Yep, but if the back was empty i'd be up another inch or so. Looks level to me...
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Originally posted by Wolfracer View PostYep, but if the back was empty i'd be up another inch or so. Looks level to me...
I've done the whole Roughtrax +2" springs and shocks, 2" coil spacers and have also added a pair of spring assistors (nothing in the way of lift but might be helpful when towing tin snails) at the rear and wound the torsion bars up at the front to match. Got manual free-wheeling hubs fitted too.
Overall lift from previous saggy ar5e? 3". Go figure...!
Distance from centre of hub to top of wheel arch is now roughly 23" front and rear. Not sure how that compares to what you guys have got?
I've got a 2" body lift kit to fit at some point (with the help of some of you guys from the forum hopefully!) and 2" ball joint spacers so I can back off on the T-bars a little.
Also have a 1" diff/ARB drop kit to use to save on CV joint strain too.
Plan is to get all this sorted asap, probably during easter time, plus get a set of 33s about then too. Assuming funds allow of course!
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Originally posted by Rustinho View PostNice truck, dude. Dunno if I've said that before or not...!
Originally posted by Rustinho View PostOverall lift from previous saggy ar5e? 3". Go figure...!
Originally posted by Rustinho View Post
Distance from centre of hub to top of wheel arch is now roughly 23" front and rear. Not sure how that compares to what you guys have got?
17" from rim (15") to arch"B.A." Baracus: "Talk to me, talk sense so I can talk back. Not all this jibberjabber like breaking the peace and all that."
www.johnthebuilder.info
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Originally posted by puddlesurfer View PostI know lift disscussions have been done to death but I've searched and can't find the answer.
How high can the front go if you wind up the torsion bars AND uses BJ spacers? (then drop the diff/use free wheeling hubs)
Will the camber/castor angle be able to be adjusted enough?
What other problems will I have?
Don't waste £140 on uprated bars, you don't need them.
The bump stops however, you do need. A damper can handle full extension but should never be allowed to bottom out. Refit the bump stop.
For offroad use the idea is bigger tyres = diffs higher more clearance, dropping the diff then save the £500 and stay on 31s with stock suspension.
For a street queen use 3" lift blocks and 2" spacers = cheap, all the look none of the function.
The above is only one/my veiw.Last edited by yoshie; 8 March 2011, 00:09.Brian
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Originally posted by lukenemma View Post33's will 100% go on fine with a 2inch lift front and rear i have seen this and driven a truck that has had it done
dose any on no what it will take to fit 35's tough ?
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Originally posted by Wolfracer View PostYep, but if the back was empty i'd be up another inch or so. Looks level to me...
Originally posted by Rustinho View PostJust noticed this - from what I remember reading elsewhere on here (a search should find it) fitting 35s makes the truck pretty gutless (especially a 2.4) unless you start to sort out changing the gearing somehow. Your money would probably be better off being spent elsewhere (diff lockers, etc)http://www.mudmuppet.com
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Originally posted by lukenemma View Postwhy is your truck no nose diving ? if it's 2inch higher at the back
Originally posted by lukenemma View Posti've got all the kit for the v8 conversion now jut need the time and a car to drive wile the surf's off the road so not worried about that and the 35's are a bit of a way down the line but diff lock what do they cost and where from ?
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Luke, the RT springs raise it a inch in reality.
I also carry around cr@p in the back that weighs approximately the same as an inch of compression on the springs, so no, its flat.
Look at Animal's for comparision, same rear set up, no ARB, bumper or cr@p in the back. His rides alot higher than mine, nut is still level as he has BJ's...
And it goes on!"B.A." Baracus: "Talk to me, talk sense so I can talk back. Not all this jibberjabber like breaking the peace and all that."
www.johnthebuilder.info
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i really see wat u mean abut what the spring really lift by was just walking up the street and sore the difference between mine and next door's how's is lifted 2inch on springs then he's got 33's i'm on lc spring's with 31's and mine's tallerhttp://www.mudmuppet.com
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Originally posted by yoshie View PostYou will only need a little on the bars if you fit ball joint spacers and the spacers give you 2" with no change in cv angle. That will be enough to level the truck with 2" rear springs and 2" spacers
Don't waste £140 on uprated bars, you don't need them.
I wasn't planning on getting new torsion bars anyway
The bump stops however, you do need. A damper can handle full extension but should never be allowed to bottom out. Refit the bump stop.
As I'm fitting coil spacers, on top of +2 springs - I've bought longer shocks which are +2" (closed) and +3.75" (open) should I extend the bump stop (by 2"s) or will the standard bump stop be enough to stop it bottoming out - Either way it's going to cost me, unless i can glue it back in place!
For offroad use the idea is bigger tyres = diffs higher more clearance, dropping the diff then save the £500 and stay on 31s with stock suspension.
Understood - I assumed (wrongly) that if you fitted BJ spacers it would change the CV angle hence the reason i wanted to drop the diff/use freewheeling hubs
For a street queen use 3" lift blocks and 2" spacers = cheap, all the look none of the function.
Part of lifting the truck and fitting 33's is cosmetic - It does look pretty cool but I want it to be really capable off road as I'm planning to do more and more offroading
The above is only one/my veiw.“Do or do not... there is no try.”
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Originally posted by lukenemma View Postwhat rubber are you going for and i really wouldnt lower the diff as defeat's the object of lifting the truck
I was only going to drop the diff to sort out the CV angles but Yoshie says the angles won't change as I'm using BJ spacers, so I probably won't be dropping the diff now.
I might use the spacers to drop the bump stops instead as they are 2" spacers that I was going to cut down to make in to 1" dif spacers if anyone thinks I need to - the rear shocks are 2"s longer when closed“Do or do not... there is no try.”
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Originally posted by puddlesurfer View PostMaxxis Mudders Buckshots - 33/12.5/15's -
I was only going to drop the diff to sort out the CV angles but Yoshie says the angles won't change as I'm using BJ spacers, so I probably won't be dropping the diff now.
I might use the spacers to drop the bump stops instead as they are 2" spacers that I was going to cut down to make in to 1" dif spacers if anyone thinks I need to - the rear shocks are 2"s longer when closedhttp://www.mudmuppet.com
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I'll put my five pence worth in now.If your going to lift simply to use it offroad i.e to fit 33" rubber to gain another 1 1/2" in diff to ground clearance,then the way i would do it is to junk the front and rear ARBS.Then fit +2 es 9000s on the front and +3 es9000s on the rear,next fit 2" ball joint spacers,and a 1" diff drop kit.Fit hdj80 rear coil springs then level up the front by tweaking the torsion bars.Fit a max 2" body lift and then some extended bf goodrich brake hoses.job done.If the body doesnt line up with the tyre protrusion on each side.Either fit a panhard drop kit available via vince,or simply cut and add an inch to your panhard rod.Or fab an adjustable rod.Last edited by surfenstein; 8 March 2011, 21:20.www.overfab.uk
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