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F*** F*** Ball Joint

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  • F*** F*** Ball Joint

    Yes!... As some of you are aware this thing will not split. Cant get enough pressure on it with my splitter as it's a little too small so been smashing it with a lump hammer to no avail , even with heat on it. Looks like I'll have to go down to Machine mart or Halfords tommorrow for a larger splitter, knew I should of left it till summer as it was only an advisory on the mot. Did however get to change all the brake pipes as one failed on the mot and another was an advisory, got the d bushes on the arb to do also, Is it easier to do whilst on jacks or when its back on its wheels, ie: its not liable to trap any fingers if there's any pressure on it?
    Baz

  • #2
    Originally posted by Baz94 View Post
    Yes!... As some of you are aware this thing will not split. Cant get enough pressure on it with my splitter as it's a little too small so been smashing it with a lump hammer to no avail , even with heat on it. Looks like I'll have to go down to Machine mart or Halfords tommorrow for a larger splitter, knew I should of left it till summer as it was only an advisory on the mot. Did however get to change all the brake pipes as one failed on the mot and another was an advisory, got the d bushes on the arb to do also, Is it easier to do whilst on jacks or when its back on its wheels, ie: its not liable to trap any fingers if there's any pressure on it?
    Baz
    What are you hitting with your hammer?

    What are you asking if it's easier to do on stands or when the truck is on its wheels?

    Never do any work under a vehicle when it's on a jack.
    Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Albannach View Post
      What are you hitting with your hammer?

      What are you asking if it's easier to do on stands or when the truck is on its wheels?

      Never do any work under a vehicle when it's on a jack.
      Sorry, I meant stands, It was regarding the arb bushes, I cant tell if its putting more pressure on the bar if its lifted or not. As for the ball joint I've disconnected it from the hub and been hitting the joint from underneath.
      Baz

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Baz94 View Post
        Sorry, I meant stands, It was regarding the arb bushes, I cant tell if its putting more pressure on the bar if its lifted or not. As for the ball joint I've disconnected it from the hub and been hitting the joint from underneath.
        Baz
        There is no pressure on the anti roll bar when the suspension is level, irrespective of it being on stands or on the ground.

        You will never hit a balljoint out, you have to hit the side of the wishbone to 'shock' it out. There's a knack to it, but you'll eventually get it out.
        Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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        • #5
          Ok, thanks for the info. I've got it sat in diesel overnight so I'll have another go b4 I go to the motor factors

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          • #6
            I did mine also today. I came here to make a post. When mine were stuck the mechanic I worked with (he did most (90% ish) of the work to be fair) hit the surrounding metal with the hammer and not the ball joint itself. One of the bottom ball joints when he hit the metal piece the ball joint sits into it flew out like a jack in the box. I did ask if he had a splitter and he said yes but that's the hard way...
            Oh Nana, what's my name?

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            • #7
              Best way I've found with stuck ones is to use the bolt type splitter and tighten 'til you can't go any more then hit the side of the joint with a big hammer. Works every time.
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                I had a similar problem with my lower balljoint. I tried hitting the wishbone but eventually it left a flat spot on the sid eof the wishbone from hitting it so hard.
                Tried the splitter above (two actually) on one the bolt that does the tightening bent, and the other the forks snapped off.
                I got the tuning fork type one but it wasn't thick enough to make contact with the wishbone and the balljoint. In the end I grinded a notch out of a brake pad, slid that over the balljoint bar, then used the splitter again. Reluctantly it finally popped.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Albannach View Post
                  You will never hit a balljoint out, you have to hit the side of the wishbone to 'shock' it out. There's a knack to it, but you'll eventually get it out.
                  Got to agree with Andy, you'll find most mechanics don't use splitters just the ole "technique" on all ya ball joints !!
                  Well described here by Tony

                  Originally posted by dieselboy View Post
                  I did mine also today. I came here to make a post. When mine were stuck the mechanic I worked with (he did most (90% ish) of the work to be fair) hit the surrounding metal with the hammer and not the ball joint itself. One of the bottom ball joints when he hit the metal piece the ball joint sits into it flew out like a jack in the box. I did ask if he had a splitter and he said yes but that's the hard way...
                  Jess
                  "Cos short cuts can cost more in the long run"
                  Last edited by Diezel Weazel; 22 January 2011, 23:44.
                  Buncefield Burner

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