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  • #16
    I used Pirtek Reading to do my power steering and aircon pipes...

    I have also used copper pipe in the past on a supra for the ATF cooler, and it outlasted the engine
    More Lift.
    More Tyres.
    More Engine.

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    • #17
      Good to know.

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      • #18
        The transmission coolant pipes only run at between 7 to 14 psi oil proof hose and clips will make a reasonable repair providing they don't chafe anywhere.
        ionic SURFactant

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        • #19
          +1 for copper pipes. Mine cost about £15 from the plumber's merchants.
          Surf if you got a wave. Wave if you got a Surf.™

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          • #20
            Originally posted by steved View Post
            The transmission coolant pipes only run at between 7 to 14 psi oil proof hose and clips will make a reasonable repair providing they don't chafe anywhere.
            Originally posted by J i m s t e r View Post
            +1 for copper pipes. Mine cost about £15 from the plumber's merchants.
            mm, I'm pulling them off tomorrow so once I know what they look like I may be tempted by the plumbers....

            I don't supose you know the threads used?

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            • #21
              Originally posted by andyverran View Post
              mm, I'm pulling them off tomorrow so once I know what they look like I may be tempted by the plumbers....

              I don't supose you know the threads used?
              Do you have an idea of the general location of the leak ?

              The copper pipe is still there if you need it.
              Eat.Sleep.Surf.Repeat.

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              • #22
                Originally posted by shokenore View Post
                Do you have an idea of the general location of the leak ?

                The copper pipe is still there if you need it.
                I don't really...it's running down the pipe towards the right side gearbox joint...I don't have the best view of whats nearer the front...Its all very rusty though in the pipe department, same as the rear heater pipes (though I have some of those 'left over' from the last one)...so I kinda figure if I'm going to moneky with it best to replace with something that's not rusty...

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                • #23
                  When(if) you find the leak and its just a pin hole you could clean up the pipe and run some silver solder over it.
                  Eat.Sleep.Surf.Repeat.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by shokenore View Post
                    When(if) you find the leak and its just a pin hole you could clean up the pipe and run some silver solder over it.
                    Yeah...it will depend on what I find...and to a degree what I can get done in time I have, it's my main wheels bar push bike.

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                    • #25
                      Well....got most of it undone, then I get to the joints with the gearbox....
                      If I hang off my spanner I could easily round those off and they aren't budging

                      Off to the tip with some plastic trim and pop in to B&Q for some gas and try heating it I guess.
                      Last edited by andyverran; 24 May 2014, 13:26.

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                      • #26
                        phew...another of lifes problems solved by fire...pipes off, back to the plumbing section tomorrow to see if I can find some bits.

                        @shokenore
                        Pipes are very rusted bud, I wouldn't want to repair those...

                        I see now that the gearbox end is flared, so the nut is just applying pressure to get a seal...if I use plumbing bits I won't have that flare, so the olive and the threads will have to provide the seal...some white loctite might help I guess (I have some luckily).

                        The rubber hoses are also knackered, might not be able to get that in B&Q!

                        A gander round the interweb produces BSPP 3/8 thread..
                        http://www.ryco.com.au/index.php?id=218

                        Had a little measure and the ID and OD are within a 10th of mine (probably rust/dirt/errors by me) and its 9 thread in 0.5 of an inch...so 19 threads in an inch seems reasonable...

                        Just got to resolve the flared pipe....
                        Looks like I will be buying a flaring tool of some sort and having a bash at the copper pipe solution...
                        Last edited by andyverran; 25 May 2014, 01:09.

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                        • #27
                          Tonights confession...

                          Made a pipe...well, as best I could anyway...flared the end lovely...guess the deliberate mistake?

                          Cut off said flare...and blinking well did it again!! and still left the nut off...

                          take 3...after 2 decent flares made a pigs ear of it...and now there's no length left to cut it off. but the nut is on

                          It's not great but might do, I'll try fitting it tomorrow and see how we go.
                          Attached Files

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                          • #28
                            Looking like you have had some success.

                            That corroded pipe does look a bit beyond its use by date.

                            Good find on the pipe/thread sizing.

                            It's nice having a win every now and again.
                            Eat.Sleep.Surf.Repeat.

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                            • #29
                              Pipe one loosly in place...
                              Pipe 2 made...better bends this time and I remembered the nut first time!
                              Attached Files

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                              • #30
                                All screwed on and the truck lives again, it has thrown up some issues on my truck though that's for another thread...some issues for anyone doing the same thing:

                                1 - Don't bother replicating all Mr Toyotas bends, just do the major ones, the others can easily be added by hand as you clip them up. I found the minor ones were not needed and actually made fitting it harder.

                                2 - Tape 2 layers of insulation tape over the area you think the clips will be on the pipe BEFORE trying to fit them, I did it the other way round and now can't get my hands in to tape them, so my pipes will vibrate in the clips and wear through. I need the truck this afternoon to chop up a tree, so will leave them on and solve this with a little spray foam next week, but would have been better to do it right.

                                3 - If you can pay someone else do! Actually I don't really mean that, if your on a budget and already own the flare tool it's not bad, 2 hours on your back in the drive.
                                Last edited by andyverran; 31 May 2014, 14:35.

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