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  • #16
    Yeah, thats right, but there's no need to run 4 wires all of the way. Just parallel two up and loop them across the lights.

    Also, you'll need a switch between your main beam circuit and the relay, just so you can stop the rooflights coming on on the road. plod might take a dim view, but they're useful for letting BMW drivers know they've left their full beam on.

    <edit> Like this...



    Same wiring as for +ve for ground side.
    Last edited by Apache; 24 January 2008, 09:46.
    Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Apache View Post
      Yeah, thats right, but there's no need to run 4 wires all of the way. Just parallel two up and loop them across the lights.

      Also, you'll need a switch between your main beam circuit and the relay, just so you can stop the rooflights coming on on the road. plod might take a dim view, but they're useful for letting BMW drivers know they've left their full beam on.
      What's the best way to parallel them?? Using one of those spade connectors with the spade and socket or using a terminal block?

      And when I had just 55W bulbs in - I lit the road up on the way to Wales for a chap in a BMW who thought my dipped beam was too bright......bless - I think his eyes are starting to work again now....
      Too old to care, young enough to remember

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      • #18
        Just twist the two together and solder direct to the relay terminal. Better connection that way. You'll struggle to get all of that wire into a crimp connection. You can do the same at the lamps etc. Just pop some heatshrink over the bare terminals.
        Cutting steps in the roof of the world

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        • #19
          You do seem to be making a pigs ear out of this job

          I ran 4 spots (with built in side lights) on the home made roof bar on my old Land Rover…. Just had three wires going to the roof, an earth, a live for the main beams (switched from a fused relay linked to the headlamp high beam feed) and a live to feed the park/side lights. Power was taken from the battery in the same way you would run powerful audio amps.

          I found it very strait forward…. but then again I did totally rewire the whole Land Rover during the rebuild.

          Oh yes and they certainly stopped other drivers pulling out of little country lanes in front of you
          Last edited by PDR; 24 January 2008, 10:11.
          Mine WAS a 150 bhp V6 and ran on PETROL

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