Autobox Lockup Mod Query

[Predictable Bob]

I've been hammering the search function looking into the lockup mod but haven't been able to find an unequivocal statement to see if it's likely to be of use to me .....

Am I right to think that the lockup mod will:

1. Reduce the chances of the ATF fluid and coolant overheating under load

2. Improve fuel consumption on longer mid speed runs (40-60mph)

3. Be really useful if you were towing a heavy caravan up gert big hills in France at the height of summer


Cheers guys

[Apache]

Unequivocal 'yes' to 1 & 2, and probable yes to 3, though you'll probably be using 2nd anyway for that sort of thing.

[Paul1566]

Do you mean to lock each gear or lock the torque converter ?
If torque converter try this link http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/v...ic.php?t=12654
Think there is also a bit about locking gears as well in the same thread.

[Predictable Bob]

I've NO IDEA what I want to do - I just know that I need to do something .....

A short explanation of the situation:-

The last time we went to France we were 5 up and fully loaded towing a 1300kg van at speeds up to 130kph (Totally legal !). Whenever we hit a long hill the coolant temperature would rocket and we'd end up crawling with the windows open and the heater on full blast. We've got an external transmission cooler and I was confident that I'd removed Salisbury Plain from the radiator etc.

We intend going back to France next year but the kids are considerably bigger (And will want to take more gear), the latest van weighs 1500kg and we've already noticed the temp guage start to climb on hills in the UK.

My first step is to remove the rad, make sure it's clear of Salisbury Plain and remove any internal gunk but I know that some of the rad fins were damaged when an idiot took a pressure washer to it to remove bits of Salisbury Plain (I know it was stupid but it was a few years ago and I didn't know any better at the time !)

To complicate matters the French have changed the rules on towing caravans - if your outfit has a combined mass in excess of 3500kg then you're limited to a max speed of 90kph which is pretty close to lockup speed so I can envisage it dropping in and out screwing up the mpg and increasing the atf temperature with knock on increases in coolant temperature

That's why I'm thinking about manually controlled lockup and stuff but the killer is that I know nothing and it'll take me a while to learn cos I'm old and thick !

Thanks for the link - I've already found a reference to info on another site that sounds familiar:

http://outgoing.bauchan.org/toyota_s.../general_info/


Anyway I'm off for a bit but I'll be back later on to have a proper read

Cheers

[Apache]

Do you mean to lock each gear or lock the torque converter ?
If torque converter try this link http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/v...ic.php?t=12654
Think there is also a bit about locking gears as well in the same thread.

Some of us have done this our own way...

That switch with TC Lock 'ON'

Bob, heavily loaded on some big Pyrenees climbs, I slowed and used 2nd after seeing the gauge start to climb. That worked. With what I did, it's possible to lock top gear, and lock third by deselecting OD and locking TC. There's always a combo that works.

[Predictable Bob]

Having read a few threads and checked out some of the tech info I'm now no further forward (See - I told you I was thick !)

It would appear that I possess the A340F auto transmission - 3 speed plus overdrive with lockup in 3rd & OD (It also briefly mentions lockup in 2nd at over 50% throttle BUT not when L or 2 is selected)

Anyway from the small amount of reading I've done between painting it would appear that there isn't an affordable, completely idiot proof solution to my problem.

I THINK that what I want is manual lockup for OD, 3rd and possibly 2nd (What's max speed in 2nd ?)

I believe that the risk is damaging the gearbox by leaving it in lockup at very low revs (i.e. when braking /stopping)

The question is how close can I get to what I want and, in the absence of a means of automatically switching lockup off, is it possible to setup a warning or two - a light to indicate that manual lockup is engaged and a buzzer that sounds when manual lockup is engaged and engine revs are low (< 1400 or thereabouts ?)

[Apache]

Same box as me.

It is VERY noticeable that you've left lockup in when slowing down too much. Think of it as driving a manual without a clutch.

In normal use (a longish journey) I set off as normal, and when I get to about 45mph, select lockup. I then trudle along happily at 1500rpm. If I have to slow to 30 ish, I deselect OD, which knocks the box down a gear and is happy down to about 30. Below this, it labours so I deselect lockup.

Simples!

After a bit of use I haven't found a need for warning lights - however it very easy to put a light on the dash when lockup is in. You dont have a big 'CLUTCH!' warning light in a manual car for when you slow down do you?

