Veg Oil 100% System Plans, Cheap And Simple

[POPEYE]

Good drawing Carl, i printed it for future ref, hope thats ok i had a good idea of what i intended doing although i aint looked at obtaining a three port valve or the details of connections etc yet, some work to do on the tank i got off ebay, picked up yesterday, i did'nt want one in the load area either, there's not enough room as it is let alone sticking a fricking great tank in there, also theres the safty aspect, it might not be as imflamable as petrol but unless it firmly fixed down it'll shoot forward in a good head on shunt, dont fancy haveing that siting behind me,

[The Lang-Shankit Scunner]

Good lad, at least someone agrees with me. If you want any further advice, just pm me or email me. What people dont realise is that i have fitted alot of these for friends, non profit and it works well.

You can get the valve off ebay about £50 usually replacement for an old landrover, cos they used to switch over fuels too. Also the heat exchangers are donye ebay too, i think theres a guy making them for £15, its a tube for coolant with a smaller tube inside it for veg, very good idea, just two ports at each end.

[The Lang-Shankit Scunner]

Help yourselves to print offs if you want

[POPEYE]

Cheer's carl, ok first test "fit" of me defender tank looks good, should be quite easy to fit, as andy said the holes in the seam front and back are'nt man enough to carry the weight of a full tank but with some threaded rod through the tow bar and spacers the tank will sit on these, same thing at the front, these will stop the tank wiggleing about, i need some decent size flat bar to make a pair of support straps to carry the weight, bolted betreen the tow bar and chassi x member, some rubber strip and adhesive and it should'nt go far, the line aint bad either it dose'nt hang down too much, although i'll prob still make a bash plate for it, but first i have to cut a 5" hole in the top
i'll worry about the tech stuff a bit later on carl, switching, connections, etc, although i was wondering if a three port valve from a central heating (old convensional system) would work, also i have a heat exchanger from a combi i was going to use, when i get 5 minuits i'll draw the basics of it and see what ya think,

[The Lang-Shankit Scunner]

Looks good man, and what a chassis!!!!!!! The valve should work as long as youve got 2 inputs and only one out. So you can switch between the two sources of fuel. Whenputting in a heat exchanger, make sure the fuel passes the opposite direction to the coolant, works better.

Looking good so far, keep me updated and if i can help any just let me know, im on most nights here and there. Think youve got the hang though, youll have some range out of your diesel tank, itll last for months.

Cheers mate

[ssray]

The main problem with most valves is the seals, they need to be vitron anything else will give up the ghost fairly quickly.

also avoid 6port pollacks mine failed after 5mths and 10k miles.

I use a s/h greasecar valve from evilbay(£35) and a large bore telecamit valve on the return(smaller bore than greasecar one) from here http://www.biotuning.co.uk/ShopValves.htm

I am also thinking of copying this guy with the swirl tank idea http://www.bjblaster.com/ it looks like a flipping good idea and would mean no watering down of svo during the winter.
Ray

[POPEYE]

Carl! This is what i had in mind although i altered the return part so it's the same as yours, i take it it's ok to link (tee) it back in to the feed to the pump?
That would solve the problem as i was'nt sure how to sort out two returns (diesel or veg) depending on which one i was running on at the time, i'm intending to use the water pump i already fitted which was going to help push coolant round the second rad (that was fitted where the air con one used to be) but i've since removed it and plumbed it back to original, i was'nt happy with the hose connectors i used, no hose ridge on em, and i could see em giveing me problems, the pump will now push coolant to the rear, through a heat exchanger, fuel pump heater jacket, and on to the heater coil in the tank, on its return i'm running it through a small intercooler rad to help loose some heat which i hope will help with my high running temps, averages around 90c on a good run, basicly tho it's the same as your idea i guess,

Ray! some good links there, aint had time yet to read em throughly, is it the
larger (bore) telecamit there way valve your useing? and wots a s/h greasecar valve? (i know nowt) swirl tank!!!! i'll have to have a read of that one, sounds like a mixing thing,


This one

[The Lang-Shankit Scunner]

That looks like a very reliable system there mate. The tank coil itself will be a massive boon in the winter, and rerouting the cooling system is a good idea. For running temps maybe a turbo intercooler may be a good idea, im in the process myself as this is supposed to reduce block temp dramatically when under load.

That valve should do the trick, but keep eye on it as sometimes they need a whack when theyre older as they can stick, but regular use should be fine i would think.

Let me know how you get on and keep me posted, oh and keep those batteries tip top with using that much lecky.

Cheers

[POPEYE]

I already have an intercooler Carl and it's still running hot, maybe running hotter because of the mods, ie:- intercooler, quater turn on the compensator screw, 2mm washers behind the dump gate, etc, i dont know!! anyway a small rad underneath should'nt hurt, with a sort of scoop to channel air up through it,

Checked through the BJ blaster link last night, wot a bloke!! excellent info there, and humorious with it, printed out most of it and run out of ink

[ssray]

Hi popeye, Thats the one, greasecar are based in the states-it bigger internally so i use on the inlet side of the IP and the telacmit one on the return,http://www.greasecar.com/

I`m just looking at making a swirl tank and using a pump to fill it, the return from the IP goes into it aswell so faster heating of your wvo/svo

Ray

[POPEYE]

Hi popeye, Thats the one, greasecar are based in the states-it bigger internally so i use on the inlet side of the IP and the telacmit one on the return,http://www.greasecar.com/

I`m just looking at making a swirl tank and using a pump to fill it, the return from the IP goes into it aswell so faster heating of your wvo/svo

Ray

Yeah it looks straight forward to make, i had visions of a tank with a paddle in it the returns were the thing that had me stumped, you reccon Carls idea of teeing it back to the inlet side is ok?
as i'm going to be running on two tank system i could se me contaminating both tanks, but his was it goes back to the pump, so any "mix would be burnt off an a couple of minuits,
clever guy that, did you see the bowser he made? working trigger and all! just like the filling station ones, liked the twin tub filtering thing