Help! Exhaust stud removal on my bike!

[Bayside]

Removing the downpipes on my ZZR1200 managed to get 7 of the 8 studs to undo this was pretty easy as it goes as the nuts stayed put and they simply came out of the head.... saved a job on that but....

The 8th stud has a rusty nut on it its supposed to be 12mm but the rust has disolved it to the point of it being soft like cheese! any ideas on how to get this out? Im confident that its rusted itself to the stud just need to get it turning! Spanners and sockets arent working and dont want to round it off so its completely useless.

Ive put plus gas on it overnight and considered filing two flats to fit a smaller spanner but thought Id ask before I end up with a real mess!

[sbd16v]

there is a couple of things you can try

if you have a set of TX bits use one of them hammered on to the nut often works a treat, but if its well stick in place i would cut the nut off then remove the stud that is left and replace it, the stud should come out without to much hassle once there is no tension on it.

[schrodingers-cat]

Not sure of the setup on these new fangled machines but it used to happen to me and the solution i came up with was to saw the nut off and get some stilsons on the remains of the stud and put a bolt in, depends what cylinder it was

[Bayside]

Its one of the centre two and bottom stud - Ill see If I can get a pic on here bit later. The other studs didnt seem to have a lot of tension behind them so I think once I have some purchase I should be able to get it moving.

Its an awkward place to saw through because of the layout

Headed out to the man cave shortly to sit and stare at it and see if I can put into practice the suggestions above!

Keep the suggestions coming though as Ill have the laptop with me.

[dieselboy]

What about using a saw to cut the nut off, then use a stud extractor to replace it with a fresh stud?
Is your head ally or iron?

[Bayside]

EUREKA!

Ended up using a 7/16th multi point socket on the 12 mm nut - hammered it on and bobs your uncle it was tight enough to stay put and undid the stud. Not going to save the socket but it came out of my scrap pot anyway - I knew there was a reason a kept a junk bits an bobs box!

Now to replace the studs and nuts with new ones

[BUSHWHACKER]

You can replace the stud/nut with a bolt, it's not a special thread, just standard metric possibly M8.

[sketty]

i now you've done it now but for future reference you can always weld another nut on top of the old one then use a socket on it

[Bayside]

You can replace the stud/nut with a bolt, it's not a special thread, just standard metric possibly M8.

I take it in that case that the fat unthreaded part isnt for expansion contraction under high temp?

Was thinking of replacing at least the nuts with something marine grade so they arent so prone to rusting - Anyone see any problems with this?

[Bayside]

Well The bike started off like this

[Bayside]

Now it looks like this

[schrodingers-cat]

Feel like one of those old blokes that would come upto me back in the day when the Z1 worked and say "Thats not a real bike get yourself a Norton"
but none the less this is more my style
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1975-KAWASAKI-...ht_1441wt_1140

[gary-r]

i use marine grade stainless nuts and bolts on my bikes (A4 grade). a wee bit copper grease when you fit them and they never seize. saves the knuckles no end.
ive tried A2 as well but the 306 grade marine stuffs the best but a bit dearer.

[gary-r]

oops - meant 316 marine (A4)

[Webbo]

I have some 316 grade Metric Stainless nut if you need them pm me, no worries.