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2" Body Lift, bolts, dimensions, etc

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  • 2" Body Lift, bolts, dimensions, etc

    Hi all, i've decided to do a 2" body lift mainly for the upcoming intercooler fit, the nylon blocks i have had made by a friend at work and are 50mm tall x 50mm diameter, 10 of, with, at the moment a 10mm hole down the middle, no problems there.

    The 4 radiator drop brackets 85mm x 35mm, but what size holes and how thick? 2mm? do i weld nuts on the back to make life easier and what size nuts?

    Bumper/Bull bar drop brackets, i've seen on the tech sit that they have been done with a small drom bracket on one bolt, surly both bolts should be refitted, would a 150mm x 100mm 5mm thick plate be better?

    And finally, mounting bolts, i have in my posetion quite a few m14 fin thread 130mm engine mounting bolts, could these be utalised or am i better off with m10, the only m10 i have is stainless steel threaded bar, would that do? also found some m12 x 120mm high tensile

    Sorry but i'm a tight git and dont like buying what i have or could use
    Last edited by roylittle0; 16 April 2008, 17:42.
    Roy
    When ya stop having fun, Ya start getting old

  • #2
    Leave the rad, just remove the bottom half of the shroud.

    Take off your bumper and you'll see 2 bolts either side of the centre cross member. The plate needs to mimic this; 2 holes at the bottom so you can bolt onto the cross member, 2 bolts at the top to fix to the bumper. Trim bumper so the plate fits (take 2 'V' cuts out of it).

    Use the back 4 bolts in the front 4 fixings. I used 6 nr M10x160mm to finish, the bonus with threaded bar is the thread doesn't run out! Re-use washers.
    Wax on, wax off

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    • #3
      you can leave the rad on the 3l but not on the 2.4's.You will need to drop the rad in the 2.4 so you will need the rad drop brackets also
      https://www.facebook.com/groups/henpals/

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      • #4
        If I can remember correctly the bolts you need are
        2 x 130 x 10mm for the front
        4 x 150 x 10 mm for the next 4 back from the front
        4 x 160 x 10 mm for the back 4
        The rad drop brackets I used to make from 3mm sheet 75mm long x 20mm wide with hole centres of 50mm with an 8mm hole, one of these holes I welded a 20mm long 8mm stud in. when you come to fit the rad brackets bolt them on using the original bolts and then fit the rad on to the studs.

        The bumper brackets I just used a piece of 3mm sheet about 90mm x 75mm and put 4 13mm holes in it at the correct spacing for the bumper fixings(I can't remember what these are of the top of my head)

        Hope all this helps and makes sense
        I'm a custard donut monster

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        • #5
          Thanks for the input guy's, now i can start making some more bits, wasn't to sure if stainless steel would be suitable as it has a tendancey to shear due to its brittleness, i want to try and use the high tensile (11) engine mounting bolts,

          As im doing bits and bobs around the truch i am replacing all the bolts with new galvanised ones so thats why i wanted to know sizes, any more info or advice greatly aprecited.
          Roy
          When ya stop having fun, Ya start getting old

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          • #6
            Originally posted by stormforce View Post
            you can leave the rad on the 3l but not on the 2.4's.You will need to drop the rad in the 2.4 so you will need the rad drop brackets also


            Are the drop brackets for the 3L the same as the 2.4, if so I've got the drop brackets here that you can have.
            Wax on, wax off

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Fordy View Post


              Are the drop brackets for the 3L the same as the 2.4, if so I've got the drop brackets here that you can have.
              yea they will be the same brackets.its just that the 3l has the rad cap on the rad whereas the 2.4 don't and thats why you can leave the 3l rad where it is and remove the lower half of the rad shroud
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              • #8
                Originally posted by stormforce View Post
                yea they will be the same brackets.its just that the 3l has the rad cap on the rad whereas the 2.4 don't and thats why you can leave the 3l rad where it is and remove the lower half of the rad shroud


                Umm, it's the other way 'round Rich, the 3.0 rad needs to be dropped, the 2.4 doesn't.




                isn't it?

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by BUSHWHACKER View Post
                  Umm, it's the other way 'round Rich, the 3.0 rad needs to be dropped, the 2.4 doesn't.




                  isn't it?
                  my 3l and the bullet have got the rads left in the standard position Vince and the lower shroud taken off.I did lower my rad when the lifts were done originally but then put the rad back up where it was originally.
                  I thought because the rad cap was on the rad on the 3.0l then it could stay where it was but on the 2.4 because the rad cap is on the thermostat housing then the rad would be higher when a body lift has been done as the rad is bolted to the body,and thats why the 2.4 needs to be lowered
                  https://www.facebook.com/groups/henpals/

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by stormforce View Post
                    my 3l and the bullet have got the rads left in the standard position Vince and the lower shroud taken off.I did lower my rad when the lifts were done originally but then put the rad back up where it was originally.
                    I thought because the rad cap was on the rad on the 3.0l then it could stay where it was but on the 2.4 because the rad cap is on the thermostat housing then the rad would be higher when a body lift has been done as the rad is bolted to the body,and thats why the 2.4 needs to be lowered
                    Oh, OK. It's just that when we did Apache's bodylift, the rad cap would have touched the bonnet if we hadn't lowered lowered the rad.

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                    • #11
                      i suppose if the truck has had an aftermarket rad fitted then that could be the reason for lowering Andie's rad.
                      I'm not questioning what you say Vince oh knowledgeable one as you know more about these trucks then me, so really the only way to know if the rad needs lowering is to do the lifts and then lower the bonnet and see if it catches the rad cap or not then you'll know for for sure yourself.
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                      • #12
                        [QUOTE=stormforce;437706]i suppose if the truck has had an aftermarket rad fitted then that could be the reason for lowering Andie's rad.QUOTE]

                        Ah yes, now that you mention it, that was the reason we lowered it.





                        as you were.........

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                        • #13
                          we all learn something new every day don't we.The thouught of the after market rad only came to me as i was typing it...lol
                          So anyone who is doing the body lift just check the clearance from the rad cap when the bonnet is closed and if neccesary lower the rad
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                          • #14
                            Might be a stupid question but why would lifting the body affect the bonnet!! surley the rad and bonnet are lifted the same ammount? as the rad is fixed to the body!

                            My 2.4 needed the rad dropping to remove all the air out the system!!

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by hiroler View Post
                              Might be a stupid question but why would lifting the body affect the bonnet!! surley the rad and bonnet are lifted the same ammount? as the rad is fixed to the body!

                              My 2.4 needed the rad dropping to remove all the air out the system!!
                              that is a very good question.if the bonnet closed alright before hand then it will close or should close alright after the lift.Unless you fit an aftermarket rad at the time of doing the lift then just check the gap before dropping the bonnet
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