Builders help please

[Balllsy]

The cement that is on the edge of the roof below the tiles is crumbling away so I am putting fresh cement over the old. Whats the best easiest way to do it please ?

I have PVA so can use that for bonding if needed. How long should I wait after PVA is applied or can I put the fresh cement straight onto wet PVA ? Do I need to dilute the PVA ?

I have bought quick setting waterproof cement (Quickset probably not the best idea in hindsight so will have to mix it in smaller amounts)

Sorry for so many questions

All answers on a postcard lol

Any help appreciated

Thanks

[Predictable Bob]

I am NOT a builder but I'd have thought that the first thing to do would be to remove all the crap cement first ...

[Sancho]

I am not a builder, but I work with buildings and builders. Having said that, what is this 'cement on the edge of the roof below the tiles'? Have you got a picture?

[wald]

hi, dont put fresh mortar over old your wasting your time rake out all old loose mortar and replace n dont worry about quick set it aint that quick just dont mix too much at a time, hope this helps

[soramad]

I am not a builder, but I work with buildings and builders. Having said that, what is this 'cement on the edge of the roof below the tiles'? Have you got a picture?

This is the mortar seen under the tiles on a gable end roof to seal the gap between the wall and tiles caused by the battens nailed to the rafters.
And yes scrape out as much of the old mortar as possible and repack the space with new, try not to break the asbestolux that the mortar is sitting on as it ca'nt stick to fresh air.

[Wolfracer]

Dry Verges if you want it to do it once and forget about it...

Is it onto old corbelled brickwork or asbestolux/cement board?

[Balllsy]

Wow ! I didn't expect to get so many replies, so firstly thank you all !!!

Ok so now to answer as many of your questions as I can.

I am NOT a builder but I'd have thought that the first thing to do would be to remove all the crap cement first ...

Loose cement has been removed

I am not a builder, but I work with buildings and builders. Having said that, what is this 'cement on the edge of the roof below the tiles'? Have you got a picture?

As Soramad has guessed below it's the cement between the tiles and the bricks on the end of the bungalow. No picture yet, I'll get one tomorrow

hi, dont put fresh mortar over old your wasting your time rake out all old loose mortar and replace n dont worry about quick set it aint that quick just dont mix too much at a time, hope this helps

Thanks wald I have removed all loose mortar but dont want to take out too much that's left incase the tiles start falling off !

This is the mortar seen under the tiles on a gable end roof to seal the gap between the wall and tiles caused by the battens nailed to the rafters.
And yes scrape out as much of the old mortar as possible and repack the space with new, try not to break the asbestolux that the mortar is sitting on as it ca'nt stick to fresh air.

OK thanks

a picture speaks a thousand words, i would want to know why it was "crumbling away" before i patched it up unless your going to bodge it until you can take the row of tiles off and re do it properly. if you have a picture it might help give you some further advice. if it is indeed crumbling away perhaps the original mix wasnt right?> how long has it been there how old is the house, what type of tiles are they ? can you get more tiles ?

just a few questions.

personally i would rip the whole lot of edge tiles off and re do the whole job from scratch, you will lose some tiles in the process.

it really does depend on the construction.

I'll get some snaps tomorrow to show you what its looking like

Dry Verges if you want it to do it once and forget about it...

Is it onto old corbelled brickwork or asbestolux/cement board?

Not certain M8 I'll take some snaps and you can tell me whats what (I hope)

Thank you all !!!

[smurfL6]

Plastic dry verge over the edge of tiles and covers part of gable end will do the job, failing that disc straight line expanding metal lathe over wooden parts and sbr on mortar/brick and plaster mix of 4/1 sand/cement applied once sbr is dry. Possibly needs a scratch coat first depending on thickness of plaster on walls. This is very time consuming so would recomend dry verge. So depends on extent of damage to plaster on wall.

[Balllsy]

Here are a couple of snaps I was hoping to be able to bond the new to the old ...

[Wolfracer]

There are some areas that look white - have these been patched up before?
History should tell you the same thing will happen again if you just try and stick a bit of mortar onto the old stuff...
But, having said that, they don't look too bad, more cosmetic than anything.
Either be prepared for yearly patching up, or dig it all out to a good depth and do do it properly...
Otherwise some brown plastic eaves should cover that nicely....

[soramad]

I take it that the barge board is plastic (though painted wood would have the same effect) and it looks like when it was put on a layer of mortar was coated over the existing to stop water soaking in behind the plastic board and run the water off, however mortar does not stick to plastic (never has never will) consiquently the water has gradually soaked between the board and mortar which permeated into the older mix and the frost over the years has done the rest ie blown the two apart, I suggest that when you do your repair you fix a bell cast bead over the top of the board so it hangs below the edge and build your mortar on to that and if necessary close the gap between board and bead with a frame fixing mastic (not silicon). Also it might be a good idea to remortar it when the weather is warmer as frost is the worst thing for fresh mortar.

[BUSHWHACKER]

Otherwise some brown plastic eaves should cover that nicely....

Seconded.....http://www.eurocell.co.uk/homeowners...shing#overview

[Sancho]

Seconded.....http://www.eurocell.co.uk/homeowners...shing#overview

Thirded. That's an absolute dog's arse of a detail and would best be hidden forever.

PS - Someone's gran's sneaking up on you.

[Balllsy]

Thanks for all the sound advice guys. Much appreciated

[tintin]

Seconded.....http://www.eurocell.co.uk/homeowners...shing#overview

Sorry ,,,,,,, have to disagree, they are the ugliest thing i've ever seen on a roof!!

The biggest problem you have is "NO Drip" (roof tiles bedded on mortar which meets the plastic covering on the barge board)
Looks like the brown plastic in your picture is an addition (fixed on to the face of the original timber barge board) That has eliminated any drip that was designed in at the start.
As has been mention earlier that joint will never stay waterproof, best you can do short term is a good quality frame sealant. To do it properly and once only would require you taking the roof tiles off and re-doing the job with a new (and slightly further out) undercloaking!

http://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/tiling/tips13.htm




Alan