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  • what size

    can anyone help please....I have discovered that I have a leaking brake pipe some where round the fuel tank so it looks like I am going to have to make a replacement........good job I can bend pipe!
    But I need to know
    what size pipe?
    what thread and type are the fittings?
    are they flared ends?
    what is the best material to use? (anti rust)...I dont want to have to do it again
    where can I get it from?
    any idea what length of tubing I will need for the front to back pipes?
    and if anyone has done it, any tips, it looks like a right bitch to get out, is a realy torchered route and shape so all in all I am not looking forward to doing it - but untill I do the truck dont move........ bugga
    Did I mention I have a BLUE one
    Tony

  • #2
    Tony I bought a Brake Pipe kit from the local Motor factors including flaring tool,
    Pipe and an assortment of pipe ends (Sorry can't remember the size) but is was for Swimbo's Mitsy ...
    Hope this helps

    There's always a Payback .... It always takes longer than five minutes !!!!
    Buncefield Burner

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Diezel Weazel View Post
      Tony I bought a Brake Pipe kit from the local Motor factors including flaring tool,
      Pipe and an assortment of pipe ends (Sorry can't remember the size) but is was for Swimbo's Mitsy ...
      Hope this helps

      There's always a Payback .... It always takes longer than five minutes !!!!
      Thanks for the reply....I was begining to think I was invisible!! I know there are these kits but there are different sizes and I dont know wheather it is bore or o/d size they go by. Being as I will have to move the truck to the workshop once I have the bits ( in use untill then) I cant dissconect a pipe to measure the thread or i/d and to see if it is single or double flare...I am hoping someone out there will know - the local factors were no help I think they recruted from Halfrauds
      Thanks again it saved me bumping and looking inpacient!!
      Did I mention I have a BLUE one
      Tony

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      • #4
        Kunifer is the best, won't rust and bends easily. The ends will be flared, but it's not possible to say whether they're single or double without looking. Take the leaking pipe off and see, then make the new one to match.

        An observation; I kind of think that if you have to ask, you really shouldn't be doing this yourself.

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        • #5
          Tony do you want me to post you up a piece of brake pipe with the fitting on for you to measure up
          https://www.facebook.com/groups/henpals/

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by PieRace View Post
            Kunifer is the best, won't rust and bends easily. The ends will be flared, but it's not possible to say whether they're single or double without looking. Take the leaking pipe off and see, then make the new one to match.

            An observation; I kind of think that if you have to ask, you really shouldn't be doing this yourself.
            just to put your mind at rest I have been forming tube for many years, I am a heating engineer, as I said above I could take one off as you sugest but that renders the truck imoveable and as my workshop is in use untill I am ready to do the work I need to be able to get the bits in advance, then having them I can put the truck 'carefully' in the w/shop....copying one stripped off is easy for me as is making sound joints, and I am happy to get the flaring tool to do the business, I just need to know what size pipe, fittings and whether single or double flair tool is needed, I am hoping for feed back on tube types from users as while copper is easy to flare I know it needs more support and it can become brittle and fail, I dont know how easy cupo nickle is to flare as I havnt done it before (but I can recognise a propper flare!) as I said I am confident and competant to make the pipes but do not have the product knowledge to select the best options. searching I have come across copper, kunifer and stainless...pros and cons please guys.
            Rich, if I cant get an answer on here Ill give you a bell....Ta!
            Last edited by fatfires; 14 February 2009, 21:58.
            Did I mention I have a BLUE one
            Tony

            Comment


            • #7
              Cunifer is a copper nickel alloy. As youve already said, straight copper is crap for brake pipes, it work hardens and can split. Work hardening can happen when its used in an environment where it can vibrate or flex.( like a vehicle) After a while this "work" causes it go lose its elasticity and it splits. I dont know what our truck brake pipes are made of but I do know that cunifer is used in making brake pipes. It has the added advantage of being reasonably corrosion resistant too.

              Bogus
              Last edited by Bogus; 14 February 2009, 21:58.
              Сви можемо

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              • #8
                It's a Cupro Nickel alloy, should be available from any motor factors in 25m lengths 3/16" (OD) is the size you want (I think). If you buy a flaring tool, you'll get all the bits you need to do both single and double flares. The ends I cannot help you with.

                When I was raking around before I joined up, I noticed you had a right go at someone, Albannach I think, because he questioned something to do with your trade. Surely you're now being a bit hypocritical by saying it's OK for you to fix your brakes because you're a heating engineer?

                Either way, it doesn't bother me that much. Just an observation I've made.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by PieRace View Post
                  It's a Cupro Nickel alloy, should be available from any motor factors in 25m lengths 3/16" (OD) is the size you want (I think). If you buy a flaring tool, you'll get all the bits you need to do both single and double flares. The ends I cannot help you with.

                  When I was raking around before I joined up, I noticed you had a right go at someone, Albannach I think, because he questioned something to do with your trade. Surely you're now being a bit hypocritical by saying it's OK for you to fix your brakes because you're a heating engineer?

                  Either way, it doesn't bother me that much. Just an observation I've made.
                  Thanks for the info
                  Not at all, My professionalisim and experiance was questioned, which I defended.What I am saying is that I have the knowledge and expertise to work with pipe, from 1/8" to at least 12", carying gases and fluids, I am an old school enginer as it happens I have rebuilt my 3.0L from the bottom up too but there are many aspects of motor engineering that are beyond me ....for those I use experts or take advice
                  Did I mention I have a BLUE one
                  Tony

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                  • #10
                    Tony as a temporary repair (get ya to your workshop)could ya not get a length of pipe from a Motor factors n a pair of male/female connections n splice the pipe between the effected area (like ya would with re-routing wiring)
                    Good Luck

                    There's always a Payback .... It always takes longer than five minutes !!!!
                    Buncefield Burner

                    Comment

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