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I changed my pipe this weekend and I can honestly say it's just about the worst job I've tackled on the surf to date.
Whilst I was doing my research it became apparent to me that there was'nt a great deal of info on the forum about the job. So here it is:-
The job is a major PIA,so allow a full day to get it done.First of all get the truck up as high as you can and remove the right hand wheel for access.
Next remove the rubber wheel arch splash shields and the small shaped steel piece above the shock secured with 4 10mm bolts.
Inner wheel arch plate:-
And access after all is removed:-
Next step is to remove the down pipe.Two nuts underneath and one bolt from above at the manifold (14mm),and two bolts to the main exhaust section.You also need to release the steady plate bolted through the bell housing with two 17mm bolts(access to the top bolt is severely limited),and release the clamp bolt 14mm. Your downpipe should now be on the floor.
Next you need to remove the engine to gearbox steady (the transmission oil cooler line runs through here and need disconnecting as well). There are two bolts into the block and two through the bell housing area.If you don't remove this steady then the turbo pipe can't be pulled down enough to clear the pipe to turbo bolts.
Finally you can begin to remove the turbo pipe.The infamous banjo bolt is 17mm and severely limited in space.I was just able to get it out using a short 17 mm socket,3/8 universal joint and some extention bars. I removed the bolt from underneath the exhaust manifold but found for reassembly it was slightly easier with the extention bars over the top of the manifold as in this next picture.
The infamous banjo bolt just visible:-
Remove turbo pipe to block bolts (10mm),and turbo pipe to turbo bolts (12mm) Access to rear bolt is limited and you will need a small ratchet and UJ joint to give you a fighting chance with it.
Installation is reversal of removal. The new banjo washers are joined together to help you install the pipe "blind". The lower gasket clips onto the turbo pipe,but the upper needs to be inserted as you put the new pipe into situ.Keep one of the 12mm pipe to turbo nuts handy,and when you have the pipe in position wind this nut on and it will stop the turbo pipe falling away.
This is the tool kit I used:-
Hope this helps anyone else who finds themselves having to do this horrible job. Incidently I think mine was just leaking from the gasket in the end,but what the hell,I know it's all good now!!!!
Regards
Mark
Whilst I was doing my research it became apparent to me that there was'nt a great deal of info on the forum about the job. So here it is:-
The job is a major PIA,so allow a full day to get it done.First of all get the truck up as high as you can and remove the right hand wheel for access.
Next remove the rubber wheel arch splash shields and the small shaped steel piece above the shock secured with 4 10mm bolts.
Inner wheel arch plate:-
And access after all is removed:-
Next step is to remove the down pipe.Two nuts underneath and one bolt from above at the manifold (14mm),and two bolts to the main exhaust section.You also need to release the steady plate bolted through the bell housing with two 17mm bolts(access to the top bolt is severely limited),and release the clamp bolt 14mm. Your downpipe should now be on the floor.
Next you need to remove the engine to gearbox steady (the transmission oil cooler line runs through here and need disconnecting as well). There are two bolts into the block and two through the bell housing area.If you don't remove this steady then the turbo pipe can't be pulled down enough to clear the pipe to turbo bolts.
Finally you can begin to remove the turbo pipe.The infamous banjo bolt is 17mm and severely limited in space.I was just able to get it out using a short 17 mm socket,3/8 universal joint and some extention bars. I removed the bolt from underneath the exhaust manifold but found for reassembly it was slightly easier with the extention bars over the top of the manifold as in this next picture.
The infamous banjo bolt just visible:-
Remove turbo pipe to block bolts (10mm),and turbo pipe to turbo bolts (12mm) Access to rear bolt is limited and you will need a small ratchet and UJ joint to give you a fighting chance with it.
Installation is reversal of removal. The new banjo washers are joined together to help you install the pipe "blind". The lower gasket clips onto the turbo pipe,but the upper needs to be inserted as you put the new pipe into situ.Keep one of the 12mm pipe to turbo nuts handy,and when you have the pipe in position wind this nut on and it will stop the turbo pipe falling away.
This is the tool kit I used:-
Hope this helps anyone else who finds themselves having to do this horrible job. Incidently I think mine was just leaking from the gasket in the end,but what the hell,I know it's all good now!!!!
Regards
Mark
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