[Predictable Bob]

Andy,

I'm getting a nice warm feeling about this - have you published the details of the mod anywhere ? If so can you post the url so I can have a read ?


Cheers

[MattF]

Have a look over in the Modifications section Bob. adsimpson is working on an enhanced version of Apache's mod, so there's Apache's at the moment, with the possibility that ads may get one running in the future that is fully automatic, if he's successful.


Edit: Here's the link:

http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/forums/sh...ad.php?t=53437

[gwh200]

I hate to say it but it sounds as if you really need a new rad bob
cooling fins missing is bad enough but pulling all that weight as well. It would be a real sensible( predictable even) course of action

[Predictable Bob]

Have a look over in the Modifications section Bob. adsimpson is working on an enhanced version of Apache's mod, so there's Apache's at the moment, with the possibility that ads may get one running in the future that is fully automatic, if he's successful.


Edit: Here's the link:

http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/forums/sh...ad.php?t=53437

Cheers Matt - I'd actually read through that (Twice) and I'll be watching it closely.

What I was after for now was an idiot guide to the basic model that Andy's using.

Gwa - In my heart know you're right about the rad but I'm trying to push the expenditure to the right a bit so I can get the braided brake lines sorted first (Cos the Financial Controller will stamp on them if I tell her we need a new rad !)

[Apache]

Have a look over in the Modifications section Bob. adsimpson is working on an enhanced version of Apache's mod, so there's Apache's at the moment, with the possibility that ads may get one running in the future that is fully automatic, if he's successful.


Edit: Here's the link:

http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/forums/sh...ad.php?t=53437

Andy built a working prototype loosely based on the circuit diagrams I posted up here some time back. I think he's working on a PIC based version isn't he?

The simple version takes about half an hour to incorporate and is easily DIY if you can work a soldering iron, and as I said, could easily incorporate an LED in the dash to remind you of the TC lock.

Agree with Gra though, always worth making sure the cooling system is tip top - but who doesn't need more switches?

[gwh200]

Switches are the purest form of geekery
it could end up like the matrix in there!!
But seriously lack of fins in the rad will compromise it's ability to keep cool

[kitesurf_phil]

The best mod I did was replacing the rad. I struck lucky. Went to the local rad specialiists and asked how much it would be to recore the existing one. They told me that they ordered in a 3.0L Surf rad for a guy, who rang up to say that he had written his off and would no longer need it, so it sat on their shelf as dead stock for 8 months. Needless to say I got it cheap, especially as I said I woud fit it myself.
The truck pulled up Blue Bank in N Yorkshire, with the caravan and all the gear in the truck, without missing a beat.

I am interested in the manual TC lock for towing the caravan as, compared to the 2.4L I had, the 3.0L wants to keep dropping out of O/D or changing down at the slightest excuse. The 2.4 would go all day and all night, in top with O/D on, at 55 MPH, whereas the 3.0 wants to rev its nuts off all the time. I have heard, although I have not checked the spec', that the 2.4 has a bit more torque at low revs.

[boma23]

Bit of a thread revival, but thought it worth adding for those searching on this.
my truck arrived on Tortola last week, and despite never seeing the gauge move once in the UK, it overheated on its' first big climb next day out, but luckily caught the guage rising in time and U-turned and coasted down... To be fair, "Jo's hill" is a renowned vehicle killer - think of a 1400ft 2nd/3rd climb over about 1km, in 40+ deg midday sun and high humidity.

I managed to make it up next day, by taking it easy in 2nd with the heaters full on, but still not ideal.


So, thought it worth pointing out something I've not seen on here yet, which is it appears my 3.0 suffers from having one of these pieces of crap:

http://toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=195


i.e. the incredible blocked radiator design.


So to be fair, there are 3 things contributing to the overheating:

1. the slipping torque converter generating tons of heat
2. the AT box fluid cooler also being a very effective radiator heater, being sat inside it at the bottom.
3. the auto fluid cooler blocking the pi$$ing radiator outlet, so there's no flow under strain at revs when it needs it most!!!


I know a lot of you will have seen it already, but thought it worth adding to this thread, as the last one is a bit of a shocker.

My plans:
1. Torque converter mod tomorrow
2. External Auto transmission cooler inline and in front of the rad.
3. A replacement rad from Roughtrax at some point, with a more sensible design...


I reckon something should be made a sticky about the rad design issue, as I bet a lot of people have done all sorts and spent hours trying to solve cooling issues on climbs/towing, when they may just have the above unfortunate combination.