Double disaster?

[fsaroyster]

Decided I'd have a crack at replacing my brake hoses with the SS braided hoses from RoughTrax this afternoon.

First disaster, as I was tightening up the lower pipe into the new braided hose I've managed to round of the nut, so can't do it up or undo it! I even went out and bought a nice new flared spanner specifically for the job, the nuts were quite rusty/crusty so maybe just due to age?

So I've now removed the old brake pipe from the caliper completely, as I was unable to remove it from the new hose. Is it 'just' a case of me getting a new brake hose made up and fitting this and away I go, or will this be more involved, other things to consider. This is all after I manage to get the busted brake pipe out of the new hose first, I'm hoping I've not cross-threaded the new hose or something stupid, I think it was a case of being an old rusty brake pipe nut.

So disaster number 2, this could be a bigger issue, at least in the long run, and certainly won't make putting the new hoses on any easier. When I'd given up, I put the wheel back on and as I was doing up the locking wheel nut, my foot slipped off of the tyre wrench I've managed to bend the ###### locking nut key, so it now no longer fits back in the lock nut, what's the story here? Should I be able to get a replacement locking nut key? I've no idea of brand or anything, they've got a number on there, but nothing else to go on? I'll have to see if Si (previous owner) can shed any light on this...

Not a happy bunny...

Rog

[muddle]

Get a decent set of mole grips and tighten the union up. A decent set that clamps flat. Dont get cheap ones, they're not worth it. You can do it up as tight as you would with a spanner but if you dont want to do it this way, you need to buy and make a new brake pipe or flare a new union onto the end.

With the locker, post a pic, most of them you can bang a socket over the end and remove them. To be honest, they're a waste of time and nothing but hassle.

[fsaroyster]

Cheers for the advice Muddle. Are these the sort of mole grips you're referring to? Also I'll need to replace the brake pipe its knackered, is this something I could do myself with the right tools? Pipe bender and flaring tool? I've seen people mention they've used copper pipe for their brake lines.

Looking for the wheel locking nut tool, I've found a pic of what could be a similar set for sale at RoughTrax, so it might be worth me giving them a call, or maybe an email of the kit and see if they're able to get me a replacement.

Thanks again

Rog

[muddle]

Nope they are needle nosed ones, no good. As with the locker,you can bang a socket over the centre of that to undo it.

[muddle]

These ones http://www.my-tool-shed.co.uk/p8830/...Fc3HtAodTXAAng

Make sure they're branded mole grips or vise grips.

[MWS]

Vise Grips are the best. Been using the same ones for donkeys years.

[fsaroyster]

Well I've almost recovered, disaster recovery?

Anyway, neighbour came out and saw me struggling and managed to reshape the locking wheel nut so that I've been able to remove the wheels again, going to get a new set when I get paid at the end of next week though.

As for the brakes, I was on my way over to Halfrauds and ToolStation to pick up various tools and bits to make my own brake lines, decided to pop into the local little car place on the way, just in case he had some bit cheaper, turns out he make brake lines, so I gut a pair made up for the front brakes, £3 each

Came home, fitted those, and spent the rest of the afternoon battling with the rear hose, man what a git that is, still not managed to get the retaining clip in properly, any suggestions/tips on this will be greatly received, other than that I need to bleed everything, then I'll be done

Thanks

Rog

[si tate]

You do know how to bleed them properly don't you Rog?

Not being sarky when I ask this.

[fsaroyster]

Honester answer Si, is I was just going to get a mate to do the brake pedal method whilst I crawl around under the truck opening and closing each bleed nipple, following Mr Bushwhackers bleed order below. But if you have some tips/advice/etc I'm all ears

Also I plan on replacing the brake fluid as I do this, so I've seen people use a turkey baster to remove the majority of fluid from the master cylinder, not so that its dry, lets say 80% taken out, then fill it up with your new fluid, then begin bleeding, once each corner shows signs of the new fluid you're done, obviously topping up as you go.

Bleeding order:

Near side rear.
Off side rear.
Near side front.
Off side front.

[si tate]

Yep, all above is correct mate.


No doubt you'll manage to mangle something though.