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I have fitted a few kitchens in the last years . But now everyone fits these fancy cut worktops wiv a fancy cut in the corners . I can hire the router jig from Travis Perkins to do it , but would rather pay a pro to do the worktops as that is a very obvious part of the finish . Nothing worse then a nice kitchen with butchered worktops !!
I think Max is trying to sell you affordable granite worktops - wish I'd known him when I did ours!
Oh, and Rick, did you know a brewery are using your avatar on a beer called 'little green man'?
I have fitted a few kitchens in the last years . But now everyone fits these fancy cut worktops wiv a fancy cut in the corners . I can hire the router jig from Travis Perkins to do it , but would rather pay a pro to do the worktops as that is a very obvious part of the finish . Nothing worse then a nice kitchen with butchered worktops !!
It is in fact very easy to use the jig if you are used to "wood work" all you do is clamp it in place then follow the template...so long as you measures right and don't get a blunt one...
It is in fact very easy to use the jig if you are used to "wood work" all you do is clamp it in place then follow the template...so long as you measues right and don't get a blunt one...
MArk
I may try on a piece of the old worktop before doing the new ones . £15 to hire the jig is cheap . £85 +vat to buy it .
Rick...Member of 1st Gen club. ONE LIFE ... GET ONE !!
I may try on a piece of the old worktop before doing the new ones . £15 to hire the jig is cheap . £85 +vat to buy it .
Yep that's what I did when I did my mum's kitchen, you will be suprised how easy it is. I actually cut the joint then cut then worktop to lenght so if I messed up I could cut the joint again.
rick fix your ply as i said before every 12" paint with pva mix then see how much movement you get ,if your beams are fine i can assure that it will be a perfect base for tiling ,
use flexi grout do not let dry before cleaning ,eh andy ??clean tiles off after grouting then once that is done you can go over your grout lines with bit of hose or whatever you choose , then when dry clean off with old towel or similar ,
have used this method before and never have had a prob
Well I got to remove old kitchen first , then lift floor to relocate a radiator, and then fit the new floor .
Don't mean to Rub it in Rick but we now finished renovating the Dinning Room floor (real wood floor) in the dinning room, better than when ya last saw it !!! Lovelly Jubbly
Good Luck wiv yours M8
There's always a Payback .... Ya just don't see em Comin !!!!
I went nearly feckin mental trying to work with flexi grout a few weeks ago as the assembled throng know.
I REEEEEALLY dont envy you mate! I laid mine on 3/4" Marine Ply with flexi adhesive (sticky as fcuk) and flexi grout (stickier than the stickiest fcuk and a bitch to work with!)
I WILL NEVER LAY TILES ON A WOODEN FLOOR EVER EVER AGAIN!!!!
Yeah!! been there, me nither, did all the right things and i'm forever going back over it grouteing, a real ba$tard, all the ground floor was good as gold, but there concrete floors,
rick get rid of the chipboard for marine ply it costs more but will last, and slap some self levelling screed over that and then tile away.
worked well for me in one of my old abodes mate.
Used to do the prep work for various tilers including a mob that done all the Maccy D work ...on wood floors their spec was cover with 3/8 ply screwed every 6" then 2 coats of primer.
Have to agree with Dave D about screwing every 6". If you take the chipboard up (recomended) Lay 18mm ply (doesn't have to be marine ply as WBP will do the job if you screw every 6") Make sure there are no unsupported edges of ply longer than 400mm.
Use a flexible adhesive with a notched trowel at 10mm x 10mm.
When using flexi-grout only mix enough to do about a square metre at a time, and make sure you wash the bulk of it off the tiles within ten minutes!
Hope this helps
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