New Brakes

[Cant Get Right]

I think you mean the other way round. If you use a larger master cylinder and smaller wheel cylinders you will get much less pressure at the wheel cylinder, the other way round ie, smaller master cylinder OR larger wheel cylinders will give greater pressure at the wheels but less travel.
Look at it as a gear ratio for if both cylinders are the same dia ie 20mm the pressure in psi. on the master will be the same as the pressure in psi. on the wheel cylinder.
If you 1/2 the area by reducing the dia on the master and keep the wheel cylinder the same you will get double pressure in psi. on the wheel cylinder.
If you increase the dia on the master to twice the area of the wheel cylinder you will get only 1/2 of the pressure at the wheel cylinder.

If it were me I would possibly change the servo unit to a larger diameter servo unit but keep the hydraulic master piston the same as it is, or put in a brake hydraulic pressure intensifier after the servo unit.
I used to run this system in my race cars with 100% success.

Mike
Hope this helps

Cheers Mate

[Predictable Bob]

Before you start spending a fortune on mods do the simple stuff first:

Pipes
Fluid
Pads

If the performance is still not what you want then start thinking about serious changes but always remember:

It's a 2 ton brick on wheels NOT a race car - it'll NEVER brake like a Mclaren !

[gwh200]

try the braided brake lines first.when you put your feet on the brakes , alot of the effort goes into expanding the old rubber pipes. when you fit braided ones, the brake effort makes its way to the pads and shoes.surfenstein ,woodzie and bushwhacker did this to mine and the difference was amazing

[Cant Get Right]

try the braided brake lines first.when you put your feet on the brakes , alot of the effort goes into expanding the old rubber pipes. when you fit braided ones, the brake effort makes its way to the pads and shoes.surfenstein ,woodzie and bushwhacker did this to mine and the difference was amazing

LOL, finally a post that i understand. thats what i like, someone that puts it in simple terms ie (a lot of effort goes into expanding the old rubber pipes) now i understand the logic in fitting braided brake lines, need to change disks and pads anyway so will all be done in the one shot.
Cheers

[Cant Get Right]

Before you start spending a fortune on mods do the simple stuff first:

Pipes
Fluid
Pads

If the performance is still not what you want then start thinking about serious changes but always remember:

It's a 2 ton brick on wheels NOT a race car - it'll NEVER brake like a Mclaren !

Dont wanna stop instantly, all i want is to feel like when i use the brakes i will stop. All this simple stuff seems like all i need to do rather as brake conversions and all that rubbish i mentioned on me first post. Cheers

[NiftyNev]

You will also notice a difference if you tear down the calipers and rekit them, especially if they've never been done. The seals in them don't last forever.

Nev

[gwh200]

as nev said. i did this for the last mot. i suppose over the course of a year or so you dont really notice a very gradual decline in the braking performance,but once the calipers are refurbed you will notice it.its not a hard job either

[Robmatthews]

a little note from me as well-from experiance,when you fit new disks and pads, and shoes in the back,the brakes will not work for quite a few miles untill they are worn in so dont bolt off down the drive cause you just wont stop!.

[Cant Get Right]

a little note from me as well-from experiance,when you fit new disks and pads, and shoes in the back,the brakes will not work for quite a few miles untill they are worn in so dont bolt off down the drive cause you just wont stop!.

Yup know all that bit about wearing them in, take it you didnt know then

[Albannach]

a little note from me as well-from experiance,when you fit new disks and pads, and shoes in the back,the brakes will not work for quite a few miles untill they are worn in so dont bolt off down the drive cause you just wont stop!.

A quick rub with 40# grit works a treat too. As does pumping the brakes a few times before you go out for a drive.

[da SLUG man]

what about a rear disk coversion??

stick some 3rd gen discs on the front and your old 2nd gen ones on the back!!

[Cant Get Right]

A quick rub with 40# grit works a treat too. As does pumping the brakes a few times before you go out for a drive.

40# Grit???? wits that, sandpaper

[Albannach]

A quick rub with 40# grit works a treat too. As does pumping the brakes a few times before you go out for a drive.

I'm replying to this after reading the thread properly!

The back brakes don't really do much braking on Surfs (or any modern(ish) car!) all the weight is transferred forward when braking, so most of the braking effort is on the front wheels. If you had no brakes after changing the rear shoes, it's because you didn't fit them correctly. A common mistake that amateurs make.

[Albannach]

40# Grit???? wits that, sandpaper

Aye, I suppose sandpaper would do.

[Cant Get Right]

I'm replying to this after reading the thread properly!

The back brakes don't really do much braking on Surfs (or any modern(ish) car!) all the weight is transferred forward when braking, so most of the braking effort is on the front wheels. If you had no brakes after changing the rear shoes, it's because you didn't fit them correctly. A common mistake that amateurs make.

Not me Andy, i aint touched my brakes yet. My handbrake not working at all really but im putting that down to being the clog mud. Gonna just take them to bit and clean them before i buy new rear ones. Still to order new front ones up and braided hoses. Hows u two getting on anyway????