]

To do without a prybar and buggering up seals, you can put a hub nut back on a couple of threads and pull back sharply to bang it out flat. Depends if it's been changed before and how tight it's seated.

Owen

[NiftyNev]

No puller needed. Just a punch to knock out old cups and preferably a brass drift to install new ones. If you've never done tapered roller bearings before I suggest you get someone who has experience to help. You have to get the adjustment right.

Nev.

[broseph]

No puller needed. Just a punch to knock out old cups and preferably a brass drift to install new ones. If you've never done tapered roller bearings before I suggest you get someone who has experience to help. You have to get the adjustment right.

Nev.

This is the procedure I was going to follow. I don't have a spring tension guage but had read elsewhere that mechanics rarely even ever check the preload.

5. ADJUST PRELOAD
(a) Using SST, torque the adjusting nut.
SST 09607–60020
Torque: 59 N–m (600 kgf–cm, 43 ft–lbf)
(b) Turn the hub right and left 2 or 3 times.
(c) Loosen the nut until it can be turned by hand.
(d) Using SST, retighten the adjusting nut.
SST 09607–60020
Torque: 25 N–m (250 kgf–cm, 18 ft–lbf)

[NiftyNev]

Never used a torque wrench. I just tighten the nut firmly to seat the bearings and turn the hub as suggested, then back off the nut so I feel end play, then tighten the nut till end play is just eliminated. All done by feel. You can adjust end float with a dial gauge. I never really "preload" tapered bearings because I believe they need a little clearance. Just a thou or two. Just be sure you pack the bearing with grease correctly and do not fill the hub with grease. Too much grease causes overheating.

Nev.

[Diezel Weazel]

No puller needed. Just a punch to knock out old cups and preferably a brass drift to install new ones. If you've never done tapered roller bearings before I suggest you get someone who has experience to help. You have to get the adjustment right.

Nev.

A good experienced mechanic will tell ya just like Nev has ..


16+ Years of Surfs n 9 years on Spotless it ain't but Faultless to a "T" is my KZN 130 Yota !!

[broseph]

Thanks for the help.

I'll let you know if my wheels fall off or seize up in the coming months.

[broseph]

Bearings changed without issue. Much nicer to drive now, more precise, less wandering. The old ones looked fine but were far too loose, tightening them up probably would have sufficed. Nevertheless, glad I now know that changing bearings is something I can do myself.

A brass drift would have made the job easier. Ended up re purposing the brass (Or other, soft metal?) screw off of my g-clamp to knock the races out/put the new ones in.

The seals were ar**hole tight, pry bar got them out easily but destroyed them in the process (Had new ones anyway)

The hubs were jam packed with grease on disassemble but I didn't replicate that on reassembling. Just a lining of grease as you recommended, Nev.

[Diezel Weazel]

Well done that man....

16+ Years of Surfs n 9 years on Spotless it ain't but Faultless to a "T" is my KZN 130 Yota !!