Whilst changing a wheel...

[Wolfracer]

... I noticed the CV boot had come off. On closer inspection there were 5 "Maltesers" sat inside it.
I assume I need a couple of these?
http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=16&cid=146&vid=225
Can anyone confirm the diagnosis and possible reason for failure?

[TonyN]

Can anyone confirm the diagnosis and possible reason for failure?

The same answer I seem to give to nearly all your posts recently, TO MUCH FRONT LIFT!!



Lower it a bit, or don't go offroad

[Wolfracer]

The same answer I seem to give to nearly all your posts recently, TO MUCH FRONT LIFT!!



Lower it a bit, or don't go offroad

Erm, this is the new one... uprated TB's in the middle of the bump stop travel up and down...
It has got BJ spacers, and pretty sure it's not got a diff drop....

[Albannach]

It has got BJ spacers, and pretty sure it's not got a diff drop....

Too much lift.

[TonyN]

I know, but the new one looked taller than your old one in pictures.

Maybe the CV cage just broke up due to right foot excesses, they're arn't overly strong, especially on full lock, even with no lift.

But a lifted truck, with 33's, and a V8. You're lucky it lasted this long.



Seriously, if the cage has broken then it could be any or all of the above, but if the balls have fallen out and the cage is fine, then its definatly over flexed, cos thats how you take them apart anyway.

[Wolfracer]

I know, but the new one looked taller than your old one in pictures.

Maybe the CV cage just broke up due to right foot excesses, they're arn't overly strong, especially on full lock, even with no lift.

But a lifted truck, with 33's, and a V8. You're lucky it lasted this long.



Seriously, if the cage has broken then it could be any or all of the above, but if the balls have fallen out and the cage is fine, then its definatly over flexed, cos thats how you take them apart anyway.

Thanks for the info Tony
I'll have a look at the cage tomorrow...
So, to help with this when I replace:
A diff drop kit from TonyN
Soften off the very hard TB's
or lose the BJ spacers?

[BUSHWHACKER]

Thanks for the info Tony
I'll have a look at the cage tomorrow...
So, to help with this when I replace:
A diff drop kit from TonyN
Soften off the very hard TB's
or lose the BJ spacers?

Keep the F/W hubs though.

[Wolfracer]

Keep the F/W hubs though.

Will do.
Am i right in thinking the F/W hubs stop the drive shaft from having to turn?
And whilst thinking about it, I 've not had it in 4WD or even hub locked 4WD, so should the shafts be relatively stationary?
So what caused the cage to pop???

[TonyN]

yeah, the manual hubs are best mod of all, the hubs stop things happening when you're driving around in 2WD.

Even if the shaft isn't going round, the joint will still flex up and down with suspension, or left to right with steering.

Maybe it was broken already, just no one noticed.

You need to ultimatly get the drive shaft as flat as poss for it to be reliable, completely the opposite of what happens with you lift the front.

Diff drop will help a little, but you might have to do some trimming of the bulkhead so you can lower the front as much as possible but still clear the tyres.

The proper 4" suspension lifts may be expensive, but at the end of that day thats to only real way to lift the front while keeping steering parts, driveshaft and wishbones angles perfectly stock. All the ball joint spacers, diff drops, winding torsion bars, etc are just a bodge really.

The last year or so I've been lowering more stressed out front suspensions of Surfs than lifting them for people, Its ok on an offroad toy, but trucks that are being used regularly really suffer for wear on parts and tyres after a while when more than 2" of front lift is done on them

Maybe just fix it for now, and see if it goes again or not.