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If the laquer has already gone then it needs to be resprayed and re laquered really.
You could use 1000 grit paper on the peeled part and surrounding area and spray laquer back on it but it will show quite badly.
Depends on how fussy you are.
It won't show if it's burnished back after spraying using G3 rubbing compound & a quality polish. You'll need patience to get it right or use a polisher if practicable.
I have not yet had much experience with motor vehicle painting but I'm a boat builder by trade and have done my fair share of repairs to high gloss finishes on race yachts, it is a lot easier to do repairs to cars as you have the changing contours in the panels to loose the edges of your repair.
To do the repair you need to feather the edge of the lacquer with 600 - 1000 grit wet/dry depending on how brave/confident you are, you don't want to rub the through the coat beneath though.
For the repair to be unnoticeable you don't want to be able to feel the edge of the lacquer, if you can feel the edge then you will probably see it when you're finished. It pays to get a decent wet/dry like 3M, goes much further. Once you have the area smooth and can't feel the edge of the lacquer then you are ready to top coat, most car paint suppliers will put a clear polyurethane into a aerosol can, as you will need to cut back and polish the lacquer after, there is no point using a spray gun.
Depending on where the repair is you will need to mask up a large area around the repair and key up all the way to the masking tape with scotch bright.
When you get your lacquer in a can get yourself a surface cleaner and give the area a good clean using a few rags. When masked up and clean properly you can apply your lacquer, first coat is always a dust coat (very light coat) and then you can start to build up your coats slowly in an ambient temperature. Don't spray all the way to the tape though; this will cause a hard edge which will be difficult to polish out.
Once paint is completely dry you can start rub back with 1200 grit wet and then with a good polishing compound and preferably a buffer bring it to gloss. Job done!
Like I say I have not done this to a car yet but have used this same method many times on boats which use the same paint systems. Hope this is of some help and please let me know if any of this is unclear.
I have not yet had much experience with motor vehicle painting but I'm a boat builder by trade and have done my fair share of repairs to high gloss finishes on race yachts, it is a lot easier to do repairs to cars as you have the changing contours in the panels to loose the edges of your repair.
To do the repair you need to feather the edge of the lacquer with 600 - 1000 grit wet/dry depending on how brave/confident you are, you don't want to rub the through the coat beneath though.
For the repair to be unnoticeable you don't want to be able to feel the edge of the lacquer, if you can feel the edge then you will probably see it when you're finished. It pays to get a decent wet/dry like 3M, goes much further. Once you have the area smooth and can't feel the edge of the lacquer then you are ready to top coat, most car paint suppliers will put a clear polyurethane into a aerosol can, as you will need to cut back and polish the lacquer after, there is no point using a spray gun.
Depending on where the repair is you will need to mask up a large area around the repair and key up all the way to the masking tape with scotch bright.
When you get your lacquer in a can get yourself a surface cleaner and give the area a good clean using a few rags. When masked up and clean properly you can apply your lacquer, first coat is always a dust coat (very light coat) and then you can start to build up your coats slowly in an ambient temperature. Don't spray all the way to the tape though; this will cause a hard edge which will be difficult to polish out.
Once paint is completely dry you can start rub back with 1200 grit wet and then with a good polishing compound and preferably a buffer bring it to gloss. Job done!
Like I say I have not done this to a car yet but have used this same method many times on boats which use the same paint systems. Hope this is of some help and please let me know if any of this is unclear.
Matt
Exactly the same method I use on vehicles producing great results. Excellent advice.
It is not my pleasure palace that I am discussing ! as you know perfectly well my professionaly valeted and Manicured jessy wagon doesn't see mud etc.
however in the current economic climate the only way for me to keep a Surf means to cut my outgoings,so sell/px current Surf and hopefully pick up a well looked after 2nd Gen with a few trimmings
also have to learn to look after things myself instead of keeping the garage men happy !
Oh and forgot to say thanks Guys very helpful !
Last edited by John h; 22 October 2010, 09:16.
Reason: forgot something
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