Gearbox swap has stalled

[MudSurfer]

Hello wise ones. I have started the gearbox swap, and all I have to do is drop it to get to the last four bolts, but I cant.

I assume you need to remove the bit where the front prop goes into, with the 17mm bolt inside? If so, how? I locked the brakes on by jamming the pedal down, so the wheels didn't turn, but when trying to loosen it, it just sounds like I'm about to knacker the front dif.

So, how do I get that out of the way so I can drop the box to get to the last bolts, and is there a clever way to get the UJs out too? I figured I'd change them all while I had it in the air and the props off, but got the end of one off and that's it....

I'd really like to finish this tomorrow, but if I need anything for the bolt then I'm stuck.

Thanks enormous amounts in advance for tips, suggestions, help, advice.

[tweak'e]

pics help so we can see what your on about.
what model surf and what gearbox is it?

[surfenstein]

Slide a long bar in between the u/j and lock the bar off against the ramp or part of the chassis then try and undo the carden joint. Uj are easy I did a write up somewhere on how to remove and replace. Will find it for you .

[MudSurfer]

Cheers Mark - how do I get the gearbox off though? I'll have to get a photo in a minute.

there you go:

[surfenstein]

LOL sorry Andy forgot you had a hair dressers car. Put two of the bolts back in the flange next to one another slide bar through bolts. lock bar against ramp or chassis. undo pinion nut with torque wrench, keep adjusting wrench in stages of 10 Nm / ibft until it clicks as the nut moves.This will ensure that when you re-tighten the pinion nut back up it should leave the pinion backlash as set by toyota. you will also notice that the tag on the nut should line up with the key in the end of the pinion shaft just go slightly past this tag and peen it back to the shaft.You will also have to drain a little bit of oil from the diff, But before you do that are you sure the box won't slide back and twist over the flange.???

[Storm]

the last bolts the ones at the top?. i used a flexi spanner going in from above engine and bulkhead its a pain but you can do it



what about lowering the front diff just two bolts and it will move down about 2"

same as putting diff lowering kit in would that help you

i had to remove anti roll bar too

used very long bar with a flexi socket on it

[MudSurfer]

cheers guys!! back to it after breakfast now the farm jobs are done and the fishermen are all fed and happy!

And, it's Nina's truck, not mine, but she has very kindly allowed me to change the gearbox for her. She's very thoughtful like that.

[MudSurfer]

How does the flange come off?

[tweak'e]

leave the flange on the diff ! you don't want to be screwing around with the diff.

i don't have the book for that model.
i can't tell in the pic if there is enough room for the bell housing to come back then shift sideway to clear it.
otherwise i would look at the diff mounting and unbolt the rear mount(s) allowing the flange end to drop down to give clearance.

not sure what you mean by can't get the last 4 bolts. it looks like all the bolts are off on that side.

[MudSurfer]

I have managed to get to all bar the top two bolts, I can reach them, but can't undo them. I have a transmission jack arriving tomorrow, so once that's here I'll get it under (and replace the setup I'm currently using).

What I did manage to do was take the two bolts that hold the front stabiliser bars of the diff out, so it will move a little. Once the jack is in place, I'll see if that gives me enough clearance (once I've put the retaining nut back on the flange).

I also got a front ARB drop link changed while scratching my head over the gearbox issues. Still no luck on the UJs, but I'll keep at it.

[surfenstein]

To undo the top two bolts I use a standard socket with a u/ j and a load of extensions clipped together so that the ratchet clips on just before the transfer case. And give it some welly.

[surfenstein]

http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/index.php?doc=269 found this for you andy. Ignore the expensive puller just replace with a vice.

[MudSurfer]

To undo the top two bolts I use a standard socket with a u/ j and a load of extensions clipped together so that the ratchet clips on just before the transfer case. And give it some welly.

I just need a 1/2" extension, since the 3/8" isn't quite cutting it.

Thanks for the link too mate, I'll use the vice and a lump hammer and 'tap' them out

[surfenstein]

Yea they will be tight, so 1/2" will do the job.

[MudSurfer]

Right - all bolts are off, all (we think) electrical connections off, the panel where the transfer and gear lever go through is off, the transmission is approx. 1 - 1 1/2 inches away from the engine, and it won't come off still. We can see the toothed flywheel in the gap, but it simply won't come away.

What are we missing?

I think what I'll do is take the transfer off the back later today or tomorrow, of course this will mean more gaskets needed, but at least it should give me a little more room to play with - but the one I am fitting is whole, so how the hell did that come off in one piece?

Yours oily, frustrated, tired and ####ed off of Warwickshire.