Yep. What he's saying is all fuels are the same, just not the ones we pay for and put in our vehicles - they may all be different. Some are more the same/different than others.
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Diesel freezing
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Originally posted by davec170 View PostYep. What he's saying is all fuels are the same, just not the ones we pay for and put in our vehicles - they may all be different. Some are more the same/different than others.Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's
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ad blue
Originally posted by KERRSURF View PostNo it's not. It's for reducing emmissions using a process called selective catalytic reduction. I fitted AD-BLUE fast fill nozzles today and had to read the data sheets. Doesn't mention a thing about fuel temps or stopping fuel freezing.
Makes the fuel smell nicer when it burns mind you.
and injects a set amount into the fuel tank when you fill up this stuff is £18/20 a litre
cost daughter £180 to have to the tank refilled and thats not at a main dealer
you are supposed to replace the tank costs about £750 for new tank and fitting
light comes on dask particle filter blocked or some thing and if you run it without refilling it you may end up with a new cat as well
and i wonder why i dont like new carsSlowly Slowly Catchee Monkey
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Originally posted by davec170 View PostI must be really out of touch with new diesels, I've never heard of Ad-Blue on new cars. Is it really on most new models? Then again, I still think of anything wearing a "non prefix" numberplate as being new!
F----g euro 4/5/6 emissions lawsSlowly Slowly Catchee Monkey
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A lot of Citroens are running this setup but it depends on the engine at the moment IIRC its only the hdi that has it as i used to have a xantia and the citroen owners were going t@ts at the cost of the Eolys fluid as it's only supplied by total to citroen and the pharmacutical company that developed it changed the formulation in 2003/04 and probably got the copright to the formula for ten years as is usually the case
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/foru...ight=emissionsI'M ALWAYS IN THE SH'T, IT'S ONLY THE DEPTH THAT VARIES!!!!!!!!
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Originally posted by MWS View PostHey, everyone! I've just found a use for my waxed up biodiesel....Cheers....Mick.
mine is a 2nd gen 3.0 with no mods the fuel filer is 10months old not changed it since i bought the car but i do filter my oil very well all by gravity down to 1 Mc and i refilter it before use i have some i wiltered in aug that now has 2 inch in the bottom of the cubie that's whites(fats) all i do is add another litre of petrol and shake it up and leave it to settle then if still got fat another litre of petrol
on the old merc's it tell you in the handbook up to 30% petrol in harsh winter tempsSlowly Slowly Catchee Monkey
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Originally posted by octo0072000 View PostMick just add more petrol up to 20% sounds like the feedstock for the bio was bad oil think it's canola oil that has a low gelling point i have some here from local home thats now solid but it's ok in summer all i did was keep adding petrol till it was liquid she ran ok on it im still running over 60%WVO 15% petrol 35%derv with no problems and a lot of my trips are local starts first time all i do is put idle up on and give her a few mins to warm before driving off
mine is a 2nd gen 3.0 with no mods the fuel filer is 10months old not changed it since i bought the car but i do filter my oil very well all by gravity down to 1 Mc and i refilter it before use i have some i wiltered in aug that now has 2 inch in the bottom of the cubie that's whites(fats) all i do is add another litre of petrol and shake it up and leave it to settle then if still got fat another litre of petrol
on the old merc's it tell you in the handbook up to 30% petrol in harsh winter temps
Alanwww.amcbs.webeden.co.uk www.xjrestorations.co.uk
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Re: bio and veg
Bought bio is known for being of erratic quality and often is found just to be roughly filtered WVO.
If you do buy it you should do the hot pan test and the 70/30 test.
Personally I wouldn't touch any myself without doing this as the cost/environmental savings are all negated if you screw your Surf up.
I only have a small heat exchanger fitted and run high concentrations of veg in all temps mixing around 10% petrol and shaking it around a bit before adding to the tank.
All my filtered veg is labelled with warm/cold to indicate the outside temp when it was filtered. cold is fine to use anytime warm I only use in summer months so fats that were liquid enough to drop through the filter when I made it don't go making interesting shapes in my fuel tank
If you store veg indoors it's good to take it outside the night before sticking it in your tank so you can see if any fats are dropping out
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Originally posted by tintin View PostNo wonder your truck is running so well if you've managed to find a way of getting 110% fuel in it!
Alan
should read 60%WVO 15%petrol 25% diesel and allways mix in 20 litre lots leave outside stand over night only pour in what is clear
Slowly Slowly Catchee Monkey
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Originally posted by biosurf View PostRe: bio and veg
Bought bio is known for being of erratic quality and often is found just to be roughly filtered WVO.
If you do buy it you should do the hot pan test and the 70/30 test.
Personally I wouldn't touch any myself without doing this as the cost/environmental savings are all negated if you screw your Surf up.
I only have a small heat exchanger fitted and run high concentrations of veg in all temps mixing around 10% petrol and shaking it around a bit before adding to the tank.
All my filtered veg is labelled with warm/cold to indicate the outside temp when it was filtered. cold is fine to use anytime warm I only use in summer months so fats that were liquid enough to drop through the filter when I made it don't go making interesting shapes in my fuel tank
If you store veg indoors it's good to take it outside the night before sticking it in your tank so you can see if any fats are dropping out
i do roughly the same but leave to stand a week if possible if i have plenty of oil leftLast edited by octo0072000; 8 December 2010, 13:49.Slowly Slowly Catchee Monkey
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Im no expert but the old way of preventing fuel wax up was for every 100l of diesal you add 1l of petrol now as the forecort pumps tend to do the additive at the fuel depot so you should not need to do that these days. However it will not do your truck any harm if you were to do this especially in the extreme temps it should prevent waxing to a degree...
Adblue is a new thing mainly for the heavies to bring the emissions down to meet new EU legislation this is injected into the fuel similar to your old mopeds 2 stroke oiling to assist in burning off the hydracarbons etc that the tree huggers whinge about.Im not a gynacologist but ill have a look
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Originally posted by mark g8awo View PostIm no expert but the old way of preventing fuel wax up was for every 100l of diesal you add 1l of petrol now as the forecort pumps tend to do the additive at the fuel depot so you should not need to do that these days. However it will not do your truck any harm if you were to do this especially in the extreme temps it should prevent waxing to a degree...
Adblue is a new thing mainly for the heavies to bring the emissions down to meet new EU legislation this is injected into the fuel similar to your old mopeds 2 stroke oiling to assist in burning off the hydracarbons etc that the tree huggers whinge about.
bit low on petrol 1% i used to run italy in the 80/90s going back to imperial
was 10 gallons of petrol to 90 gallons or derv my 111scania had 2 100 gallons tanks diesel was then 30/35 pence a litre so a fill up was say £350 so now a same 1000 litre fill up would be £1222 at 1.22 a litre oh and 6 miles to the gallon on that motor modern 44tonners now get approx 10 to 11 mpg but then as the blue stuff at £18 pound a litre so mpg drops to no idea what as stopped running my own wagons in the 90sSlowly Slowly Catchee Monkey
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