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  • #16
    Why the rad weld ??? Have you a leak as that will cause overheating as well.
    ' You've arrived on a rather special night. It's one of the master's affairs.'

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    • #17
      If you're concerned about your coolant system, get it fully flushed through, drop new coolant in, (green or red), clean the rad thoroughly, replace the 'stat and cap, and check the matrix hoses under the 'stat housing for blockage too. They're sods for perishing/clogging. Also, check the viscous fan is operating correctly.

      With regards to why they go, I still say poor maintenance is the greatest killer. Plus, with the dodgy head design argument, that problem was not present on all 2.4 heads. It was only certain batches, so that argument is complete bollox in a lot of cases. If it's true, why are 3.0's suffering cracked heads too? Sh1t maintenance, same as the older 2.4's, that's why.

      Just service the bugger thoroughly. You should be fine.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Albannach View Post
        Don't have anything like that either, my coolant is full of RadWeld, probably needs a good commercial flush.
        You t1t. Why on earth did you put that in there?

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        • #19
          Oh and another thought is the water pump dry as if it is leaking it's not working properly
          ' You've arrived on a rather special night. It's one of the master's affairs.'

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          • #20
            Originally posted by BioHazard View Post
            Oh and another thought is the water pump dry as if it is leaking it's not working properly
            I knew I'd forgotten to mention something. That also brings checking the harmonic balancer to mind too.

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            • #21
              The more I look into this and the more I think about it; the more I realise the problems seem to be maintenance related (before I got the truck!).

              I've flushed the system twice already, but it still seems to pull old RadWeld from some deep dark places. Going to give it a good 2 stage flush at the weekend, hoses off, radiator out, see how that goes. Failing that, it's a commercial flush after my holidays.
              Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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              • #22
                Originally posted by BioHazard View Post
                Why the rad weld ??? Have you a leak as that will cause overheating as well.
                No leaks that I can see.

                Originally posted by MattF View Post
                You t1t. Why on earth did you put that in there?
                I didn't, I'm an ex mechanic, wouldn't touch the stuff wi a bargepole!

                Originally posted by BioHazard View Post
                Oh and another thought is the water pump dry as if it is leaking it's not working properly
                It's dry, got a new one lying here. Will replace it when I do my timing belt.

                Originally posted by MattF View Post
                I knew I'd forgotten to mention something. That also brings checking the harmonic balancer to mind too.
                Why? What would that do to the cooling system? It'll also be replaced (just cos it'll be removed) when I do my timing belt.
                Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Albannach View Post
                  Why? What would that do to the cooling system? It'll also be replaced (just cos it'll be removed) when I do my timing belt.
                  http://www.hiluxsurf.co.uk/forums/sh...monic+balancer

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                  • #24
                    Then when you have done all that buy a 3.0 {mine}
                    Brian

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                    • #25
                      Have you removed the Block drain plug when you flushed. This is an area that build's up with sediment an rust an radweld, so when you flush a lot of this get's left in. It's a pain to get at behind the injector pump.
                      IT's not how you get in it . IT's how you get out.

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                      • #26
                        Didn't think about that. If the balancer is slipping the water pump aint pumping...
                        Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by new surf View Post
                          Have you removed the Block drain plug when you flushed. This is an area that build's up with sediment an rust an radweld, so when you flush a lot of this get's left in. It's a pain to get at behind the injector pump.
                          Nope, didn't do that... Now on my list!
                          Do you know that, with a 50 character limit, it's

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Albannach View Post
                            Has anyone found out exactly why the 2.4s overheat, but the rest don't?
                            Agree with most of what's been said. There is also some theory about the autos failing more often due to the extra tank in the bottom of the rad. Dumps heat from the tranny into the engine coolant just when you don't want it to.

                            The head on my truck had failed by 85,000km (when I bought it 5 years ago). Have done nearly 190,000km's since (2.8 head). No problems even though I used to spend a lot of time towing a horse box and ponies etc around.

                            I have done some mods to reduce the chance of it going again. In no particular order -

                            Tranny cooler
                            Intercooler
                            Air con system completely removed
                            Perforated plate bash plate
                            Remove all rubber skirts around engine
                            Regular flushing and rad. cleaning, etc
                            Remove lower front bumper
                            Another member of the 'A' team

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