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Laying ceramic floor tiles

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  • #46
    www.amcbs.webeden.co.uk www.xjrestorations.co.uk

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    • #47
      What gets me is that the guy laid a block and beam floor all the way through down stairs and then put a susspended joist and chipboard floor above it !! I was thinking maybe to just lay a concrete floor ontop of block and beam , but it would be 6" thick to get back upto floor level .
      Rick...Member of 1st Gen club. ONE LIFE ... GET ONE !!

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      • #48
        Originally posted by Vagrant No2
        What gets me is that the guy laid a block and beam floor all the way through down stairs and then put a susspended joist and chipboard floor above it !! I was thinking maybe to just lay a concrete floor ontop of block and beam , but it would be 6" thick to get back upto floor level .

        Cople of inches of insulation, then the under floor heating, bit of screed and on with the tiling. Bish, Bash, and indeed, bosh.
        it's in me shed, mate.

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        • #49
          Originally posted by Vagrant No2
          What gets me is that the guy laid a block and beam floor all the way through down stairs and then put a susspended joist and chipboard floor above it !! I was thinking maybe to just lay a concrete floor ontop of block and beam , but it would be 6" thick to get back upto floor level .
          Bulk it out with Expanded polystyrene .........what do you think creates the void in motorway bridges ............under tension it's useless....but when under compression it's great.


          Try a company called cordek at billingshurst sussex they used to make frames to pour concrete on



          Oppps looks different since i worked for them.......



          http://www.cordek.com/index.cfm?site...age=p-homepage
          Last edited by Woodzie; 7 September 2007, 08:16.
          www.daemon4x4.org

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          • #50
            Originally posted by Chillitt
            Cople of inches of insulation, then the under floor heating, bit of screed and on with the tiling. Bish, Bash, and indeed, bosh.
            Cor not arf wish I had that here that is exactly what I would do, I have just installed an underfloor system in a granny flat - first one, all the design work was done for me and the backup was superb, you can get small packs suitable for conservatorys or extensions as well
            Did I mention I have a BLUE one
            Tony

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            • #51
              Update.
              3/4" ply delivered today , 8' x 4' sheets . Boy these are heavy ! These had better not bow and buckle like the chipboard.
              I fitted down lighters in the ceiling last week and the joists in upstairs floor are 300mm spaced so hope down stairs is the same , so should be plenty strong enough.Just need to find why the floor is so uneven.
              Wish me luck.
              Rick...Member of 1st Gen club. ONE LIFE ... GET ONE !!

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              • #52
                Originally posted by Vagrant No2
                Update.
                3/4" ply delivered today , 8' x 4' sheets . Boy these are heavy ! These had better not bow and buckle like the chipboard.
                I fitted down lighters in the ceiling last week and the joists in upstairs floor are 300mm spaced so hope down stairs is the same , so should be plenty strong enough.Just need to find why the floor is so uneven.
                Wish me luck.
                GOOD LUCK
                Tim
                Break It,Fix It,Repeat,Break It,Fix It,Repeat

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                • #53
                  Originally posted by madcampbell
                  It is in fact very easy to use the jig if you are used to "wood work" all you do is clamp it in place then follow the template...so long as you measures right and don't get a blunt one...

                  MArk

                  Not True!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

                  If you dont know how to set the jig up to compensate for NON 90 degree corners then you end up with a perfect Masons Mitre (the correct name for the joint btw) but one length of worktop wont be touching the wall all the way along or the two ends nearest the mitre wont touch the walls (depending on wether the corner is less or more than 90 degrees)

                  Leave it to someone who knows how!
                  It shouldn't be too expensive to get someone just to do the worktops for you.
                  Alan
                  www.amcbs.webeden.co.uk www.xjrestorations.co.uk

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                  • #54
                    a good carpenter with a worktop jig and router will do it for you but expect to pay about £50.00 per joint ,also you will need 3 worktop joint bolts per corner.

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                    • #55
                      Originally posted by soramad
                      a good carpenter with a worktop jig and router will do it for you but expect to pay about £50.00 per joint ,also you will need 3 worktop joint bolts per corner.

                      Agreed!!
                      www.amcbs.webeden.co.uk www.xjrestorations.co.uk

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                      • #56
                        just to set the record straight it is possible to tile directly onto chipboard provided it is the water resistant type (green), plywood can also be used 19mm min (correct grade) as like chipboard it is inert and any expansion or contraction is negligable but it is imperative that the correct adhesive is used for the type of surface.

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                        • #57
                          I had a problem with the limestone floor tiles in my lifts cracking. I installed Amtico tiles. These are flexible and will do the trick. They are not cheap Vinyl.

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                          • #58
                            Originally posted by tintin
                            Agreed!!
                            so u do kitchens............hmmmmmmmmm mm

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                            • #59
                              Originally posted by Vagrant No2
                              Update.
                              3/4" ply delivered today , 8' x 4' sheets . Boy these are heavy ! These had better not bow and buckle like the chipboard.
                              I fitted down lighters in the ceiling last week and the joists in upstairs floor are 300mm spaced so hope down stairs is the same , so should be plenty strong enough.Just need to find why the floor is so uneven.
                              Wish me luck.
                              hope u put the fire retardant hoods on the lights?

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                              • #60
                                no need for the hoods! just put fire retard lights, save u self £6 per light.

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