2" Balljoint Spacers on LN130

[Rockabillygoaty]

Hi!
Just ordered a set of 3" Body blocks, and ive got +2 pro comp shocks, +2 rear coils on there way.
Would it be more use to get Balljoint spacers for the front or longer torsion bars?
Or could I use both to get extr lift.
I am looking to use my BFG 35's a/t's on the road, and my 33's Wrangler m/t's off.
The 35's are on 12x15 modulars, and the 33's are on 10x15 eightspokes.
Any ideas as to whats best for me?

[POPEYE]

With a 3" body lift you realise you will have to do a bit of serious tinkering!
like longer fuel filler hose, longer gear shift lever extensions, longer steering extension etc,
uprated torsion bars aint longer (i think) but stronger, combination of BJ spacers and uprated bars will lift it a fair bit tho, dont forget you need the camber - toe-in adjusted after as well

[Apache]

If you're going for a serious sus lift on the front and still want to have rotating fron shafts, you'll need to drop the diff a little and / or fit manual hubs if you dont want the truck eating CV joints / boots.

There is a maximum angle the CVs will work at, beyond that, they lock and explode. Leave the OEM bump stops on and stop winding the bars just before you hit the downward stop. Gets mighty bouncy then too as you have no downward sus travel left! The BJ spacers help a bit in this respect as you dont need to wind the bars so tight to get the same lift.

A big sus lift is a much more serious / expensive proposition than the usual 2" or so!

[Rockabillygoaty]

With a 3" body lift you realise you will have to do a bit of serious tinkering!
like longer fuel filler hose, longer gear shift lever extensions, longer steering extension etc,
uprated torsion bars aint longer (i think) but stronger, combination of BJ spacers and uprated bars will lift it a fair bit tho, dont forget you need the camber - toe-in adjusted after as well

Hi Popeye!
Thanks for the info!
I guessed about filler pipe, that will be sorted no probs1
Its an automatic, and I have been led to belive that there is spos to be enough play to accomedate the 3" lift, could that be true?
Same with the steering! I was also led to belive a 3" body lift wouldnt need extending shaft just releasing the bolts and it should find its own length as its slowly lifted?
Bumper and radiator is also obvious from the things ive read, but is thereanything else I should look at?
Ive done the exhaust already this week as it looked stupid when rear bumper was removed.
Any other sugestions would always be appreciated.
Ken

[Rockabillygoaty]

If you're going for a serious sus lift on the front and still want to have rotating fron shafts, you'll need to drop the diff a little and / or fit manual hubs if you dont want the truck eating CV joints / boots.

There is a maximum angle the CVs will work at, beyond that, they lock and explode. Leave the OEM bump stops on and stop winding the bars just before you hit the downward stop. Gets mighty bouncy then too as you have no downward sus travel left! The BJ spacers help a bit in this respect as you dont need to wind the bars so tight to get the same lift.

A big sus lift is a much more serious / expensive proposition than the usual 2" or so!

Hi Apache!
when you say manual hubs, do you mean these?


http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=16&cid=146&vid=1139

Must admit that Ime not shure what you mean by droping the diffs.
Have you got any details or links that would aim me in the right direction of what I am to do and how?
All help is appreciated.
Ken

[Apache]

Hi Apache!
when you say manual hubs, do you mean these?


http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/?doc=16&cid=146&vid=1139

Yes, that sort of thing. Stops your front shafts turning when you dont need 4WD

Must admit that Ime not shure what you mean by droping the diffs.
Have you got any details or links that would aim me in the right direction of what I am to do and how?
All help is appreciated.
Ken

Spacing the diff so it sits lower reduces your front drive shaft angles, putting less strain on the CV joints. Lifting the front sus increases the angle - quite a lot on these because the wishbones are so short (a bit of a limitation of these trucks).

Lowering the diff defeats the object of lifting in order for better clearance offroad, but if you're doing this simply to be able to run 35s its not an issue. You'll also lose articulation with a lift acheived by winding the torsion bars tight because there'll be very little downward travel left (unless you remove bumpstops - but then you'll break driveshafts) and because of how stiff the front will be.

Found this out practically over the years by the way. I ended up backing off the bars and losing a bit of lift in order to gain better ride quality and better articulation / better traction.

If you search stuff related to lifts (search tab near top of page) there's loads of info from peeps who've done this sort of thing over the years.

[an1mal_69]

Figure out exactly how you want to use the truck, because there is a compromise in setting up for mooching round town as opposed to green laning, onto more serious off roading-private sites etc.

