yobit eobot.com

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Bodylift c/o Animal

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Mine can still spin its wheels on a wet road, but the top end is noticeably slower, as it was when I moved from road tyres to 32's. 33 muds made a difference again.
    Stiffening everything up and having decent wheels to take the extra width certainly helps, and imho, I think my truck handles better than when I bought it. For such a high truck, I can plant it into a corner knowing its not going to fall over.
    I wouldn't change what i've done if I had my time over, but would "consider" the changes in acceleration and top end if motorway drving was a major part of its daily life. Luckily it's not, so being able to drive over small bungalows, nissan micras etc is a bonus.

    Before and After
    (WITH RT PLUS 2's!)



    then the rest of the lift... 2" coil spacers and 2" body lift, TB's wound up to match...





    "B.A." Baracus: "Talk to me, talk sense so I can talk back. Not all this jibberjabber like breaking the peace and all that."
    www.johnthebuilder.info

    Comment


    • #17
      Hi Rusty, did you fit spacers on the front wheels to prevent rubbing on lock ?
      Last edited by Balllsy; 31 December 2011, 13:06.

      Comment


      • #18
        Wow....that looks just right in every way. Great job...
        .... Which was nice.

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by Balllsy View Post
          Hi Rusty, did you fit spacers on the front wheels to prevent rubbing on lock ?
          Nope. I used "deep dish" steel wheels.

          These ones, as it happens.

          Comment


          • #20
            Yep! Awesome...... Not suspension lift at all?

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Balllsy View Post
              Hi Rusty, did you fit spacers on the front wheels to prevent rubbing on lock ?
              Spacers just make things worse, They never rub on the wishbones (what you'd fit spacers for), only on the bumper or bulkhead, you want wheels with as little back spacing as possible to avoid rubbing.
              4x4toys.co.uk - Keeping you on and off the road...

              Comment


              • #22
                Thanks Tony !

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by Rustinho View Post
                  Nope. I used "deep dish" steel wheels.

                  These ones, as it happens.
                  Yes I've also been looking at them and all I've spoken to say this guy is great to deal with & very helpful. Did you also get a 5th for the wheel carrier ?

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Sammyk View Post
                    Yep! Awesome...... Not suspension lift at all?
                    Looks very much like a suspension and body lift around 4" to 5" combined by the look of the after pictures.
                    Brian

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      so it sounds like a i can't just do a 2" body lift and put 33"'s on. I have to do all sorts of sus work and mods.

                      that's put a bit of a stop on my plans, i need to research the bits a bit more now.

                      thanks for the info

                      that truck looks proper - if only mine looked that good!!

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Tjillard View Post
                        so it sounds like a i can't just do a 2" body lift and put 33"'s on. I have to do all sorts of sus work and mods.

                        that's put a bit of a stop on my plans, i need to research the bits a bit more now.

                        thanks for the info

                        that truck looks proper - if only mine looked that good!!
                        Don't forget to check the gearing on your truck too or you might be surprised at the sudden lack of acceleration.

                        The axle code should be on the bulkhead with the chassis number, etc. Once you've got that do a search on the web to find out how to interpret Toyota axle codes.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by Rustinho View Post
                          First up - HUGE thanks must go to Mr Animal for basically doing the body lift for me! I helped out where I could and having been walked through it I'd certainly be willing to help other folks out who want to do the same thing. Thanks Steve - I really appreciate it.

                          Secondly - equally huge thanks must go to Mrs Animal for providing cups of tea!

                          Thirdly - and this will be the bit Mr Animal will be waiting with baited breath for - pictures:

                          Front on, 2" bodylift, still on 265/70/15s



                          Side on, 2" bodylift, still on 265/70/15s



                          Rear on, 2" bodylift, still on 265/70/15s



                          Front on, 2" bodylift, 33s



                          Side on, 2" bodylift, 33s



                          Rear on, 2" bodylift, 33s



                          The photos with 33s on are a bit on the dodgy side because it was going dark but I'm sure they're good enough for now.

                          From a driving point of view the truck feels absolutely glued to the road compared to the old tyres. Whether that is just the difference between General Grabber ATs and Nexen ATs or if its because the GGs are wider.
                          it looks great,
                          im thinking to make a ladder like yours due i cant find any for sale
                          the wolf is always bigger when you are scared!!

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X