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  • Electronics Question

    Hello chaps. I'm trying to identify these capacitors. I can work out the axial and leaded bit, but am having trouble deciphering the writing. 125v seems to make sense and I take it C stands for capacitor and .047 is going to be uF. What the hell is /10 about?

    Ta

  • #2
    Any chance of a close-up?

    Normally 0.47 / 10 normally means 0.47uF 10V, so I'm a bit puzzled as to why it would give a voltage separately.

    Other info - they will be non-polarised if they are in a signal path. If you're aiming to improve it, or at least replace with good quality, go for either a polypropylene type, polystyrene or polycarbonate type. All are well suited to audio applications.
    Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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    • #3
      Thanks Andy. I'm wondering if the /10 is tolerance (i.e. 10%) and it is 125v?

      This picture is the best I can do. Not actually got the thing here.

      [IMG][/IMG]
      Last edited by Sancho; 26 January 2011, 23:06.

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      • #4
        Hello Sancho, finally got hold of Guy this afternoon, he thinks you can buy the stainless steel knobs ex stock from suppliers in the US, he is going to email me some suppliers for you so contact at your leisure they are expensive as singles and usually in 10s (he says from memory) apparently the last one he did for Peter Green has st/st stuff on
        Death rides a Black Horse

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        • #5
          Could be. Not normal marking convention. They normally state '%' on tolerances. However, to err on the side of caution, just choose better types. These days they'll be physically smaller for a better tolerance and similar voltage rating.

          Why do they need replacing - or do they? I notice you didn't mention replacement? Are you just wondering out of interest?

          <edit> just saw the pic. After the 125V, is that a straight line or a sine wave? It may indicate DC (straight line) or AC (sine wave)
          Last edited by Apache; 26 January 2011, 23:12.
          Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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          • #6
            Originally posted by John h View Post
            Hello Sancho, finally got hold of Guy this afternoon, he thinks you can buy the stainless steel knobs ex stock from suppliers in the US, he is going to email me some suppliers for you so contact at your leisure they are expensive as singles and usually in 10s (he says from memory) apparently the last one he did for Peter Green has st/st stuff on
            Thanks very much John. Had one supplier in the US who said he could do them, for $75 each!!!

            I need ten anyway, so that's not a problem. Failing that, the precision engineers have come back and said £200 for a batch of ten, which is a lot but less than £500!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Apache View Post
              Could be. Not normal marking convention. They normally state '%' on tolerances. However, to err on the side of caution, just choose better types. These days they'll be physically smaller for a better tolerance and similar voltage rating.

              Why do they need replacing - or do they? I notice you didn't mention replacement? Are you just wondering out of interest?
              That's not my guitar. On mine, some dick replaced the six tone controls and six volume controls with two and replaced the stereo output with mono, so I am down one or two bits. I'm trying to get it back to original spec.

              PS - you're a bassist are you not? The next cab off the rank is a 1963 Futurama Bass. You want one? Mine's red, but the same thing.

              Last edited by Sancho; 26 January 2011, 23:15.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Sancho View Post
                That's not my guitar. On mine, some dick replaced the six tone controls and six volume controls with two and replaced the stereo output with mono, so I am down one or two bits. I'm trying to get it back to original spec.
                Ah OK. If you need any help with part numbers for suitable caps, let me know and I'll check RS or Maplin for you.
                Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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                • #9
                  Two types 1; stainless knob with extension pre-drilled and grub screw to fit on control shaft,15usd each approx 2; standard st/st knob countersunk drilled with grub screw (not as neat) 12usd each he rang me from the workshop as he was ordering pickups and stuff, sorry if it sounds vague but was a cryptic conversation as he was talking to the bloke in the US
                  Death rides a Black Horse

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Sancho View Post
                    That's not my guitar. On mine, some dick replaced the six tone controls and six volume controls with two and replaced the stereo output with mono, so I am down one or two bits. I'm trying to get it back to original spec.

                    PS - you're a bassist are you not? The next cab off the rank is a 1963 Futurama Bass. You want one? Mine's red, but the same thing.

                    Oooooh... bit hot for my blood though (or our bank balance when I have to get it past the mrs )

                    Nice!
                    Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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                    • #11
                      Apache is quite right, they are part of a passive high-pass circuit, lin pot and a cap, normaly a 500 Ohm pot and .47uf cap; nice wiring versitle in the studio but it didn't make adjusting the tone in a live situation exactly easy and never caught on.

                      peace
                      cal
                      Bala Mud, best underseal there is, only £30 per application.


                      www.thecellardwellers.co.uk

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