Personally I went for Landcruiser springs (I think I ended up with uprated ones), and Iron man, uprated torsion bars. This gave me a 2" lift front (without winding the bars up) and rear. This was great on the road as it is quite a stiff set-up, but horrible off road. Any undulations in terrain were transmitted into the body rather than the axles articulating, its liveable (I did the Wales run with this set-up) but not if you play out every weekend kinda thing..If you are going to use the truck 'mainly' on road I'd go this route.

Then..I pulled the rear springs and replaced them with uprated surf springs, these sat 2" higher than stock, but are still the right spring rate for the vehicle. At the same time I fitted Rancho +4" dampers, and stripped the anti-roll bars. The rear of the truck works really well now, as good as its gonna get without spending serious money..Just to add, extended rear brake line had to fitted at this point also.

Recently..I found the front still a bit too stiff with the Ironman bars, with a winch & winch bumper hanging over the front they're probably just right, but until then I swapped back to the stock bars. I wound them just a little (around an inch) as not to compromise them and fitted 40mm ball joint spacers. Now the truck is totally different, I can feel the front working over the terrain rather than just driving over it..but..on the road it feels like a boat. Mainly due to having no A.R. bars, but its not a daily driver so i can live with it.

So, its horses for courses really. On the body lift, keep an eye on you're handbrake cable too, mine went tight with a 2" lift so just be aware of it.

[Rockabillygoaty]

Thanks again all for the sugestions, if you think of anything else don hesitate to coment please!
As a complete novice I am taking it all in as it comes long, lol.

Typicaly, what I want is to 1st: Look good on the road without making it useless as a daily drive!
2nd: Be able to fit my 2 sets of tyres as and when I need them.
3rd: Do a bit of greenlaning whenever I get a chance, a little bit of weekend off the beaten track camping.

As far as pay and play days, Ive got the big boy getting ready to do that, My Lux pickup with 6" body lift, V8 rover 2.5, 35's on 12x15.
But thats on the hold till end of summer.
cant afford to put my pennies into both at moment and I need my Surf done first!

[POPEYE]

If you click on the "files" tab right at the top and look through there they stuck a write up i did when i did mine, also i still have the drawings/diamentions for ball joint spacers, front diff lowereing blocks and front ARB lowering blocks if you need them to make your own spacers,
unless your doing some major off roading you wont need the diff and arb ones but i would definatly fit free wheeling manual hubs (the roughtrax link) theres no point in everything turning and wearing when you aint in 4x4, nice and easy to lock em when you need to
like i said 2" Bj's will push the camber and toe-in right out, you'll need to have it re set or do it yourself, this link was bl00dy usefull when i did mine (after wearing out two good BFG's)
http://www.yotatech.com/f128/drivewa...ite-up-163666/

BTW, i left the front arb off after doing the camber etc and found very little difference in the drive (on the road) slightly more sway on bends but unless you drive like a boy racer it wont make a lot of difference, also dumped the rear arb's with fitting the LC springs, their so stiff the arb was useless

nice pick-up, love them,

[Rockabillygoaty]

Thanks! its got potential and cant wait to get it donebut as I said, can only do one thing at the time, finances as they are, but try and do a bit on it one a week!
Even if its only taking something off ready for the spray job.
Its looking strange at moment with font end all off and engine out, going for full spray and then rewire it completely and neater. (Theory)

[Rockabillygoaty]

Hey Popeye!
Wouldnt mind those drawings if at all possible!
Thanks for the offer!
And any pics will help!
KenKeeping@Yahoo.co.uk
Regards Ken

[POPEYE]

Hey Popeye!
Wouldnt mind those drawings if at all possible!
Thanks for the offer!
And any pics will help!
KenKeeping@Yahoo.co.uk
Regards Ken

OK
1, ball joint spacer
2, ARB lowering spacer
3, front diff lowering spacer

click on the one you want and load (if this link works?)
http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/php_lib/v...at=1&submit=Go

[Rockabillygoaty]

Great!
Thanks for that!
Will save a hell of a lot that I aint got, lol.
Might as well replace the balljoints with new ones as I am there!
Those pics will be appreciated by others who read this post as well so I will thank you for them also!
Ken!

[POPEYE]

Your welcome, pics of it when your all done

[Rockabillygoaty]

Now I know how to add pics I will!
Went down my mates today to see his Smurf.
Makes my one look more ragged than it realy is.
Lifted, airbrushed, everything chrome.
38's.
Need to get pics for you!
Blew me away.